separating bearing carrier from T/A
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 2
From: Boise ID
separating bearing carrier from T/A
I'm in the process of redoing my '81's rear suspension & wheel bearings, and have gotten the driver's side disassembled mostly.
I'm having trouble separating the bearing carrier from the T/A. I've taken the castle nut & Ujoint flange from the inside, and have removed the parking brake shoes & the 4- 9/16" nuts from under there. I *think* I should be able to pull the carrier assembly off now, but I can't.
Either it can't be done this way, or something's rusted together.
Am I missing something? or should I just apply targeted impacts to loosen it? I'm thinking a hammer on a 2x4 or something.
Thanks!!
Dan
I'm having trouble separating the bearing carrier from the T/A. I've taken the castle nut & Ujoint flange from the inside, and have removed the parking brake shoes & the 4- 9/16" nuts from under there. I *think* I should be able to pull the carrier assembly off now, but I can't.
Either it can't be done this way, or something's rusted together.
Am I missing something? or should I just apply targeted impacts to loosen it? I'm thinking a hammer on a 2x4 or something.
Thanks!!
Dan
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Remove the spindle flange that encases the splines of the spindle and then you should see the inner bearing. You have already removed the four nuts holding the entire assembly to the arm, so rust must be holding the assembly to the arm. Keep trying, it should separate. The area where the arm joins to the bearing housing has a circle cut in it and it protrudes inside the trailing arm. Sometimes it rust welds from the hole in the trailing arm to the bearing support - use some PB blaster or a little heat. Use PB blaster to get inside the 4 stud holes (near the parking brakes) as well. I wish I had some pictures, but my arms are already assembled
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 233
Likes: 41
From: Simpsonville SC
I just replaced my bearing assembly today for the 1st. time and had the same problem. After removing the 4 nuts and flange, I could not get the bearing support to separate from the TA. What ending up doing the trick for me was to take a punch and give each of the (4) bearing support studs a few good whacks and a few shots of PB. This caused it to separate enough to get a screw driver between the bearing support and TA. It didn't take long. Now, the lower shock mount, that's a different story!!! 
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I had the same problem. Van Steel posted the way they do it when I asked. douse the 4 bolts and area where they go through the TA w/ PB Blaster. Put the arms of the bearing carrier in a vise as close as you can get to the TA. Hit the reenforced area of the TA near the front bolts of the 4 bolt layout with a BFH using a block of wood to access. It will pop right off.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 2
From: Boise ID
Thanks for the responses guys.
63mako, that did the trick. I was hoping to not remove the T/As, but in for a penny, in for a pound. Fortunately, the T/As came out real easy. 
Now I need to figure out how to press the spindles out.
Thanks again!!
Dan
63mako, that did the trick. I was hoping to not remove the T/As, but in for a penny, in for a pound. Fortunately, the T/As came out real easy.
Now I need to figure out how to press the spindles out.
Thanks again!!
Dan
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Listen to Gary - buy yourself a spindle knocker so you don't ruin the spindle. If it doesn't pop out when using a sledge hammer, then you should use a press - but try hammering out the spindle first.
