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Converting Air Conditioner Conversion (Freon)

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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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Rick Church
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Default Converting Air Conditioner Conversion (Freon)

My 71 air conditioner is running on the original freon system. What all is envolved with converting to the new a/c coolant? Do any new parts have to be inistalled? What is a "ball park" figure for the cost to conversion?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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at minimum you will have to change compressor and dryer. then the rest of the system flushed, alot of technicians will suggest replacing the condensor coil,that's the coil in front of your radiator if i were you i would stick with freon since now atleast in my area you can find it reasonably priced compared to 10 yrs ago. you may have to search a/c specialists to get a decent price but thier are people who buy it in bulk and its much cheaper that way than supposedly the 1lb. cans. you may not be able to find it in your area but i now regret swapping my truck over after finding this out just last summer
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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I just changed the fittings, vacuumed out the entire system, reloaded with oil and R134. Blew ice cold and lasted several seasons until I sold it. Probably still blowing cold.

Maybe not what some would recommend, but it was cheap and worked. I talked to many others who did the same thing with no problems.
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Do a search on my username.....I did a decently detailed post on what I did to make mine work....all for around $350......If once you've read that you need more help...pm me and i'll answer any questions you might have.....
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 07:31 AM
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I don't believe there is any need to change the compressor. Just the oil in it has to be drained and replaced with that compatible with 134A refrigerant. I would also suggest changing the hoses and of course, the dryer along with the other recommendations above.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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If the system is in good shape use a product called Duracool. It has the same cooling efficience as the orginal Freon, it is eviromental safe, the molecules are larger so they don't leak out as much. All that is required is a good vacum of the system then fill with Duracool. I had mine done last year, didn't change anything and it is as cold as the orginal. Cost me $86 for labour and $50 in parts. Check their website http://www.duracool.com/
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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For a 71, you should flush the entire system. The type of oil used with r12 is not compatible with the r134 refrigerant and according to the AC gurus a trace of the old oil can lead to serious issues. Change the fittings. Replacing hoses and O ring seals is highly recommended. Change the drier. Have your POA valve recalibrated for 134 (you can do it yourself).
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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Why do you want to change it and open up a can of worms? If it's working OK I'd leave it alone, if not, fix it and reinstall R-12. It's widely available and the local A/C guy told me last summer the cost is actually coming down because nobody uses it any more.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA
I just changed the fittings, vacuumed out the entire system, reloaded with oil and R134. Blew ice cold and lasted several seasons until I sold it. Probably still blowing cold.

Maybe not what some would recommend, but it was cheap and worked. I talked to many others who did the same thing with no problems.
I do a lot of conversions and each one is different. One thing that I have found is that the old R-12 hoses work just fine. It seems that the hoses get 'saturated' with oil/refrigerant and that acts as a barrier, much like the liner that comes in the new hoses. However, if the have a leak due to age or damage, I replace them with barrier hose. I always change the receiver/dryer unless I get a customer that has to keep it original (the new ones are a different shape). Besides draining as much oil out as possible, I don't mess around with the rest of except to change all the o-rings, and that's more to cover me than anything. After that, I just use oil that is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a, usually Ester 100, and fire it up. Every once in a while I have to adjust the POA valve, but it's rare.

Hans
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