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Paint Stripping Gouges

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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 08:37 PM
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Default Paint Stripping Gouges

What has been used to repair the gouges from razor blade paint
stripping? My local paint supplier told me to use this product.
Evercoat metal glaze. It is a 2 part glazing. He said it doesn't shrink.
Man, this s**t works like bondo. Any help please ?

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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:01 PM
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The Evercoat glaze is good stuff, but I have never used it on bare fiberglass before...anyone? If you sprayed a coat of expoxy first, it should definitely be ok.What are you having issues with, it setting up too quickly?
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:03 PM
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they have a fiberglas product i would recommend....there are two actually, the first is like a fiberglas with minute ground up fiberglas in it, just add the hardener. it's about $25 qt. and it is good for fiberglas repair and fully compatible. once you've filled the worst of it and sanded and there are blemishes. there is a spray type product you spray on "with a suitable spray gun" and it is heavy like a filler..it saves alot of manual work using this product to get out very minor blemishes.
I apologize but i don't remember the name of either product at the moment but you can get both from your local automotive paint store or warehouse. If you go there and speak to a representative they will point you to it..they are both specifically for fiberglas applications and no neither of the products are gel coat.
I wanna say the spray on product is called high build and the filler i used had a corvette on the can...if somoene else is painting it i would let them buy the spray on high build and apply during final prep coats. It might be a good idea to open the razor gouges up a little with a file or similar tool to ensure you get complete penetration and fill of the gouges and not get air voids which could cause it to blister in the future
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981Z06Vette
The Evercoat glaze is good stuff, but I have never used it on bare fiberglass before...anyone? If you sprayed a coat of expoxy first, it should definitely be ok.What are you having issues with, it setting up too quickly?
apply it to the area. can't get a nice thin coat. plus it sands like bondo.
Thanks for help.
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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I think the product Thrilher was referring to is probably SlickSand, which I beleive is also made by Evercoat. I'm using a similar producst by Spies-Hecker; they call it Spray Poly.

If you are putting the putty on too thick, you may want to use a little more force with the spreader, or maybe even use a razor blade as a spreader if you're talking about really small gouges. Getting smooth filler application is something that comes with experience.
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 11:18 PM
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I used to work in a shop that built concept cars for the major automakers in the Detroit area (one in the same...the concept cars you see in the auto shows...Cadillac 16, original Ford GT concept, original T-Bird concept, just to name a very few). These cars are nothing more than fiberglass that we pull off of clay models, usually prrovided by the design houses of the automakers. Anyways, regardless of that...

We used metal glaze exclusively for smaller, pin hole type repairs. The consistancy of it (its real thin and flows well, depending on how "hot" you mix it up) makes it invaluable for these types of repairs. For larger repairs, I would recommend a product called Duraglass...I believe it was made by the same company that makes Evercoat. Speaking of which, Evercoat is also a great product for filling. It all depends on what you're doing. Having all three on hand and readily available, I'd use Duraglass for larger, more structural repairs, Metal Glaze for pin holes and smaller fill-ins such as those, and an Evercoat-type product for skim coats and final filler.

By the way, as is the case with any paint job, SURFACE prep is key to any repair work you do to your Vette. If you're having a problem with the way something is sanding ("sanding like bondo"), don't forget that you need to rough the surface good to promote good adhesion. Also, don't apply over dirt or dust...make sure the surface is clean and free of debris. Lastly, take your time...experiment with different amounts of hardeners and don't over do it. If you find you don't have enough time with your mix, use less. If it NEVER seems to cook off, use more.

I know I went a bit outside the scope of the question but once I get started, its hard to quit. Hope that helps some and feel free to PM me with any additional questions. As a disclaimer, I have not painted my Vette but I did spend a lot of days of long hours working with fiberglass.
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