Power Window Problem
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,062
Likes: 602
From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Power Window Problem
Im having problems with my power window driver side.
when it goes up. it stops about 2 inches from th top and i have to push it to the front to close all the way.. plus the windows wiggles back and forth.......i have a video to kind of show whats up....
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when it goes up. it stops about 2 inches from th top and i have to push it to the front to close all the way.. plus the windows wiggles back and forth.......i have a video to kind of show whats up....
[IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][/IMG]
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
Had a similar problem recently. Re did both doors, pulling the tracks, motor and regulator. Cleaned all the old grease, re-greased with white lithium. Passenger side works great. Am still "tweaking" with the drivers side alignment.
The two bolts in the center area of your door panel control the front to back adjustment to get it parallel-ness to the A & B pillar (front to back tilt). The bolts along the top of the door control the track/window vertical (in & out) alignment.
If you search, there is some great info and a pic of the inner door anatomy that is really helpful.
The two bolts in the center area of your door panel control the front to back adjustment to get it parallel-ness to the A & B pillar (front to back tilt). The bolts along the top of the door control the track/window vertical (in & out) alignment.
If you search, there is some great info and a pic of the inner door anatomy that is really helpful.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 1
Here's the tutorial:
1980 with Power windows...
Near the top of the travel on the PW, I can hear the motor whirrling & the chatter of loose gears/teeth spinning... window doesn't go all the way up
So, I'm doing the correct CF method of reading the AIM & mechanics book. But in neither of these does it show how/what the h#ll to do when the gear strips out and the power window doesn't go up all the way.
The power wndw assy. is held onto the INSIDE of the door panel with no access holes (who the heII thought of that at GM 4th floor???) to take the motor out/adjust window mechanisms. The only way to have any type of access is rivited from the factory on the inside of the enclosed door panel Arrrrgh....Deep breath here
WHAT'S HAPPENING?
I can hear the motor working just fine but have a hunch that the teeth have been stripped out near the top of the assy.
1980 Power windor repair. Stripped Gear.
WOW!!! This was by far the most difficult of any Vette repairs or mods...
Since the teeth on the regulator gear were slightly stripped, I went ahead to Ecklers and bought the "Regulator Gear Repair kit" ($34) Item# 27487 http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...7&dept_id=1673
and a new PW motor Gear ($20) Item# 34402 . http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1160
First: Lifted the window by hand to the fully raised position & stuck in old sticks & paint can stirring sticks to force (wedge) the window in the up position.
1. I took off the int. door panel
2. Took off the PW Motor cover panel (thin tin cover)
3. Used 3/8 wrench to loosen the three bolts which hold the PW motor to base plate. (loosen, not removed)
4. Un-hook the connection cable to the PW motor (old brittle plastic, nice & easy here)
5. fully removed the three bolts mentioned (step #3) above from the motor base plate, removed the PW motor from the door (you have to wiggle & pry that little thing out of there).
6. Lay the PW motor assy. on the ground and pull the plastic/metal gear out of the socket. Took off the old PW gear, cleaned the area well, added new grease to the gears & installed the new PW motor gear wheel. (Ecklers part # listed above)
7. Once again...I DID NOT REMOVE WINDOW ASSY TO REPAIR THE GEARS. I just force the window in the raised position via sticks)
8. I DID bore out the three aluminum rivets.
Once the whole assy was freed from the three rivets I could slide the regulator gears towards the little opening in the door compartment so I could get better acces to this.
9. I used the new regulator repair gear as a template. Using a black sharpie marker to mark where the three holes should go.
10. Drilled 3 holes into the original regulator gear at the three indicated black sharpie spots (as indicated in step 9).
11. screwed the new regulator repair gear into the three freshly drilled holes. I put the new regulator repair gear INFRONT of the old one (meaning: the side closest to the interior. NOT the outside of the gear)
Tighten it up well, making sure that the new gear teeth are flush with the old worn gear teeth.
12. NEW Gear teeth!
13. Pushed like mad for 20 minutes trying to align the assy back into the holes where the factory rivets were. Fortunately wife came in and put bolt in the hole to at least match one up.
THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB at this point.
14. installed the other two bolts (where the rivets used to be) & tightened it down well. Locking washers here as I am sure as H#LL NOT going to want to do this job again!
15. Re-installed PW motor into base plate, tightened the three bolts secure.
16. Buttoned it all back up.
17. GOOD TO GO!
This was by far the most confusing & "interesting" of all my Vette adventures.
I hope that the passenger side NEVER goes out. If it does, I might send it to a body shop and pay someone to do it!!!
Nah' probably not, it wasn't that hard...Well, yes, it was that hard. but, not really. The satisfaction came from successfully repairing this myself & sweating over it.
I hope this helps someone who has this same problem down the road.
Please PM me and if you're stuck I can assist!
Thanks again to jdp6000 (from the CAC) for his valuable help and Moosie on this!
Andy
1980 with Power windows...
Near the top of the travel on the PW, I can hear the motor whirrling & the chatter of loose gears/teeth spinning... window doesn't go all the way up
So, I'm doing the correct CF method of reading the AIM & mechanics book. But in neither of these does it show how/what the h#ll to do when the gear strips out and the power window doesn't go up all the way.
The power wndw assy. is held onto the INSIDE of the door panel with no access holes (who the heII thought of that at GM 4th floor???) to take the motor out/adjust window mechanisms. The only way to have any type of access is rivited from the factory on the inside of the enclosed door panel Arrrrgh....Deep breath here
WHAT'S HAPPENING?
I can hear the motor working just fine but have a hunch that the teeth have been stripped out near the top of the assy.
1980 Power windor repair. Stripped Gear.
WOW!!! This was by far the most difficult of any Vette repairs or mods...
Since the teeth on the regulator gear were slightly stripped, I went ahead to Ecklers and bought the "Regulator Gear Repair kit" ($34) Item# 27487 http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...7&dept_id=1673
and a new PW motor Gear ($20) Item# 34402 . http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1160
First: Lifted the window by hand to the fully raised position & stuck in old sticks & paint can stirring sticks to force (wedge) the window in the up position.
1. I took off the int. door panel
2. Took off the PW Motor cover panel (thin tin cover)
3. Used 3/8 wrench to loosen the three bolts which hold the PW motor to base plate. (loosen, not removed)
4. Un-hook the connection cable to the PW motor (old brittle plastic, nice & easy here)
5. fully removed the three bolts mentioned (step #3) above from the motor base plate, removed the PW motor from the door (you have to wiggle & pry that little thing out of there).
6. Lay the PW motor assy. on the ground and pull the plastic/metal gear out of the socket. Took off the old PW gear, cleaned the area well, added new grease to the gears & installed the new PW motor gear wheel. (Ecklers part # listed above)
7. Once again...I DID NOT REMOVE WINDOW ASSY TO REPAIR THE GEARS. I just force the window in the raised position via sticks)
8. I DID bore out the three aluminum rivets.
Once the whole assy was freed from the three rivets I could slide the regulator gears towards the little opening in the door compartment so I could get better acces to this.
9. I used the new regulator repair gear as a template. Using a black sharpie marker to mark where the three holes should go.
10. Drilled 3 holes into the original regulator gear at the three indicated black sharpie spots (as indicated in step 9).
11. screwed the new regulator repair gear into the three freshly drilled holes. I put the new regulator repair gear INFRONT of the old one (meaning: the side closest to the interior. NOT the outside of the gear)
Tighten it up well, making sure that the new gear teeth are flush with the old worn gear teeth.
12. NEW Gear teeth!
13. Pushed like mad for 20 minutes trying to align the assy back into the holes where the factory rivets were. Fortunately wife came in and put bolt in the hole to at least match one up.
THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB at this point.
14. installed the other two bolts (where the rivets used to be) & tightened it down well. Locking washers here as I am sure as H#LL NOT going to want to do this job again!
15. Re-installed PW motor into base plate, tightened the three bolts secure.
16. Buttoned it all back up.
17. GOOD TO GO!
This was by far the most confusing & "interesting" of all my Vette adventures.
I hope that the passenger side NEVER goes out. If it does, I might send it to a body shop and pay someone to do it!!!
Nah' probably not, it wasn't that hard...Well, yes, it was that hard. but, not really. The satisfaction came from successfully repairing this myself & sweating over it.
I hope this helps someone who has this same problem down the road.
Please PM me and if you're stuck I can assist!
Thanks again to jdp6000 (from the CAC) for his valuable help and Moosie on this!
Andy
