Hi guys, my 82 vette has power locks and they didn't work when I bought the car. I took the door panels off and played around and got the locks to open but when I hit the switch to lock...NOTHING not even a click or power drain (you know-when the lights dim). Is their a relay or a wire I should test w/ a test light or multimeter? I tried both switches, cleaned terminals and it looks like bubba been in their. I saw cotter pins tucked in screw holes because they were striped out. Any advice? THANKS

 

Here's the circuit diagram from my 78' Looks simple enough. I assume you checked the fuse so us your volt meter and trace the power feed (orange wire). Also check all grounds.

 

Have a look at a couple items.

1. Check the state of the plugs that push onto the switches. I replaced both pigtails (Zip-products has them) because on each side at least 1 of the wires/connectors were either broken or very loosely connected.

2. When you have the plugs pulled off, emery paper or steel wool the probes on the switch to clean off any dirt/corrosion that could cause a weak ground or connection.

Am in the middle of adding a remote keyless system that has taught much about the power lock system.

 

I had the same problem with my 80 just last week. After going over the wiring harness for hours I replaced both switches & that fixed it. Ordered them from Ecklers & waited a week only to find out a parts store right here in town had them.

 

Wait, the power locks are supposed to work? I thought they were just for decoration! You know, like the clock, cruise control, and rear defroster.

 

keep in mind that the locks work in series if one doesnt work
then the other usually doesnt work either so check both sides

 

If you want to try replacement switches and aren't concerned about them being 100% original....you can get the switches in the Help! section at the parts store.

As stated, both have to work before the system can function, so buy two new switches. If not needed, return them.

 

Like others...did this back in the fall on my 78 and I'm in process of writing an article on the subject. If it works one way and not the other...points to a terminal on the switch or the actuator is not popping down (Lock mode). As suggested, get a voltmeter and check the leads on the switch. I discovered (after cleaning) that one terminal wasn't working. Duke's wiring diagram will help immensely...the driver's side drives what happens on the passenger side. when working normally, you can open and lock both doors from the driver's side so your wiring reflects this.

Trace the wires to the actuator and than check the actuator. This is the part that drives the linkage up to the door lock. If the rubber boot on the actuator is torn...it's probably shot and should be replaced as well. If you manually pull up on the actuator arm (boot end) it should go up and down smoothly. If boot is torn...it is probably corroded.

It's tedious, requires patience and a six-pack but very rewarding to troubleshoot.

1. troubleshoot switch...is it good or bad?
2. troubleshoot wiring (power and ground) at the switch
3. troubleshoot actuator...is it good or bad?
4. Is linkage binding up...

I did #4 after removing actuator and replacing it and I learned that my problem was a combination of bad switch, bad actuator (boot torn) and linkage needed thorough cleaning.

 

THE TRUTH HURTS BUT YES THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO WORK! Thanks for the 78 wire scam. but my plugs have 5 wires going to each switch. I think its for the alarm that doesn't work or many have said, the alarm may have been disconected because of gremlins. I'll test the switches and take it from their. Thanks for all your imputs

 

 

Umm, no, they are in paralell with each other and should work independantly. The passenger side has the ground for the circuit, make sure its good, use a test light.

 

Nope. You said it yourself, the ground is on the passenger switch. If the passenger switch isn't present, the driver's switch isn't grounded meaning the circuit isn't completed. The pdl will not work if one switch is not present or is malfunctioning.


Here is a wiring diagram for a 1980. I think this should more closely resemble the 1982 wiring.

 

This looks like the lock wiring I have! THAnks EVERYONE!!!

 

What are you talking about decoration? My rear defroster works

 

It looks like there used to be a wire that went up to the key mechanism in my doors. Did this also power the locks? is it required for the power locks to work?

Got the car last year - locks didn't work so not sure really what does what.

 

I think that's part of the factory alarm......can someone else verify this?

 

Take the connections loose at the switches and lightly sand the pins to remove corosion and gunk. Pull the connectors loose at the actuators and scuff them with sand paper as well. Do this on both sides. If the pin sockets are coroded and in bad shape the replace them or you can do what I did and solder pick tails directly to the switch pins cover in heat shrink and use quick disconnect splice to connect. works like a charm and no problems since.

 

I learned from some of the C2/C1 guys this weekend is your best friend when fixing these older electronic connects is a dremel tool and its wire brush.