Engine builders.....Step inside (with pic)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 7
From: Jacksonville , NC
Engine builders.....Step inside (with pic)
Started my stroker build today on my 1980 L82 block. Came across my first question. The #5 bearing, oil port in block and bearing do not seem to line up line up. I am using Clevite 77 bearings part number MS-909P that came with my eagle stroker kit. Are these the right bearings? Is this normal?, if not what are my options to fix this....
Thanks in advance for advice and info
Thanks in advance for advice and info
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I have seen holes not line up perfectly but that's considerably worse. I would get in contact with the tech support staff where you purchased your kit, and forward that image to one of them. I would be uncomfortable with that much of a misalignment but if they clear it then it might be fine.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
WOW! I have seen this before but not that bad
Do you have the old bearings too compair it to. The block or the bearing were machined wrong but truthfully a screw up like that in a stock V8 would run 100000 miles without a problem.
Do you have the old bearings too compair it to. The block or the bearing were machined wrong but truthfully a screw up like that in a stock V8 would run 100000 miles without a problem.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
well the hole looks centered on the bearing (along the centerline of the crankshaft bore), but not on the block. if that is so, it is no surprise that the hole in the block was also drilled off the mark in the angular direction (measured from the angular datum) as well.
someone who happens to have the tolerances on that hole may kindly post.
have you checked the others? are they off?
if they were indeed drilled off from the factory, i'd use some machinist's dye to mark the hole on the block using the bearing; use a small carbide tool in a dremel tool to match the hole, sorta like port matching. if doing this, you can't reduce the support of the bearing and shaft by removing metal, but may reduce any restriction to oil flow; then clean well.
but that's just me . . .
someone who happens to have the tolerances on that hole may kindly post.
have you checked the others? are they off?
if they were indeed drilled off from the factory, i'd use some machinist's dye to mark the hole on the block using the bearing; use a small carbide tool in a dremel tool to match the hole, sorta like port matching. if doing this, you can't reduce the support of the bearing and shaft by removing metal, but may reduce any restriction to oil flow; then clean well.
but that's just me . . .
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
well the hole looks centered on the bearing (along the centerline of the crankshaft bore), but not on the block. if that is so, it is no surprise that the hole in the block was also drilled off the mark in the angular direction (measured from the angular datum) as well.
someone who happens to have the tolerances on that hole may kindly post.
have you checked the others? are they off?
if they were indeed drilled off from the factory, i'd use some machinist's dye to mark the hole on the block using the bearing; use a small carbide tool in a dremel tool to match the hole, sorta like port matching. if doing this, you can't reduce the support of the bearing and shaft by removing metal, but may reduce any restriction to oil flow; then clean well.
but that's just me . . .
someone who happens to have the tolerances on that hole may kindly post.
have you checked the others? are they off?
if they were indeed drilled off from the factory, i'd use some machinist's dye to mark the hole on the block using the bearing; use a small carbide tool in a dremel tool to match the hole, sorta like port matching. if doing this, you can't reduce the support of the bearing and shaft by removing metal, but may reduce any restriction to oil flow; then clean well.
but that's just me . . .
I wouldn't go crazy over perfection but a dremel and smooth the edges around the oil gallery and you will be fine. MAKE SURE ALL METAL SHAVINGS ARE GONE BEFORE ASSEMBLY!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 7
From: Jacksonville , NC
Gents,
thanks for the input. Dremel is safely back in its case and looks like the first head scratcher is complete...now where did I put that assembly lube? Thanks again for the responses.
thanks for the input. Dremel is safely back in its case and looks like the first head scratcher is complete...now where did I put that assembly lube? Thanks again for the responses.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
...if they were indeed drilled off from the factory, i'd use some machinist's dye to mark the hole on the block using the bearing; use a small carbide tool in a dremel tool to match the hole, sorta like port matching. if doing this, you can't reduce the support of the bearing and shaft by removing metal, but may reduce any restriction to oil flow; then clean well.
Since the hole is only 1/8" to 3/16", you should not have any issues of reduced load-bearing capability of that bearing saddle. Therefore, open up the hole, if it was drilled wrong from the factory.
I might also verify that the hole in the bearing is exactly centered, before you start, though...
I find it difficult to believe that the error "stack" could be this high, without somebody having screwed up on the job...
