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Pilot bearing dragging. Will it eventually loosen?
New GM crate motor CF clutch. reverse grinds, first is hard to get into. Looks like the pilot is binding. Will it ever loosen up? If not how bad is a driveway tranny pull?
Do you think this is a necessary step when you are re-assembling units that were mated together already?
I.E. I justs did a complete rebuild of my motor, but have not changed the bellhousing or tranny, should I re-index or trust the original pins? Everything is stock GM that was in the car before.
Do you think this is a necessary step when you are re-assembling units that were mated together already?
I.E. I justs did a complete rebuild of my motor, but have not changed the bellhousing or tranny, should I re-index or trust the original pins? Everything is stock GM that was in the car before.
Don't mean to hijack, just curious.
Thanks
You shouldn't have to unless there was an existing problem.
Was the pivot ball changed when you went to the CF clutch? If not, that could be your issue - many have had similar problems because of that.
From my own personal experience...fix it now before you end up wasting a perfectly good tranny. The guys who installed my Richmond 6 speed really screwed it up saying that it was suppose to be stiff shifting due to external rail and that after 1,000 miles it would get better...sure enough it got better after 1,000 miles but then at 5,000 miles it got worse and has progressively gotten worse now going on 13,000 miles since the install 2 years ago. Any type of speed shifting in my vette now just results in grinding gears which is no fun for spirited driving. She has been semi-retired to a nice cruiser until I figure out what to do as I am looking at doing both an engine & tranny swap at the same time this summer.
can I index the bellhousing with the engine in the car with the tranny pulled?
Yes, When I installed a manual tranny I had to re-index the bell housing to the block.
This is doing my Vette with a blow proof bell housing and a TKO 600 from Keisler. You really can't see the dial, but i got the runout to be less that .003
You shouldn't have to unless there was an existing problem.
Was the pivot ball changed when you went to the CF clutch? If not, that could be your issue - many have had similar problems because of that.
Changed to an adjustable ball and set it to 4.75 although the pedal adjustment is at the end of thr rod I may adjust the ball out a little more when I pull the tranny
Do you think this is a necessary step when you are re-assembling units that were mated together already?
I.E. I justs did a complete rebuild of my motor, but have not changed the bellhousing or tranny, should I re-index or trust the original pins? Everything is stock GM that was in the car before.
Don't mean to hijack, just curious.
Thanks
I would recheck it. Chances are that nothing would move. It is very easy to do when the motor is on a hook. Once the motor is installed it is more of a PITA.
In my pictures I just bought a cheap magnetic base dial indicator. I bent the shaft so the dial could rotate inside the bell housing output hole
I used the offset two inch long - I think Moroso. But the EZ adjust would make it even easier to do.
Once you think about it, the alignment is pretty easy to do. Mark the dowels on the end so you install them with the same offset direction. Then install them the same orientation. Then install your fly wheel and TQ to spec. Install the bell housing with like three bolts lightly. You want to be able to move it left/right and up/down. have somebody rotate the damper crank bolt and watch the dial indicator.
write down the dial readings at 12, 3, 6 ,9 O'clock. Lets say that it is .010 high and .007 right.
The offset dowels are like a cam with a high and a low side. You would rotate both dowels to bring the bell housing down and to the left.
Then swing the crank around a see if you brought it in nearer to "0"
The original dowels just can be pounded straight through the block ears. Just put some oil on it and pound it through
Not that I'd have any idea where this might come from, but I've "heard" about individuals installing the disk in backwards. Works almost good, but hangs up just a little.
Rand
I have to wait 20+ seconds before the transmission stops turning. It will not shift into 1,2 or 3 and when I check reverse it grinds. Once the trany stops I can shift into any gear.
Pilot bearing is dragging or the Cluch is warpped, hot or miss adjusted.
The tranny went in hard the last inch and it only has problems with reverse and first. If it were a clutch problem would most likely see it in all gears. I just didn't think about indexing the bell in too big a hurry to get it on the road
I would also try to readjust the shift linkage. Maybe, just maybe that will help.
Actually let me say more. After installing my ZZ4 and on its maiden voyage it would grind in reverse and first. After adjusting the linkage I can now shift with no grinding. I can even be rolling forward and slip it into reverse without grinding. Did this by accident, thought I was putting it into first. Good luck.