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With the car jacked up or rear wheel off the ground. Take your hand and place it at 12 & 6 o'clock on the tire, apply pressure from 1 hand to another. If wheel movement is felt your do ! Wheel should not move at all. This is a quick test. Gary's way is the best with a mic.
With the car jacked up or rear wheel off the ground. Take your hand and place it at 12 & 6 o'clock on the tire, apply pressure from 1 hand to another. If wheel movement is felt your do ! Wheel should not move at all. This is a quick test. Gary's way is the best with a mic.
I think this is the method to check the wheel bearings , not yokes. He needs to measure the side yoke play using a dial guage or feeler guage.
Worn clutch packs will also cause yoke end play. So, if you have more than say .015 I suggest you need to investigate as per Gary's paper and posts. Others have different opinions on what play is acceptable.
with the diff in the car and 1/2 shaft out of the way mount an indicator on the yoke. Push the yoke in and -0- the indicator and slowly pull it out to measure. If you have 050 or under and there is no other reason to remove the diff leave it alone. If you have 050- .125 then you're on the borderline( I would remove them) if you're at .125+ then I would drop the diff to look. With the yokes out you can measure from the face to the ring, if under .180 they're worn. sometimes the posi is so sloppy that a tuned unit will make a big difference and those .180 yokes may still be good. I just built a 68 diff and was able to reuse the orig yokes, I even had to face grind one to set the endplay to 010"