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OK I have read all the post I could find on soft brakes but none talk about the light coming on also. This 77 vette has all new brake lines and on its second master cylinder for this problem and pedal is still soft. MC was bench bled and system was pressure bled but the more I read I think my sequence is incorrect I used. RR LR RF LF As i said I do get the brake light when pedal goes to floor. Do you think a rebleed is the answer or other problem . Dave
OK I have read all the post I could find on soft brakes but none talk about the light coming on also. This 77 vette has all new brake lines and on its second master cylinder for this problem and pedal is still soft. MC was bench bled and system was pressure bled but the more I read I think my sequence is incorrect I used. RR LR RF LF As i said I do get the brake light when pedal goes to floor. Do you think a rebleed is the answer or other problem . Dave
If the light is coming on when you fully press the pedal, then one side of the system still has a [substantial] air pocket. Pump them a bit then pressure bleed again.
Be sure to check to see if you have 2 bleeders on each caliper (top only of each "half") and bleed from both if you do.
Yes, it sounds like air is the culprit. As far as the bleeding sequence, it is the opposite of what you are doing. You should start with the caliper closest to the MC with the furtherest, RR, being the last. This is according the the GM shop manual. However, I don't think sequence is that inportant.
Combination/Proportioning valve causes the dash light to illuminate when low pressure is sensed on either the front or rear system. (An internal piston shifts left or right to activate the switch.)
I would pressure bleed following the above sequence. Lightly tap each caliper with a rubber hammer while bleeding, to dislodge any stuck air bubbles. Following the system bleed apply a very hard brake application to reset the combination/proportioning valve. (This hard brake application puts high pressure on both sides of the internal piston to re-centre it.)
Test system again for brake pedal feel and re-bleed if necessary.
WOW what a difference the correct sequence made. I even saw a big shot of air come out after a couple ounces on the RR. I rebled a 76 I have also that has decent brakes and there was a also a big improvement and a bid shot of air after bleeding awhile. MY guess is bleeding the worng sequence is traping air in system. Thanks Dave
WOW what a difference the correct sequence made. I even saw a big shot of air come out after a couple ounces on the RR. I rebled a 76 I have also that has decent brakes and there was a also a big improvement and a bid shot of air after bleeding awhile. MY guess is bleeding the worng sequence is traping air in system. Thanks Dave
The sequence is argued both ways, but it's good to hear you got it figured out. In in doubt, bleed it out!