Same here. I went with the Isky Johnson style EDM's. Which I beleive are the same as the Comps. Wow I hope your estimates are right for the HP.
New Isky solid cam came today!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
New Isky solid cam came today!!!!!!
Finally something to get excited about again!!
Still no engine block.
I talked to the shop and they said should be ready by Monday!
This is replacing the Comp Cams XS282s. BTW if anyone is interested I am probably going to sell that cam and lifters. It broke in fine and only has about 300 miles on it. Has a nice lumpy idle but I wanted to get a little more aggressive and Jim (427HotRod) helped me pick out this one.
I am so ready to get this thing running again!!!!!
Wade
Still no engine block. I talked to the shop and they said should be ready by Monday!This is replacing the Comp Cams XS282s. BTW if anyone is interested I am probably going to sell that cam and lifters. It broke in fine and only has about 300 miles on it. Has a nice lumpy idle but I wanted to get a little more aggressive and Jim (427HotRod) helped me pick out this one.
I am so ready to get this thing running again!!!!!
Wade
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Nice cam. I've got the same exact one sitting in my garage waiting for me to install in the 427. If you beat me to it let me know how the break-in goes and how it performs. What oil are you using? Isky recommends Brad Penn but I don't know where to get that stuff.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
Curious how you guys arrived on this cam and what kind of hp and tq you expect to make in your 427's?
I've got a 427 in the garage that I need to take down to the block and buy all new guts - not ready to do it yet but always interested in ideas for once I'm ready to go (probably next winter).
I've got a 427 in the garage that I need to take down to the block and buy all new guts - not ready to do it yet but always interested in ideas for once I'm ready to go (probably next winter).
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,717
Likes: 121
From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Good to see its starting to come together for you. Follow Jims lead, he has helped me out with some tuning over the last couple weeks and it has made a huge differance on my car.
Neal
Neal
Last edited by chevymans 77; Mar 27, 2008 at 11:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
:o I will have to admit I copied you.......
Jim and I looked at a lot of cams and then I talked with Mike at Mike Lewis racing and it came down to yours and one that comp was recommending and Mike , Jim and I all felt that this was the right cam for me as well. we were going to go with a little more lift on the exhaust to go with the added cubes but Isky didn't offer it. Hopefully this grind will work great for both of us.... Wade
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Yeah, I like them thumpy. This is my toy/weekend car so it doesn't need to sound stock. 
Jim, Mike, and I played around with a bunch of different lobes before deciding on these. My previous cam had a helacious high end to it but was pretty much a dog down in the cruising range. I didn't mind it too much because a BB dog is still a fairly grunty little motor. I went with these lobes because they had a little less duration but still about as much lift as I could get w/out having to go to special coated lifters or a roller setup. I will however be using the EDM oil hole Comp solid flat tappet lifters with it. I'm guessing somewhere around 550+hp at the crank with my setup. When I talked to Isky they actually recommended something a little nastier but I think that's because they were trying to copy my roller with the flat tappet.
I'm close to putting it all back together. I've got the block all prepped and all the parts. I just need to clean the crank one more time and start putting it all back together. Unfortunately I'll be in San Antonio this weekend so I won't be able to work on it. Soon enough though....
Jim, Mike, and I played around with a bunch of different lobes before deciding on these. My previous cam had a helacious high end to it but was pretty much a dog down in the cruising range. I didn't mind it too much because a BB dog is still a fairly grunty little motor. I went with these lobes because they had a little less duration but still about as much lift as I could get w/out having to go to special coated lifters or a roller setup. I will however be using the EDM oil hole Comp solid flat tappet lifters with it. I'm guessing somewhere around 550+hp at the crank with my setup. When I talked to Isky they actually recommended something a little nastier but I think that's because they were trying to copy my roller with the flat tappet.
I'm close to putting it all back together. I've got the block all prepped and all the parts. I just need to clean the crank one more time and start putting it all back together. Unfortunately I'll be in San Antonio this weekend so I won't be able to work on it. Soon enough though....
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Southern California
Here is author David Vizard's advertised overlap reference chart that matches up to big blocks pretty well:
10* - 40* towing
30* - 60* ordinary street
50* - 75* street performance
70* - 90* street/strip
85* - 100* race
95* - 115* Pro race
So for the advertised overlap of 64* on your cam card, that puts you approximately in the mid street performance category.
Here are some common engine sizes, and the approximate minimum adv overlap needed for that bad **** choppy sound:
350ci………..77*
383ci………..78.5*
400ci………..80*
454ci………..84*
496ci………..87*
540ci………..90*
572ci………..92*
632ci………..96.5*
You should have some fun with it
Curious though why your lifter label says SBC instead of BBC.
10* - 40* towing
30* - 60* ordinary street
50* - 75* street performance
70* - 90* street/strip
85* - 100* race
95* - 115* Pro race
So for the advertised overlap of 64* on your cam card, that puts you approximately in the mid street performance category.
Here are some common engine sizes, and the approximate minimum adv overlap needed for that bad **** choppy sound:
350ci………..77*
383ci………..78.5*
400ci………..80*
454ci………..84*
496ci………..87*
540ci………..90*
572ci………..92*
632ci………..96.5*
You should have some fun with it
Curious though why your lifter label says SBC instead of BBC.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,015
Likes: 2,260
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Man...everyone got new parts it seems!! Looks like fun times are coming soon!
We about wore out the cam catalogs looking for lobes that were aggressive enough to make power...yet still tame enough to live more than a weekend race. It's always a compromise.
These are both custom ground cams based on circle track designs. The intensity of these lobes are lot more than many similar *looking* cams have. They are also relatively tight lash cams. So you will not want to run them very loose because the lobe is really flying once it gets moving.
Take a look at those hot settings....014/.016. With aluminum heads you're going to want to start them out at about .008-.009/.010-.011 when cold.
Break-in is critical with these things. This will be an outer spring break in combo. PITA...but best way to make sure it all works well. Use lots of cam lube from the package on the lobes and bottom of the lifters.
Pick up some GM EOS oil supplement at any GM dealer to dump in oil before startup. One bottle is good...two won't hurt.
Get good oil. The Brad Penn is available. Do a search. You can use Joe Gibbs oil like the NASCAR guys...get it from Joe Gibbs..but it's pricy.
Otherwise look for the OLD Delo or Rotella diesel oils. You want CI spec...NOT CJ if at all possible. If it has the EPA starburst on the label, or says it's good for 2008 trucks...it's the WRONG one. I recently found a 5 gallon pail of old Rotella at a small store near my home. You can still get it easily...but may need to plan ahead and have them order it in for you at any parts store.
The biggest trick for breakin is it HAS to start immediately when using flat tappets. No long cranking times trying to get timing right. It will wipe off all the lube on the lobes while you are cranking on it.
So fill carb with gas and hit pedal a few times. Make sure timing is right and hit the key. Immediately bring RPM up to 2000-2500 rpm at least and hold it there. That means radiator needs to be full, leave T-stat out, have water hose handy to cool engine, set idle speed up so it doesn't die, back out mixture screws a little to keep it rich. Make sure you can run it for 30 minutes or so without stopping. So clear it with neighbors etc before you start it. We don't want to shut it down for any reason if we don't have to. Double check all hoses etc before trying to start so there are no surprises.
Once you get through all of that.....you'll want to shut it down. You can quickly pull a valve cover and check lash while it's hot to get an idea of how close the cold adjustment was to allowing for growth and heat.
Then once it cools off...or while hot...doesn't matter...it's time to install the inner springs. After that fun project is done, set valves to whatever it will take from what you now know about hot and cold measurements. Set them to the cold measurements.
Then change oil/filter to more good stuff...and install another bottle of EOS.
Recheck timing...set carb and go out and have some fun!!
JIM
We about wore out the cam catalogs looking for lobes that were aggressive enough to make power...yet still tame enough to live more than a weekend race. It's always a compromise.
These are both custom ground cams based on circle track designs. The intensity of these lobes are lot more than many similar *looking* cams have. They are also relatively tight lash cams. So you will not want to run them very loose because the lobe is really flying once it gets moving.
Take a look at those hot settings....014/.016. With aluminum heads you're going to want to start them out at about .008-.009/.010-.011 when cold.
Break-in is critical with these things. This will be an outer spring break in combo. PITA...but best way to make sure it all works well. Use lots of cam lube from the package on the lobes and bottom of the lifters.
Pick up some GM EOS oil supplement at any GM dealer to dump in oil before startup. One bottle is good...two won't hurt.
Get good oil. The Brad Penn is available. Do a search. You can use Joe Gibbs oil like the NASCAR guys...get it from Joe Gibbs..but it's pricy.
Otherwise look for the OLD Delo or Rotella diesel oils. You want CI spec...NOT CJ if at all possible. If it has the EPA starburst on the label, or says it's good for 2008 trucks...it's the WRONG one. I recently found a 5 gallon pail of old Rotella at a small store near my home. You can still get it easily...but may need to plan ahead and have them order it in for you at any parts store.
The biggest trick for breakin is it HAS to start immediately when using flat tappets. No long cranking times trying to get timing right. It will wipe off all the lube on the lobes while you are cranking on it.
So fill carb with gas and hit pedal a few times. Make sure timing is right and hit the key. Immediately bring RPM up to 2000-2500 rpm at least and hold it there. That means radiator needs to be full, leave T-stat out, have water hose handy to cool engine, set idle speed up so it doesn't die, back out mixture screws a little to keep it rich. Make sure you can run it for 30 minutes or so without stopping. So clear it with neighbors etc before you start it. We don't want to shut it down for any reason if we don't have to. Double check all hoses etc before trying to start so there are no surprises.
Once you get through all of that.....you'll want to shut it down. You can quickly pull a valve cover and check lash while it's hot to get an idea of how close the cold adjustment was to allowing for growth and heat.
Then once it cools off...or while hot...doesn't matter...it's time to install the inner springs. After that fun project is done, set valves to whatever it will take from what you now know about hot and cold measurements. Set them to the cold measurements.
Then change oil/filter to more good stuff...and install another bottle of EOS.
Recheck timing...set carb and go out and have some fun!!
JIM
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Man...everyone got new parts it seems!! Looks like fun times are coming soon!
We about wore out the cam catalogs looking for lobes that were aggressive enough to make power...yet still tame enough to live more than a weekend race. It's always a compromise.
These are both custom ground cams based on circle track designs. The intensity of these lobes are lot more than many similar *looking* cams have. They are also relatively tight lash cams. So you will not want to run them very loose because the lobe is really flying once it gets moving.
Take a look at those hot settings....014/.016. With aluminum heads you're going to want to start them out at about .008-.009/.010-.011 when cold.
Break-in is critical with these things. This will be an outer spring break in combo. PITA...but best way to make sure it all works well. Use lots of cam lube from the package on the lobes and bottom of the lifters.
Pick up some GM EOS oil supplement at any GM dealer to dump in oil before startup. One bottle is good...two won't hurt.
Get good oil. The Brad Penn is available. Do a search. You can use Joe Gibbs oil like the NASCAR guys...get it from Joe Gibbs..but it's pricy.
Otherwise look for the OLD Delo or Rotella diesel oils. You want CI spec...NOT CJ if at all possible. If it has the EPA starburst on the label, or says it's good for 2008 trucks...it's the WRONG one. I recently found a 5 gallon pail of old Rotella at a small store near my home. You can still get it easily...but may need to plan ahead and have them order it in for you at any parts store.
The biggest trick for breakin is it HAS to start immediately when using flat tappets. No long cranking times trying to get timing right. It will wipe off all the lube on the lobes while you are cranking on it.
So fill carb with gas and hit pedal a few times. Make sure timing is right and hit the key. Immediately bring RPM up to 2000-2500 rpm at least and hold it there. That means radiator needs to be full, leave T-stat out, have water hose handy to cool engine, set idle speed up so it doesn't die, back out mixture screws a little to keep it rich. Make sure you can run it for 30 minutes or so without stopping. So clear it with neighbors etc before you start it. We don't want to shut it down for any reason if we don't have to. Double check all hoses etc before trying to start so there are no surprises.
Once you get through all of that.....you'll want to shut it down. You can quickly pull a valve cover and check lash while it's hot to get an idea of how close the cold adjustment was to allowing for growth and heat.
Then once it cools off...or while hot...doesn't matter...it's time to install the inner springs. After that fun project is done, set valves to whatever it will take from what you now know about hot and cold measurements. Set them to the cold measurements.
Then change oil/filter to more good stuff...and install another bottle of EOS.
Recheck timing...set carb and go out and have some fun!!
JIM
We about wore out the cam catalogs looking for lobes that were aggressive enough to make power...yet still tame enough to live more than a weekend race. It's always a compromise.
These are both custom ground cams based on circle track designs. The intensity of these lobes are lot more than many similar *looking* cams have. They are also relatively tight lash cams. So you will not want to run them very loose because the lobe is really flying once it gets moving.
Take a look at those hot settings....014/.016. With aluminum heads you're going to want to start them out at about .008-.009/.010-.011 when cold.
Break-in is critical with these things. This will be an outer spring break in combo. PITA...but best way to make sure it all works well. Use lots of cam lube from the package on the lobes and bottom of the lifters.
Pick up some GM EOS oil supplement at any GM dealer to dump in oil before startup. One bottle is good...two won't hurt.
Get good oil. The Brad Penn is available. Do a search. You can use Joe Gibbs oil like the NASCAR guys...get it from Joe Gibbs..but it's pricy.
Otherwise look for the OLD Delo or Rotella diesel oils. You want CI spec...NOT CJ if at all possible. If it has the EPA starburst on the label, or says it's good for 2008 trucks...it's the WRONG one. I recently found a 5 gallon pail of old Rotella at a small store near my home. You can still get it easily...but may need to plan ahead and have them order it in for you at any parts store.
The biggest trick for breakin is it HAS to start immediately when using flat tappets. No long cranking times trying to get timing right. It will wipe off all the lube on the lobes while you are cranking on it.
So fill carb with gas and hit pedal a few times. Make sure timing is right and hit the key. Immediately bring RPM up to 2000-2500 rpm at least and hold it there. That means radiator needs to be full, leave T-stat out, have water hose handy to cool engine, set idle speed up so it doesn't die, back out mixture screws a little to keep it rich. Make sure you can run it for 30 minutes or so without stopping. So clear it with neighbors etc before you start it. We don't want to shut it down for any reason if we don't have to. Double check all hoses etc before trying to start so there are no surprises.
Once you get through all of that.....you'll want to shut it down. You can quickly pull a valve cover and check lash while it's hot to get an idea of how close the cold adjustment was to allowing for growth and heat.
Then once it cools off...or while hot...doesn't matter...it's time to install the inner springs. After that fun project is done, set valves to whatever it will take from what you now know about hot and cold measurements. Set them to the cold measurements.
Then change oil/filter to more good stuff...and install another bottle of EOS.
Recheck timing...set carb and go out and have some fun!!
JIM
No pressure right?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,015
Likes: 2,260
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Piece of cake!!
Just we're all watching this time!!
JIM
Just we're all watching this time!!
JIM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I installed holy lifters in a circle track motor ... broke in with NEW CJ rotella + EOS ... but I'd also smeared some moly paste on lobes & lifter faces ... & it didn't bust off right away ... regardless no problem. Got my edm solids from comp prod aka howards their house brand (not CC nor Isky) ... no prob, strong reliable fast piece too. g'luck wade!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,892
Likes: 13
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,015
Likes: 2,260
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Both these guys are slightly hardcore....they like some thump!
JIM
JIM
