Little Mouse

That makes sense Justin did you notice if the pressure plate cone
looked a little bent on the end or was it flat. You have a factory bellhousing no scattershield pivot ball BS. either call Zoom try to fiqure out what your supposed to have or if your buddys still around for help jerk it back out. Hell you have done this about three times you must have it down to a science on pulling it .
You do have the clutch plate in right ??

JustinD

He left a while ago. I'm going to be pissed if I have to take it back out.

Ironcross

Mext time put zippers on the SOB...

ezobens

IMO the only correct fix for this is to use a different length pivot ball for the fork and/or different length throw-out bearing.
Any other linkage tweaks are only masking the issue by giving you the perceived free-play to be able to disengage the clutch- But in reality, your fork and throw-out bearing geometry are whacked and something is going to wear out prematurely as a result.

Think about it- When you replace a clutch, the only things that can change are the spring height of the installed pressure plate, the thickness of the flywheel (assuming you are using the OE bellhousing) or perhaps the length of the throw-out bearing.

The relationship of the Z-shaft to the clutch pedal or Z-shaft to the engine/frame/transmission does not change. So why would you change the length of the factory rods to accommodate?

The amount of 'playing' room between the throw-out bearing, the clutch and the fork to be in proper alignment are very small but needs to be correct. Otherwise you will be wearing out throw out bearings and forks right and left. A small difference in pivot or throw out bearing height translates into a huge difference at the clutch pedal.
The amount of adjustment of the factory linkage takes into account any acceptable variations due to wear etc while keeping an acceptable relationship between the fork/bearing/clutch. If you have to go outside this range, you can bet money that your fork to bearing/clutch angles are pretty messed up.

The only place I can see the valid use of different length rods is if you are swapping to an aftermarket bellhousing and the distance between the flywheel and the fork's pivot point varies substantially (more than you can accommodate with a different length pivot ball) from the factory dimensions.

Just my 2 cents from an engineering standpoint.
Elm

JustinD

It was an auto. So I am starting from scratch basically.

JustinD

Don't know about the throw out bearing but the clutch is in the right way. Has writing on it that says flywheel side. So I am absolutely sure it is in right.

Little Mouse

Well if theres nothing wrong the linkage, you have a simple factory bell housing sounds like its not getting fixed without pulling the trans again.
there is no way with a brand new flywheel, clutch disc with no wear
on it, you should have to be modding linkages.

Little Mouse

They wrote it on the wrong side put the sticker on the wrong side
out on the floor did you put the flywheel bolts in the flywheel
lay the disc on the flywheel see if it layed flat. the center hub is a little thicker on one side.

JustinD

I did it with the flywheel bolted on. I pushed the disk against the flywheel and it was free and able to rotate.

Ironcross

That was good, the pressure plate released the disc. That part is OK. Now which throw out or release bearing do you have?.r

JustinD

We are talking about the clutch disk not getting caught on the flywheel a problem I had with the other flywheel I sent back. I know that it disengages. I pushed the clutch down and has my friend rotate the tires. With the clutch out in gear it was impossible. I have no idea what throw out bearing I have it just says standard on the summit page. I looked at teh papers that came with it and there is nothing about it.

Little Mouse

Can you back the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate
look up through the clutch fork hole look at the pressure plate
cone see if the ends on it are flat or just a little bent, take a look at the throwout bearing. how good is your litte digital camera.

JustinD

The pressure plate looks to be bent I have a picture of it before I took it out of the wrapper. You must have missed it on the end of page 2.

Little Mouse

Had to go to the store, looks like a bent spring, Ironcross says it uses the short throwout bearing. that seems to rule out the throwout bearing. what did the linkage parts clutch fork come off of were there any different clutch forks between makes of cars.

JustinD

I'm not sure, I pm'ed the guy I got it from so I am waiting on his response to what the fork came out of.

Little Mouse

Did the linkage rods come out of a vette. I assume there was differnt stuff between camaro, chevell, vette.

JustinD

I think so, the rods appear to be the right length They would have to be seeing as how I'm using the farther hole and it is a good 5 inches from the other one. What is he clutch fork suppose to look like?

Little Mouse

I really don't know if chevy made different forks, does not seem like they would need to make but one. going to send you a PM.

Ironcross

The clutch parts appear to be correct in the picture as it shows a bent cone diaphragm pressure plate. The fork may need to be straighter then the one your using. Camaro parts would never work as its a hydraulic assisted unit with the release bearing part of the plate. You have what you need.

Red 71

Gm made lots of different forks for Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, Buick, trucks etc. Someone stated that JustinD got the linkage from various sources. If just one rod, fork, or z-bar is not the correct one for your application you could have the problems you are having. If you need to mod anything then you have a wrong part there somewhere. The fork shown in the picture looks to be the correct one but here is a way to verify. Position the fork on a flat surface as it appears in the picture. Press down on the two fingers where the TO bearing attaches so the fork can not wobble. Measure up from the flat surface to the center of the hole that the pin goes thru. The distance should be 4 5/16”. I just measured a new GM part# 3887177 fork to verify that measurement.
In the GM partsdirect site they show a clutch fork release rod at 8 37/64 total length. This is the measurement from the center of the hole to the center of the 90 degree bent pin that goes into the z-bar. The z-bar should be 11” long. The end that attaches to the pushrod should be 4” from center of the shaft to center of the pushrod hole. The measurement on the clutch pedal end is 4 11/16” Now if you lay the z-bar on a flat surface it should want to lay with the clutch fork rod end sticking up in the air. The measurement from the flat surface up to the centerline of the hole is 2 ¾” The clutch pedal rod length is 15 7/8” from center of hole to tip of threaded end. GM # 3921654
All of these measurements come from new ZIP parts. Yes, one or more of them could be incorrect but if any of your measurements differ I would think that would be a good starting point.

I have read this a couple times, hope I got everything right.