Wiper motor blues...
I have the Wilcox diagram and am trying to work off of it.
I have a new relay.
My car is a 69 but who knows whats been changed
One problem is according to the diagram I should never get a 12v reading of anykind ever on the light blue or #3 connection on the wiper motor.
Well I do and can not seem to find out why, only that it seems to be coming from the yellow wire on the relay.
I can make the motor go slow, fast and cycle down (but it seems fast?)
Also the test off the wiring diagram says to get high speed run 12v to #2 and ground #1
On my motor its 12v to #2 and ground #3
Also with 12v to #2 low speed = ground plus #1 plus #3
And with 12v to #2 high speed = #1 plus #3
If anyone can explain the relay in laymens terms that would be great cause I no longer need the wiper door or such as I am using a new long L88 hood.
I just need to make the wipers work (park,low,high) no need for the washer pump either.
Please help this has been the biggest pain in my *** and is really slowing me down on getting my restoration complete
I’ll make you a deal! You finish my bar and I’ll fix your wipers . . .
Ok it’s to far away from here for you to do my bar, but I’ll help you with this.
You said you have a new wiper relay! Have you verified that you have the correct wires on the relay in the correct location from the diagram?
It seems to be a common problem lately that the wires are either in the connector and attached back to the relay wrong. If the yellow and light blue wires are inverted it will put power on the light blue wire.
You need to isolate where the voltage is coming from and if you have voltage on the light blue wire, go to the wiper solenoid connector and see if you also have power on the yellow wire. Make sure the light blue wire is under the front black wire with the white stripe.
Another tip is to verify the continuity of each wire. If you have a multi meter and some extra wires, you can ping each wire from the motor to each connector. You might want to do this and also check them for a short at the same time. If you ping the yellow wire, you should only have a reading at the washer pump connector, the wiper solenoid, and the relay. If you ping this wire to the light blue wire and get tone, you have something wired wrong. (I hope this is making sense and if you want to, email me a phone number when and where I can call you on Monday and I’ll see if I can walk you through this). willcoxcustomerservice@willcoxcorvette.c om
I may have the schematic instructions wrong on which connector powers up high speed! It’s really not a big deal on this since you still have verified the motor is a working motor on both fields with the park switch working correctly. I’ll have someone in the shop check this on Monday. I did this picture from memory and a wire schematic. Either way, if you hard wire the motor to make it work and you have high speed with one ground and low with both fields grounded you know the wiper motor is fine.
The motor is a hot all the time motor with two fields, one field for high and one for low speed. The only way to achieve the correct operation is to make sure the grounds are working properly. Hang in there we’ll figure it out.
Willcox Inc.
One question on the diagram directions you say the relay is a ground only curcuit and I have the yellow wire that goes to it hot? Which in turn makes the blue wire hot when it meets at the relay.
Yellow wire goes hot and is hot all the time because the hot all the time red/white wire joins with it at the wiper motor.
there has got to be somthing I am missing here?
it all did work before I took it apart and it all worked a week ago untill I realized my blower motor did not work and it was the new harness not meeting the correct wire at the firewall connection, a change of the wire in the old fuse box solved that and it now works great.
I will be out in the shop today trying to figure it out
After all day messing around I noticed when I was doing some tests that I seen a small spark come from the wiper switch housing
Well I connected a ground to the upper console housing and everything works just fine
seeing as how my car is in the middle of a frame off and the whole interior is all apart everything is just laying out.
I am going to run a good ground near the switch to solve this 4 day nightmare.
Thanks to all for the help and hopefully this will help others too!
The system is a ground functioning assembly, but this is not to imply there are not any power wires in the system. The yellow wire to the relay should be the only wire in loop with power on it.
The ground on the back of the gauge cluster will force back feed voltage and when the center dash bezel is broken on both sides at the little tiny area this problem is quite common. Customers don’t realize that the wiper switch and plate must have a verified ground to the car! With the bezel being cracked in half at the top, you loose this ground and the car will try to seek its own.
Now you can get on to something else on the car and stop worrying about these wires that’s for sure.
Willcox Inc
The system is a ground functioning assembly, but this is not to imply there are not any power wires in the system. The yellow wire to the relay should be the only wire in loop with power on it.
The ground on the back of the gauge cluster will force back feed voltage and when the center dash bezel is broken on both sides at the little tiny area this problem is quite common. Customers don’t realize that the wiper switch and plate must have a verified ground to the car! With the bezel being cracked in half at the top, you loose this ground and the car will try to seek its own.
Now you can get on to something else on the car and stop worrying about these wires that’s for sure.
Willcox Inc




