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Trailing arm Dilemma

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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
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Default Trailing arm Dilemma

While working on another forum members car I came across this. First off the whole rear suspension is out of the car except the trailing arms. I grab the arm and get a lot of play in the front bushing. Need new bushings. Order the poly bushings. I am taking the trailing arms out last night and first off the right rear Wilwood caliper is leaking fluid and has soaked the pads. After removing the rotor I find no parking brake hardware at all. Nothing. The only thing left is the one pin that won't come out until you remove the brake sheild. Strike 1.

I remove the trailing arm only to find out someone had replaced the pivot bolt with a slightly undersize bolt. The trailing arm has been hammering the front bushing and bolt allowing for some of the clunking. After I compared the old bolt to a new original style there is quite a bit of size difference. Strike 2

Once I get the trailing arm on the ground I start comparing the the resistance of the wheel bearings. A noticable difference. I can see one of the bearings has new grease because some of it is leaking out of the seal that is in crooked. I can't see the other one due to the parking brake hardware still on. Strike 3

Now it is not my car and I have contacted him about this and have not heard back from him yet. Would everyone go ahead and bite the bullit and just put in a set of rebuilt trailing arms or leave the seal the way it is and take a chance and chance that the other one is already done. Also he would have to buy new parking brake hardware and I already have new front bushings but they can be returned as I have not opened the bag yet.

Rebuilt trailing arms are going to be about 700+ for the pair. By the time I redo the old ones and labor to redo this it would be a close call.
I know what I would do, just looking for others opinions and giving him the option.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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sounds like the typical hack job I see a lot. Are the arms bent or the brackets? If the major parts are still good I would rebuild them. I never use exchange units as I'm very critcal of the work- as you know.
Be sure to grind the shims parallel or you may end up with changes between the setup tool and final install. I dial in the endplay to 001-0015 on the setup tool. you're better off custom building them, but it does come down to how much your buddy wants to spend.
Gordon if you have any questions give me a call
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Gary,
The arms themselves are spotless. This car being a 71 has a very rust free frame and not a spot of rust anywhere underneath. An excellent no hit car, frame, and trailing arms.

Yes I know how **** you are. That is a good thing!
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Gordon,
He needs to bite the bullet now. Too much unknown that you may have to redo later. No on the rebuilt arms. Have someone reputable rebuild the arms. I recommend either of the people in this thread.
Mike
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
Gordon,
He needs to bite the bullet now. Too much unknown that you may have to redo later. No on the rebuilt arms. Have someone reputable rebuild the arms. I recommend either of the people in this thread.
Mike


No substitute for quality work. Have them bite the bullet. They will be better off in the long run.
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