5 hours on 1 rusty bolt
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 4
From: Springfield MA
5 hours on 1 rusty bolt
ARRGGGHHH!!!
Yesterday I started removing the front end suspension (sway bar and shocks) The sway bar brackets and end bolts were so rusty that they actually cracked. Then I started working on the brake calipers. I soaked them in penetrating oil over night.
First thing that I noticed was the gunk in the pistons and the lack of o-rings. (Maybe this is why I had no brakes)
The passenger side loosened easily so I moved on to the driver side. With some advice from gtr1999. I tried my impact wrench, torch, hammer, prayer and penetrating oil. 5 hours later I finally got it off.
Then I started on the brake lines. The nuts are all rounded off on the metal line side. They are also completely rusted on and will not move. Rather than spend another 5 hours, I am going to see if anyone else here has any ideas.
Both sides are frozen and bolts rounded off. Do I have to replace the steel lines too?
Yesterday I started removing the front end suspension (sway bar and shocks) The sway bar brackets and end bolts were so rusty that they actually cracked. Then I started working on the brake calipers. I soaked them in penetrating oil over night.
First thing that I noticed was the gunk in the pistons and the lack of o-rings. (Maybe this is why I had no brakes)
The passenger side loosened easily so I moved on to the driver side. With some advice from gtr1999. I tried my impact wrench, torch, hammer, prayer and penetrating oil. 5 hours later I finally got it off.
Then I started on the brake lines. The nuts are all rounded off on the metal line side. They are also completely rusted on and will not move. Rather than spend another 5 hours, I am going to see if anyone else here has any ideas.
Both sides are frozen and bolts rounded off. Do I have to replace the steel lines too?
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: wy
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (phoenix)
well, if you can get ahold of some replacement bolts, then here is an idea. take a dremel with a flat cutting disk. now, cut a notch into the center of the bolt WARNING DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP< JUST DEEP ENOUGH TO GET A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE SLOT SECURELY otherwise, when you go to torqing this off, it will break. this is a risky thing and shoulkd be avoided if the bolts are stuck really bad because this removes some strength from the bolt. if you just cannot get a grip on it, then it should work well. for more torque, use an old screwdriver, set it in the notch, and then grp the handle with a large pair of pliers. turn. this should add a crapload of torque to help you. another less risky way to fix this is to grind the sides of the bolt(opposite sides) flat, so that you can latch on to the sides with a pair of vice grips. hit the vice grips with a hammer to loosen the bolt. well, thats all the ideas i have. good luck and try at your own risk
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,635
Likes: 0
From: Union Ontario
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (drives61)
I'm with Drives61, vicegrips have always worked for me. Then replace the rubber line. Hopefully you won't damage the steel line so you won't have to replace it.
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (phoenix)
*manly CF hug for phoenix* *hand phoenix a beer*.
I understand. I drive a rustmobile.
I sheared off the end of a brake hose in a fitting the other day. That sucked. Had to replace the fitting (luckily fairly cheap, $10 from the restoration store). Am replacing with stainless brake hoses. I go stainless on anything I can these days, paint the hell out of anything else.
I've got a front suspension rebuild coming up, but it shouldn't be too bad. Everything is pretty coated in oil already. :) Taking out the front radiator support was a bitch though, I think two of the bolts (out of like 8 or 10) came out intact. But so it goes. You'll love your car more for it in the end. It's not yours until you put in all the blood, sweat, and beers.
Jim
I understand. I drive a rustmobile.
I sheared off the end of a brake hose in a fitting the other day. That sucked. Had to replace the fitting (luckily fairly cheap, $10 from the restoration store). Am replacing with stainless brake hoses. I go stainless on anything I can these days, paint the hell out of anything else.
I've got a front suspension rebuild coming up, but it shouldn't be too bad. Everything is pretty coated in oil already. :) Taking out the front radiator support was a bitch though, I think two of the bolts (out of like 8 or 10) came out intact. But so it goes. You'll love your car more for it in the end. It's not yours until you put in all the blood, sweat, and beers.
Jim
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Bartlett TN
St. Jude Contributor
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (phoenix)
I've had to use vice grips too. DId not want to but their condition made it necessary. I've used rust eater and in some cases it worked. Unfortunately some of my break lines were frozen together so they had to be replaced. Definitely wish you alot of luck!! :)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 4
From: Springfield MA
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (chevluvr)
Thanks for the sympathy.
I think that I will crack that beer, swear at the rust, turn on some angry music and get to it with the vice grips. If that doesn't work, I'm just going to buy the lines. Then at least I will know that they are new.
I think that I will crack that beer, swear at the rust, turn on some angry music and get to it with the vice grips. If that doesn't work, I'm just going to buy the lines. Then at least I will know that they are new.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,600
Likes: 837
From: PA
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt
I can certainly appreciate what you're dealing with. I keep hearing about these wonderful cars from the southwest that everyone seems to find. Unfortunately, every car I buy seems to have lived its entire life in Ohio... :rolleyes:
I always try to soak the bolts/nuts/fittings that I'm going to be working on for several days at least before attempting to loosen them. Sometimes this isn't always possible, but if you can, do it. Heat is good... Judicious use of a torch can also help loosen things up a bit. Just remember that fiberglass burns and gasoline is explosive; BE CAREFUL. Phillips head screws can sometimes be coaxed out by using a little valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip (make sure you use it BEFORE rounding out the screw head)... My experience is that you'll twist the screw head off before you strip the screw head. Impact drivers are great although you need enough room to swing a hammer for the non air powered impact drivers.
Slotting screw heads, drilling out bolts/screw, vice grips and other methods which destroy the fastener are always an option of last resort for me (I like to reuse as much of the original hardware as possible during a restoration), but there are times when it is the only solution.
By the way, I feel the beer helps... :)
Regards,
I always try to soak the bolts/nuts/fittings that I'm going to be working on for several days at least before attempting to loosen them. Sometimes this isn't always possible, but if you can, do it. Heat is good... Judicious use of a torch can also help loosen things up a bit. Just remember that fiberglass burns and gasoline is explosive; BE CAREFUL. Phillips head screws can sometimes be coaxed out by using a little valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip (make sure you use it BEFORE rounding out the screw head)... My experience is that you'll twist the screw head off before you strip the screw head. Impact drivers are great although you need enough room to swing a hammer for the non air powered impact drivers.
Slotting screw heads, drilling out bolts/screw, vice grips and other methods which destroy the fastener are always an option of last resort for me (I like to reuse as much of the original hardware as possible during a restoration), but there are times when it is the only solution.
By the way, I feel the beer helps... :)
Regards,
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Springfield Oregon
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (Rowdy Rat)
I spent about 4 hrs. on the upper LR shock mount bolt. 3 hrs. fighting it, 55 min. to drive to Sears, buy a sawzall, stop for a burger, drive home, 4 min. to open the box and put on a blade, and 1 min. to cut the damn thing off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,213
Likes: 1
From: South Alabama
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (phoenix)
Man, you guys sure make me glad that my car has always been in the South and hardly out in the rain. :lol: :lol:
I replaced alot of the stuff described and it was a piece of cake. :D :D
I replaced alot of the stuff described and it was a piece of cake. :D :D
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 4
From: Springfield MA
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (Cajun75)
Man, you guys sure make me glad that my car has always been in the South and hardly out in the rain. :lol: :lol:
Seriously, this car has much less rust than my last one. It had rusted a hole clear through the rear crossmember (above the spare tire carrier)
I am taking the opportunity to POR15 everything that I can reach as I do the front end and steering.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 1
From: Boston MA
Re: 5 hours on 1 rusty bolt (phoenix)
Replacing the front steel brake lines is not too difficult, and the lines are quite inexpensive, so you may want to consider this option and not waste too much time trying to salvage them if the nuts are bad. But the rear lines are a major pain, so it is worth taking the time not to damage the ends.
