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All was working fine the other day when I noticed all the headlights (except 1 drivers side) weren't coming on. I wiggled the wires at each headlight to make sure they were plugged in. After that I have NOTHING.
in the bulkhead connector that connects the fusebox to the forward wiring harness.
That's what I'm leaning towards. I checked for continuity at the fuse block and all is good.
Starting on one thing first, I checked the brake light switch using the (-) battery terminal as ground. It's getting power from the fuse block, but both wires on the switch are hot all the time. I should only be getting power on one side of the switch until the pedal is pressed. This should mean that the lights would stay on all the time - right? But I still have no brake lights - and yes the bulbs are good.
The bulkhead connector is next to impossible to get to. I'd just start checking everything in the motor compartment for voltage.
In my car we had one wire pulled out of the bulkhead (couldn't see it) but it was out just enough to prevent my signal lights from working.
As far as your brakes go with power on both sides, yes they should be lite. Is your switch the plunger type 69 up I believe, either way something isn't right there.
Switch is not a plunger style. I guess it's a one-year only deal.
I drove the car last weekend for a few hours with someone following me and they said the brake lights worked fine. They went out when the headlight problem came up (my turn signals do still work however). That is what leads me to believe there is a big problem somewhere.
Check grounds, continuity. I have a power probe that makes it really easy. You can touch a wire and tell if it's hot or ground. You can also apply power or ground. It makes short work of a real problem. Get one off the tool trucks, Matco, Snap-on, etc.
Scott, check your PMs and read the last paragraph closely. Sorry for being so long winded. Keepin mind that you now have 12 volts on both sides of your brake switch now too.