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Ok, I know engine noises are extremely difficult to diagnose over the internet, but here goes.
I had an exhaust leak that was making a high pitched, ticking sound. Replaced exhaust manifold gaskets and that noise is gone.
Now I’m hearing a lower pitched knock sound. It’s almost a hollow sound like tapping on a coconut with a hammer. Sometimes it is just barely audible at idle, some times not. It is not audible until the engine has warmed up. It is most audible between 1000 and 2000 rpm. It seems to disappear above that.
I’ve readjusted the valve lash per the FSM. Timing is at 8* at idle with vac can disconnected.
Motor is not original. It was built up and installed in the car about 7 years ago. In that time I believe I’ve only put about 6 to 8 thousand miles on it.
I’ve not checked compression yet, but I’m getting 21" of vacuum at idle and the needle only fluctuates about 1/4" so I don't think the compression can be too terrible bad.
Anybody have any thoughts? Need more information?
Any chance that this sounds like something I can repair with out removing the motor? I don't have a hoist or a stand at the moment.
That kind of knocking is usually a rod bearing with too much clearance. When cold it's still tight around the crank but when it warms up the oil thins and the metal expands and it starts knocking.
I don't recall a rod bearing knock going away at or above 2K RPMs, so that might point to something else.
Bad news, IF it's a rod bearing, the engine has to come out, the heads need to be removed, all rods need to be checked and repaired, and the crank needs to be replaced, and generally, along with the rod that was knocking.
Not a weekend task unless you have the proper tools.
Lets home someone else comes up with something other than a bad rod bearing.
Take a wood dowel or long rubber hose and listen to your valve covers over each plug....Idea here is to isolate on noise source....if nothing there,listen at oil pan..or low on block.....(block wheels,etc..)
i suppose i could pull the cover off and have a look. that looks like something i can do with out having to remove that f-ing fan schroud.
i don't remember hearing the noise when i put the tube down on the fuel pump. the pump is kind of oily if that matters. i'll check the pump better when i poke around down by the pan. the pump should be a little easier to get to from down there.
i'm pretty sure it is not the water pump. all i hear from that is a steady "whirr" sound.
is it that they cote the teeth in plastic to cut down on noise or something? sounds like a bad idea to me.
my timing holds pretty steady where ever i put it. currently i set it to the factory setting of 8* just to rule out detonation. i also only feed her premium gas.
A buddy of mine had the same pronblem. He could hear it up towards the front like you said. So we started cheap and replaced the fuel pump pushrod and problem fixed.
A buddy of mine had the same pronblem. He could hear it up towards the front like you said. So we started cheap and replaced the fuel pump pushrod and problem fixed.
actually, i bought a cheap stethoscope after work yesterday and was poking around with it last night. it works a little better than the vacuum hose i was using. i'm starting to lean towards the fuel pump area as the source of the noise.
i'm sure that rod isn't all that expensive. maybe i'll try that route.
did your buddies old push rod look obviously damaged?
Pull the fuel pump from the motor and start the car. It will run for about 30 seconds with the gas in the carb and see if the noise goes away. Remember to put a rag below because some oil may come out from pump open in the block. I was hoping my problem was a fuel pump turned out be number one rod bearing spun.