crossfire problems
especially when the air cleaner is off. My urge for a smoke while we were chatting immediately disappeared
Are you pulling any codes?
Contact my IDRIVEC5 on this forum, he has been through every aspect of the XFire.
Best to you,
tt
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The CF is very sensitive to FP, if you don't know what the FP is set to, you are shooting in the wind.
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/
1. Had the injectors professionally rebuilt...there are many places that will do this online. You should see a cone shape fuel delivery.
2. Replaced stock fuel pump with 85 corvette version. That was a huge difference and I dialed my pressure in to 13.5. You can get the setup information from the crossfire homepage. I'm at work and don't have the link but someone will post it.
3. Replaced fuel filter - just because there was no way to know how long the existing one had been in place.
4. Replaced the plugs - same thing as far as knowing how long they were installed.
5. Checked all the vacuum lines one by one.
6. Checked the torque and seal on the intake manifold...several of my bolts were not torqued at all...almost finger tight.
7. Set and checked the TPS.
8. Set and checked the timing.
9. Had the throttle bodies sleeved around the shafts...they leak.
10. Balanced the throttle bodies.
Sounds like a lot but after doing what I believe is really making up for neglected maintenance, it ran great. It continued to get better as the computer stored the optimal settings.
probably why they still are being produced today.
Before I did the heads and put in the air gap manifold I had about 1/128clearance with the air cleaner in the baffled air channel.
Do everything Zixxer said and when you get to step 10 (your actual problem in all likelyhood) build or buy a WATER manometer to do the job right. Material cost is about $6 and it takes 15 minutes.

BTW it's easier to balance the TBs with the air cleaner off . . .
Here is the deal my car did the same thing and it got progressively worse. The fuel pump on my car was the culprit. I would go ahead and change the fuel pump its cheap quick and easy. $50 bucks and 45 min later I was done. This cures the sluggish hesitation.
As far as the idle goes. this will take an afternoon to fix. You will have to check multiple things.
Tighten the Intake manifold bolts that secure the plate that the TBI units sit on. Make sure they are good and snug. Check your vacuum hoses for leaks, splits and cracks. If yout CTS (coolant temperature sensor) is original it is probably bad. $35.00 and 10 min...I chnaged mine and the idle greatly improved but was still not right.
Next my throttle bodies were way out of balance on at 15 and the other at 5. I had to balance the TBI units. I also advanced my timing from 6 degrees to 10 degrees past center. The link below will tell you how to tune the CFI system. Print it and read it several times before attempting. I did and then did it again. My car now Idles at 1200 rpm at dead cold start and the idle gradualy drops as the car warms up..takes about 2-5min depending upon outside temperature. My car Idles at around 700-750 rpm at operating temp in park and around 600-650 at operating temp in gear. The idle still fluctuates a little which I believe is due to slightly worn throttle shafts which will allow a vacuum leak.
Buy a year specific GM shop manual for your car. Its worth its weight in gold. You can pick one up off ebay or at many of the corvette prts shops.
Here is the link:
http://www.corvettefever.com/techart...ing/index.html
This article is fantastic and will take you through the process step by step. You will need a timing light and a manometer...spend the money on a digital manometer its worth it. once again I picked mine up used off ebay for $75.00. You dont need to buy the IAC plugs you can make them out of duct seal or or cardboard and electrical tape.
Also GM has discontinued the idle adjustment screw kit. Use your old one but becarefull grinding the weld off when removing. I would put a dab of caulk or JB weld on the screw once it is set to prevent it from moving over time.
This process took me about 1.5 hours the first go around and about an hour the 2nd go around.
Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions.
Last edited by bluesilver82; Apr 9, 2008 at 09:25 AM.
Kevenator . . too funny! I'm not gong to show you the Depends on the rear end . . .
The corvette fever article is the only accurate instruction I have seen other then the factory manual. There is a TON of bad info floating around, an example of which is that vac leaks at the shafts causes a problem. Total myth . . circulated by people selling re-bushing service.
You can get the factory manual cheapest from Helm.com as they are the OEM supplier.
Use only an AC Delco fuel pump.
If the lid is loose, often the gasket is shot. And the manifold bolts tend to come loose also, and they are under the lid. Crossfire troubleshooting should begin with a new FelPro manifold gasket set, loctight on the bolts and no more than 15-20 ft lbs on the lid bolts.
I do not reccommend a digital manometer unless it is a differential model and has a lighntning fast reaction time. Here's why:
ANY set of TBs can be perfectly balanced at idle no matter how bad a shape they are in. What matters on a crossfire is if they will STAY in balance when the throttle moves. With a water manometer hooked up to BOTH TBs at the same time, you should show balance. Now open the throttle and you may be surprised to see the balance change wildly. In my case the water instantly dissapeared from the manometer!
That deviation translates into an off-idle stumble . . . even with TBs that are 'perfectly balanced' at idle . . mysery solved.
A stock setup in decent shape will fluctuate as much as an inch. An excellent rebuild with new properly installed and reamed shaft bushings and proper balance should get you to 1/2" deviation. I use sealed stainless ball bearings on the ahafts and custim fitted plates to achieve 1/4" deveation . . and that's with a 2.125" bore.
Crossfire is a cobbled together Rube Goldberg with 4 banger TBs and a resurrected and neutered raceing manifold and a computer that could not power a pong game. OK, its wierd, but it can be made to work fine if you know how.














