Keep us posted.
454 build up journal.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
454 build up journal.
Hey guys! I thought I would start this and update it as I go. Tonight I got the crank installed. I will keep updating this with pics as I go.
This pic shows how I polished and profiled the oil passage from the pump.
All surfaces were cleaned with brake clean prior to bearing install
Liberal use of assembly lube on the bearing face.
Crank was thorouly cleaned and carfully set in place.
This shows the rear main seal and th use of gasket maker on the edges. Thanks TimAT for the instruction!
Crank installed and torqued to 110ftlbs. I torqued in increments of 50,75,110 spinning crank in between each. Crank spins nice and free by hand!!!
This just shows the rear cap and the gasket maker oozed out. I did clean this up a bit. DO NOT USE RTV!
Next step Piston install!!!
Wade
This pic shows how I polished and profiled the oil passage from the pump.
All surfaces were cleaned with brake clean prior to bearing install
Liberal use of assembly lube on the bearing face.
Crank was thorouly cleaned and carfully set in place.
This shows the rear main seal and th use of gasket maker on the edges. Thanks TimAT for the instruction!
Crank installed and torqued to 110ftlbs. I torqued in increments of 50,75,110 spinning crank in between each. Crank spins nice and free by hand!!!
This just shows the rear cap and the gasket maker oozed out. I did clean this up a bit. DO NOT USE RTV!
Next step Piston install!!!
Wade
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 3
From: East Waterboro Maine
This brings me back to when I built my 454. You have a long way to go, but it's worth it in the end when you get to watch it rip on a dyno pull!
Did you check bearing clearances and crank end play?
Did you check bearing clearances and crank end play?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Yes bearing clearences were checked. Crank end play was not this time. Reason being was that this motor was together for 300 miles and I checked that on the first build up last year. Nothing in the bottom end was changed except the bearings. The reason the motor was pulled apart was a bad sleeve install letting water in the combustion chamber. Line bore was checked by the new machine shop and it was fine and the crank was not touched so I felt pretty comfotable with just verifying the bearing clearence since they were new.
Wade
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
That's awesome. I have to say crank install and piston install are my two favorite things to do when building an engine. I love the feeling, when you get the mains all torqued down, and the crank spins perfectly. Then, stabbing the pistons in and bolting them on is the icing on the cake. I try never to break the two steps up, as they go so well together.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
That's awesome. I have to say crank install and piston install are my two favorite things to do when building an engine. I love the feeling, when you get the mains all torqued down, and the crank spins perfectly. Then, stabbing the pistons in and bolting them on is the icing on the cake. I try never to break the two steps up, as they go so well together.
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Did you *seat* the rear main? Meaning, while it was just barely snugged down did you *tap* the crank forward and backwards a couple of times to align the rear main cap/bearing halves before torquing? On regular blocks without alignment dowels it's possible/probable to have only half the thrust bearing taking the load. You want to make sure they both get full contact.
I usually just stagger the rear main seal halves to cut oil leaks, but I expect gasket maker will work too.
It's a little late now, but I usually drill a 1/16-1/8th" hole in the cam gear thrust face into the #1 main gallery to supply oil to the cam thrust area to keep it from eating up front of block.
Good work on rear main cap detailing. Anything for oiling is a good thing.
Keep us up to date as you go.
JIM
I usually just stagger the rear main seal halves to cut oil leaks, but I expect gasket maker will work too.
It's a little late now, but I usually drill a 1/16-1/8th" hole in the cam gear thrust face into the #1 main gallery to supply oil to the cam thrust area to keep it from eating up front of block.
Good work on rear main cap detailing. Anything for oiling is a good thing.
Keep us up to date as you go.
JIM
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Did you *seat* the rear main? Meaning, while it was just barely snugged down did you *tap* the crank forward and backwards a couple of times to align the rear main cap/bearing halves before torquing? On regular blocks without alignment dowels it's possible/probable to have only half the thrust bearing taking the load. You want to make sure they both get full contact.
I usually just stagger the rear main seal halves to cut oil leaks, but I expect gasket maker will work too.
It's a little late now, but I usually drill a 1/16-1/8th" hole in the cam gear thrust face into the #1 main gallery to supply oil to the cam thrust area to keep it from eating up front of block.
Good work on rear main cap detailing. Anything for oiling is a good thing.
Keep us up to date as you go.
JIM
I usually just stagger the rear main seal halves to cut oil leaks, but I expect gasket maker will work too.
It's a little late now, but I usually drill a 1/16-1/8th" hole in the cam gear thrust face into the #1 main gallery to supply oil to the cam thrust area to keep it from eating up front of block.
Good work on rear main cap detailing. Anything for oiling is a good thing.
Keep us up to date as you go.
JIM
Jim,
Yes I did hit the front and back of the crank end with a mallet to seat the bearing. I did start to install the RMS halves off set but that was how I did it before and it leaked on me. Thats not to say that I may have done sonmething wrong the first time.
Not sure I am following on the hole for the cam thrust area. I may be talking about the wrong thing but the new gear set I bought has what amounts to a roller plate on the back of it so that the block does not get chewed up. Are we talking about the same area?
Thanks
Wade
Last edited by ImBatman; Apr 10, 2008 at 09:31 AM.
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Yep, same area. The roller plate on gear set works OK. I just hate to have anymore of those little needle bearings waiting to go somewhere in my motor! Seriously, they are OK. They are often used when a block gets chewed up. Drilling the hole I'm talking about keeps that from happening. Having the fancy gear set is even better..I'm just cheap!
Keep after it...we'll be riding soon!
JIM
Keep after it...we'll be riding soon!
JIM
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Here is an update. I am not done for the day yet but here is my progress. Rotating assembly completely done!!!!
This pic shows where the ring breaks were clocked. a ring spreader was used as the machine shop and the instructions said DO NOT wined the rings on.
Close up of rings.
Once the rings were installed I dunked the assembly in clean motor oil. Also note the hose on the rod bolts to protect the journals.
Looking down into the bore.
Piston was set in place prior to wrapping the ring compressor arounds it.
Ring compressor installed and piston top was tapped with a rubber handle of a hammer. I had no trouble installing these in the bores but boy it scares me to break a ring....
Rotating assembly completed and rotates free and smooth.
That's all for now. I am watching the 3rd round of the Masters.....
Wade
This pic shows where the ring breaks were clocked. a ring spreader was used as the machine shop and the instructions said DO NOT wined the rings on.
Close up of rings.
Once the rings were installed I dunked the assembly in clean motor oil. Also note the hose on the rod bolts to protect the journals.
Looking down into the bore.
Piston was set in place prior to wrapping the ring compressor arounds it.
Ring compressor installed and piston top was tapped with a rubber handle of a hammer. I had no trouble installing these in the bores but boy it scares me to break a ring....
Rotating assembly completed and rotates free and smooth.
That's all for now. I am watching the 3rd round of the Masters.....
Wade
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Cam installed!!!
Cam gear was bolted on to use as a handle.
Lobes were thoroughly coated withe the Isky RPM paste.
Cam was slowly and carefully slid into the journal so as to not nick a bearing.
Cam was installed dot to dot but I will be degreeing it.
#1 at TDC when cam and crank were lined up dot to dot.
This picture shows that the crank sprocket is used to advance or retard the cam instead of the cam gear. As shown it is installed straight up.
I am so proud of my accomplishment!!! Does this engine make me look fat??????
Next step is to clean the oil pan and heads. I don't have a degree wheel yet and I don't think any of the run of the mill parts stores carry them so I will have to wait till tomorrow and run to the local speed shop. Till then I am going to clean and repaint. Bye bye purple.
You were bad luck the first go around.....
Cam gear was bolted on to use as a handle.
Lobes were thoroughly coated withe the Isky RPM paste.
Cam was slowly and carefully slid into the journal so as to not nick a bearing.
Cam was installed dot to dot but I will be degreeing it.
#1 at TDC when cam and crank were lined up dot to dot.
This picture shows that the crank sprocket is used to advance or retard the cam instead of the cam gear. As shown it is installed straight up.
I am so proud of my accomplishment!!! Does this engine make me look fat??????
Next step is to clean the oil pan and heads. I don't have a degree wheel yet and I don't think any of the run of the mill parts stores carry them so I will have to wait till tomorrow and run to the local speed shop. Till then I am going to clean and repaint. Bye bye purple.
You were bad luck the first go around.....
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
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From: Algonac Michigan
I love these threads...Like I have said before, when I see internals, and all is good, those parts look like jewelry to me.
You look like a cute kid...when will you be able to drive that beast!!!
You look like a cute kid...when will you be able to drive that beast!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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I like the red...better than the Barney motor!!
Getting closer!
JIM
Getting closer!
JIM
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 172
From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
I also just noticed that I posted the same pic twice. OOPs!!! I fixed it.....:o
The purple was a little disturbing. 
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I liked the purple but your right could be bad karma. 
I painted my last motor black, now almost every new engine I see is black (or red )
I am painting my new 427ci the same burgundy as my Vette, I am sure there won't be many that are going to look like this one, burgundy and gold
Good progress on the motor, take your time and make sure you measure everything 140 times
I painted my last motor black, now almost every new engine I see is black (or red
)I am painting my new 427ci the same burgundy as my Vette, I am sure there won't be many that are going to look like this one, burgundy and gold
Good progress on the motor, take your time and make sure you measure everything 140 times
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,018
Likes: 2,262
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
You're looking good there Wade. You're in the home stretch!
JIM
JIM