Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it, so now I have my newest (3rd) plan from everybody's advice. So I should try to take my time in looking for a good solid vette with the transmission I want that is pretty much the best that I can afford, and drive it as is(which should be pretty good condition) until I can find some $$ to do some engine work.

So what year should I get, I am sure there will be a little debate over this. So what is the best year and why?

Also how much should be I expect to pay to get the engine built up to about 350 horsepower range?

And last how much should I expect to pay for a good solid vette with a 4sp manual
[Modified by IWantAC3, 9:48 PM 12/14/2001]


[Modified by IWantAC3, 9:52 PM 12/14/2001]

 

One thing I've noticed, is new cars are broken down on the side of the road too. I hate computer, emission..... cars.
As someone already mentioned, if you can go earlier to get away from all this garbage it is much easier to maintain. A carb, spark and gas. The engine runs. Throw in all the monitoring gizmos,computer and wiring harness and it becomes a parts changing jamboree.
With that said I think you'll be happy with any year you get. For one thing you don't have anything to compare it to. The other is they all perform pretty well.

Decide on the basics of what you want first. Pick a car that already has the option package you would like. This way you don't have to change a manual into an auto or that kind of thing. I find a manual tranny to be much more work to drive than an auto, manual steering is like a work out, one hand on the steering and the other on the shift. With the steering on close ratio this means a lot of force for one arm. Manual brakes I don't see much of a difference. Mine is all manual and I wouldn't want any power for this. This is what I want so be sure to choose what you really want not think you would like. My car is hell in heavy traffic!
I would buy a reasonably cheap car and expect to throw money at it myself to repair the rolling stock. The engine should be usable but anything goes. You can always change it. Early years are easier as there is little in the way of electronics or emissions. Early years also may have high compression which is a detriment but nothing that can't be handled. And early years are also more manual and less creature comforts packaged. Somewhere around the spread you can decide what you want.
To be completley honest and realistic. You will spend more money on the car because you want to rather than you have to. If it costs $50 for some steering parts that have to be changed, You are more likely to go ahead and change everything to get it out of the way, and because you just gotta do it.

Somewhat simplified but the cam is the biggest thing to change the HP. The gear box and rear end have the most to do with performance and milage.
Don't forget that eary years were rated in gross HP and later in net. The gross meant they added the hp the engine needed to run itself.
Also I find the speed limit kicks in too early. So you are somewhat limited with any engine, if you know what I mean.

One item that could be usefull. Take any car to a garage for an inspection, A real inspection. This will cost a few bucks but then you will know what the car needs and if you buy it, would still need to know these things. This could very well cut the car that needed too much at one time rather than one you could afford to fix. They can do a leak down test on the engine and check out the exhaust and suspension. Things that would help you judge just what your getting into.

 

I'd like to add one more thing them I'll shut up..Consider joining a Corvette club (pefererably with lots of older cars) in your area first and you will meet people that know corvettes and can help you choose. Someone who has never been around corvettes will not be a lot of help or know the trouble spots to look for.


[Modified by silvervetteman, 5:40 AM 12/15/2001]