81 Build Thread
Its a great starting point, but it needs a lot of work. I'm planning to do everything I can myself, including the paint and bodywork. I'll be working in our 2 car garage for most of the project, including the painting of the smaller parts, but the body will likely be painted in a borrowed/rented booth at a local shop. I'm going to show how its done step by step, so that even those with little or no experience will have a good idea of what is involed in a rebuild of this scope.
I'm building with a Pro-Touring influence...basically, I want the car to be daily driveable, very reliable, get decent mileage, and have the ability to be driven anywhere, while still having the power to do well at the dragstrip ,and the suspension/brakes/tires to hold its own on a road course. I'm not building a racecar, but having had several fast streetcars in the past (including a 377 powered 1963 Nova SS, a 90 LX 5.0 Mustang with a Vortech supecharger, and a 97 Camaro SS with a 383 LT1), I want a minimum of 500fwhp for this car. I don't really care about dyno numbers, but I do know that is the approximate power level that will make me happy...and maybe prevent my going back in and changing stuff later!.
The exact powerplant for the car is still up in the air; I still have the Camaro SS, and it will be up for sale soon. If it doesn't bring what I want with its current engine, I may put a stock LT1 back in it and use the 383 LT1 for this one. I'm hoping it will sell as is. In that case, I will build an LS series motor with a forged bottom end, and some type of unnatural aspiration. I'm leaning towards rear mounted turbos, a la STS, since the removal of the spare tire leaves a lot of open space in the rear. I'd prefer a manual transmission, so a T56 will be my first choice. The Tremec TKOs are nice also, but after years of driving 4th gen F-bodies I think I would miss the extra gear.
I know the stock rearend isn't going to hold the power I want to make, at least not for very long, and I plan to address that. An earlier iron rear, mounted to the stock batwing, would probably do, but even that I think will be pushing it, especially with a manual transmission. I can't afford a Tom's 12 bolt on top of everything else, and I have a few ideas for how to overcome that...none of which involve a solid axle, BTW. More on that later.
The Suspension is going to be upgraded, likely with coilovers, upper a-arms with improved geometry, and the appropriate sway bars and bushings. The body mounts will be solid, and I'm planning a 6 point rollbar to further stiffen the chassis. I'll also do all the Chevy Power manual mods to the frame. I'm also converting to rack and pinion, with a homebrewed conversion.
Wheels and tires will be 18s or a 17/18 mix, something with a more traditional 5 spoke design and a black center with a polished lip. I'm planning to paint the car exclusively with Spies-Hecker products, Porsche Guards Red with a black center stripe, and do a black leather interior with some type of later, more supportive seats. I am considering C5 or Fiero seats, or possibly something aftermarket.
Here are a few pics of the Vette, just after purchase.Overall, the body appears to be in pretty decent shape. The front bumper cover is toast, and I plan to replace the hood anyway (L88 style), but the rest should be usable as is. It appears to have been repainted once. I'll be stripping it to the bare fiberglass (SMC).



The interior is pretty trashed. The seats are decent, but everything else needs work. The dash is cracked, the carpet was removed by one of the previous owners (due to a t-top leak that he didn't fix),and pretty much everything except the trim around the glass and t-tops will need to be replaced. There is quite a bit of surface rust on the floorpan (yes, its steel on the mid 76-82 models), but the birdcage looks good so no worries.

Something I haven't noticed being done here, but that I would like to do with this build thread, is document the cost of everything. This way, not only can a novice see how things are done and in what order, they can also have a more realistic idea of what the whole process is going to cost. I'll try to include all costs of parts (even estimates for ones I already own) and materials. I'll also subtract out the sale of any parts I won't be reusing. This part of the thread will be updated regularly.
Purchase Price- $3500
Citri-Strip- $20
Razor Blades- $5
_________________________________
Total So Far: $3525
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Jan 29, 2009 at 04:29 PM. Reason: made some updates
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Jan 29, 2009 at 04:31 PM.
Jim stripping the door:




Some damage, badly repaired, at the left rear:




Removed the rear bumper cover:
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Apr 24, 2008 at 05:36 AM.





I used a razor blade on some areas:

The front end was so trashed, and the fasteners were rusted badly, so I cut off the majority of it with my sawzall then removed the rest:



Some of the areas I used the stripper on required several applications:

Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Apr 24, 2008 at 05:37 AM.
Looks like fun, keep us posted on how it goes...
Looks like fun, keep us posted on how it goes...
As you can see we have lots more to do, and I have made some progress that I haven't uploaded to Photobucket yet. I'm hoping to have the car done by the end of the year, so expect regular updates.

Rear deck, completely stripped with razor blades:

After removal of the rear window trim:

The tool used to remove the rear window trim, KD Tools #2038 ($8 at O'Reilley's):
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Apr 24, 2008 at 05:37 AM.


Damage at right front, badly repaired with Bondo:

Starting to remove the headlight buckets; this bolt has to come out:

And these, on both sides:


Didin't get picks, but the bolts holding the mechanism to the nose have to be removed as well.
Headlights out:

More on the damage:


More stripped off the passenger side:
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Apr 24, 2008 at 05:38 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Jan 29, 2009 at 04:34 PM.
Did you have the 6 way power driver seat? Im converting my 82 over to C5 Z06 seats and may have some good info for you, due to similar body styles and possible floor plan, when I get that thread updated again. I found the info from guys that did this in chrome bumper cars didnt really apply to well, since the floor seems to be different.
Best Regards, Brent...
Did you have the 6 way power driver seat? Im converting my 82 over to C5 Z06 seats and may have some good info for you, due to similar body styles and possible floor plan, when I get that thread updated again. I found the info from guys that did this in chrome bumper cars didnt really apply to well, since the floor seems to be different.
Best Regards, Brent...


















