Strut rod mounting bracket question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 0
From: chicago IL
Strut rod mounting bracket question
The bracket that bolts to the bottom of the differential got bent out of shape, I'm wondering whether you can replace it with the VBP bracket for smart struts but keep the stock strut rods (i have new stock ones from van steel) or does the smart struts bracket require the poly adjustable struts to work?
Also, from what I can see the bracket seems to just be bolted to the differential from the bottom, is this the only way its held on? Easy to get off?
Where can i get a stock new one? VBP and Van Steel don't seem to list them.
Thanks
Also, from what I can see the bracket seems to just be bolted to the differential from the bottom, is this the only way its held on? Easy to get off?
Where can i get a stock new one? VBP and Van Steel don't seem to list them.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The smart strut bracket improves the geometry of the suspension by lowering the pivot point - the stock solid strut rods might be too long to be adjusted properly by the cam bolt. I prefer the idea of using a solid square plate to lock the cam bolt in place and adjusting with the strut rods - I made a set of heim-joint rods with some Speedway ends and an old set of VB&P's regular adjustable strut rods.
Any Corvette breaker or eBay should be able to hook you up with the stock part. Zip, Paragon and the other restoration houses might have them new.
Any Corvette breaker or eBay should be able to hook you up with the stock part. Zip, Paragon and the other restoration houses might have them new.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Haven't looked them up, but Paragon likely has the stock type replacement. I like VB&P's bracket (#52000B, available separately), however, unless they've changed it in the past few months you'll need to find something to reduce the oversized holes (as seen below) for the bolts that fasten it onto the diff. BTW, lots of guys have them, but IMHO poly bushings on camber struts are an inferior solution to heim-jointed rods w/lock plates (as the Bat mentioned).
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 24, 2008 at 11:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 0
From: chicago IL
I made some custom custom heim joint tie rods for the steering up front, with a single bar thats got LH thread on one end, RH on the other, with heim joints screwed in, is this the same thing you guys are talking about?
What's the advantage of heim joints for the strut bar?
Also, aren't heim joints about 1 inch thick, there will be a ton of space left behind and in front of it when mounted to the shock mount because the strut bar end about 3 inches long, do you just fill it up with spacers and shim to be centered?
How do these locking plates work? I've seen pictures, but do they basically line up with the bracket and prevent the cam bolt from turning?
Pictures would be great
Thanks for the offer, let me find out first whether I'm going to maybe make my own heim joint strut rods and then I'll probably get the bracket from you.
What's the advantage of heim joints for the strut bar?
Also, aren't heim joints about 1 inch thick, there will be a ton of space left behind and in front of it when mounted to the shock mount because the strut bar end about 3 inches long, do you just fill it up with spacers and shim to be centered?
How do these locking plates work? I've seen pictures, but do they basically line up with the bracket and prevent the cam bolt from turning?
Pictures would be great
Thanks for the offer, let me find out first whether I'm going to maybe make my own heim joint strut rods and then I'll probably get the bracket from you.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Yep, you're on the right track. Advantages are elimination of compliant rubber bushings for far better camber control and elimination of the eccentric adjusters which don't stay put all that well over time. Since the ends move in more than one plane during suspension travel, the heim-joint is the correct component for the application. The lock plates are simply squares with a bolt hole that replace the cams altogether, leaving the rod in complete control of camber adjustment. With just a little study you should be able to fab up a set, with accompanying spacers and plates, in short order.
Here's a pic of Guldstrand's...
http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...?idproduct=100
BTW, if you want skip the guess work and reduce your camber curve to John Greenwood's long recommended setting w/o buying an aftermarket bracket, place a 1/2" spacer plate (longer bolts required) between the stock bracket and the diff.
Here's a pic of Guldstrand's...
http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...?idproduct=100
BTW, if you want skip the guess work and reduce your camber curve to John Greenwood's long recommended setting w/o buying an aftermarket bracket, place a 1/2" spacer plate (longer bolts required) between the stock bracket and the diff.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 0
From: chicago IL
Thanks
That looks good to me, I can make those "strut rods" for about $50 using the same place as I did for the tie rods for the front end, maybe I can make a kit...hmmm
Is there a lot of stress on them? As in should I get tough steel ones, or will just some nice thick aluminum ones do? What are the exact dimensions of those squares?
That looks good to me, I can make those "strut rods" for about $50 using the same place as I did for the tie rods for the front end, maybe I can make a kit...hmmm
Is there a lot of stress on them? As in should I get tough steel ones, or will just some nice thick aluminum ones do? What are the exact dimensions of those squares?
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks
That looks good to me, I can make those "strut rods" for about $50 using the same place as I did for the tie rods for the front end, maybe I can make a kit...hmmm
Is there a lot of stress on them? As in should I get tough steel ones, or will just some nice thick aluminum ones do? What are the exact dimensions of those squares?
That looks good to me, I can make those "strut rods" for about $50 using the same place as I did for the tie rods for the front end, maybe I can make a kit...hmmm
Is there a lot of stress on them? As in should I get tough steel ones, or will just some nice thick aluminum ones do? What are the exact dimensions of those squares?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 0
From: chicago IL
I'm planning to buy heavy duty heim joints, i should have specified but I was talking about the bars themselves that the heim joints go into, will the ones below work?
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
or is this better
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2086...emNo=tie%20rod
thanks guys
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
or is this better
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2086...emNo=tie%20rod
thanks guys
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I'm planning to buy heavy duty heim joints, i should have specified but I was talking about the bars themselves that the heim joints go into, will the ones below work?
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
or is this better
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2086...emNo=tie%20rod
thanks guys
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
or is this better
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2086...emNo=tie%20rod
thanks guys
I used the steel VB&P tubes because I already had them (and in fact already had the poly adjustables installed, I got them for a song on eBay).
