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Keisler Crossmember Has To Be Wrong

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rj8806
Thank you...I did not know that...that has to be what the issue was then. So now my question to shinoda is does your vette have power seats or not?


P.S. I tried calling you twice now but it goes to voice mail. I need to touch base with you to get these swapped out....please call me or I will continue to try calling you.


Richard

FYI My car is a 81 with power seats and the crossmember that you sent me worked perfectly.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:38 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by spedaleden
FYI My car is a 81 with power seats and the crossmember that you sent me worked perfectly.
So your car doesn't have the rib on the drivers side floor pan?



Richard
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #23  
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I just spoke with Richard and the new crossmember is on its way.

I've got a few more things to measure now but Richard was extremely helpful.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rj8806
Thanks for the kudos...I do try to take care of everyone as best as I can.
The thing about driveshaft balancing is every machine is different. If you sent me one from your local driveline shop that they check out as balanced, my machine will say that it is out of balance. Same goes for a driveshaft from us. We can make the straightest most perfect driveshaft with .000" of runout and send it to another driveline shop and their machine will say it is off as well. Every machine is different. I still don't understand it.
As for the yokes, to my knowledge we are not sealing the caps anymore as the issue was supposed to be corrected on the last batch of them we just recieved. It still wouldn't be a bad idea though just for insurance.


Richard

Richard, the reason for the above phenoma is ground vibrations....

from passing truck traffic or construction gear in the area....

it was explained to me and a buddy some decades ago by a NASCAR engine builder back in the day.....he allways worked at night like 3 am, cause traffic was minimal, most really big league shops are out in the country way the hell away from any traffic, and they still work at night....strange but on samples of two over my lifetime they both had the same work habits

it makes sense, in that if you are balancing something like a bottom end or a driveshaft...you have this ground vibration that not all can be removed by just simple suspensions of the machinery...it can toss off a reading....

crazy, I know....but I beleive the old man....
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 01:41 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Richard, the reason for the above phenoma is ground vibrations....

from passing truck traffic or construction gear in the area....

it was explained to me and a buddy some decades ago by a NASCAR engine builder back in the day.....he allways worked at night like 3 am, cause traffic was minimal, most really big league shops are out in the country way the hell away from any traffic, and they still work at night....strange but on samples of two over my lifetime they both had the same work habits

it makes sense, in that if you are balancing something like a bottom end or a driveshaft...you have this ground vibration that not all can be removed by just simple suspensions of the machinery...it can toss off a reading....

crazy, I know....but I beleive the old man....
While I don't completely understand the theory, I guess it makes sense. The thing is, our plant is way off the main road back in an industrial park and the driveshaft shop is in the back end of the building next to the woods. Although, I have seen some gigantic turkey come out of the tree line.


Richard
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rj8806
So your car doesn't have the rib on the drivers side floor pan?



Richard
I have an '81 with power seats and the "H" beed in the floor pan.
I have the 5 speed manual kit, and I'll be installing it in June. The distance from the tip of perch to the back of the crossmember is 7.4375 inches (7 & 7/16). I sent you a pm with the part number on it. I bought the kit back in feb of this year.

do I need a different part?

Thanks,
Stephen

Last edited by darklordftt; Apr 29, 2008 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:54 PM
  #27  
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well, kiesler is going to get my bussiness ( after i saw the postings) when i get ready for the 5 speed. makes me proud to be an
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rj8806
So your car doesn't have the rib on the drivers side floor pan?



Richard
Here is an older pic of the drivers bottom floor. You will see a rib. I took this when I was restoring the car.

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:46 PM
  #29  
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ok I was wrong about the "H" in my floorpan, I didnt have a flash light when I looked before, but the flash from this pic I just took shows it flat.

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by darklordftt
I have an '81 with power seats and the "H" beed in the floor pan.
I have the 5 speed manual kit, and I'll be installing it in June. The distance from the tip of perch to the back of the crossmember is 7.4375 inches (7 & 7/16). I sent you a pm with the part number on it. I bought the kit back in feb of this year.

do I need a different part?

Thanks,
Stephen

Stephen:
After seeing your last post where you confirmed you did not have the rib plus the fact that you just got the kit this year, I believe you should be fine. Just to make sure, check out my pictures I posted yesterday of what the revised cross member looks like and compare it to yours. On the top of the cross member, above the perch, there should be a relief cut into it(see my pics). Also, when I measured from the back of the cross member out to the end of the perch it measured 7 3/4". Double check your again and then let me know. I would like to get you squared away before you start the install.

I owe shinoda a big apology. At the end of last year when we made the revisions to the cross member, I pulled a report of all of our 1980-1982 corvette kits and contacted everyone to get the cross member swapped out. Some how, I must have missed you and never called you. Becuase of my mistake, you are now in the middle of the install and have come to stand still. For that, I am sorry.:o Please accept my apology and know that I will do whatever I can to make it right.

Richard

Last edited by rj8806; Apr 30, 2008 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #31  
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I'll take a picture of the measurement when I get home... this is what I measured:
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by darklordftt
I'll take a picture of the measurement when I get home... this is what I measured:
Looking at your picture here, that is the correct crossmember. You're all set.


Richard
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:34 PM
  #33  
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That was your picture I drew on.

but mine does look exactly like that... I was getting a bad measurement reading because of the 1" height difference between the top of the perch and where its welded to the top of the crossmember (it shifted my perspective of where the back of the crossmember lined up with the measuring tape)... it measures correctly.


Last edited by darklordftt; Apr 30, 2008 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 06:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by darklordftt
That was your picture I drew on.

but mine does look exactly like that... I was getting a bad measurement reading because of the 1" height difference between the top of the perch and where its welded to the top of the crossmember (it shifted my perspective of where the back of the crossmember lined up with the measuring tape)... it measures correctly.

If you have a relief in the top of your crossmember in the center (i.e. not flat across the top) and the mount on the bottom of the crossmember is not flush with the edge of the crossmember, then you have the correct crossmember I believe. If you look at my original pics and compare the mount locations between my pics and Richard's you will see a big difference.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 06:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rj8806
Please accept my apology and know that I will do whatever I can to make it right.

Richard
That's an unusual attitude in today's world.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 09:40 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by darklordftt
That was your picture I drew on......
OOPs...didn't realise that. My mistake. Anyway, like shinoda said...if your's looks like that one in the picture, then you are all set. If not, let me know and I'll send the replacement a.s.a.p..

shinoda...thank you for the compliment but it's not that unusual for me, that's just how I was raised. You can thank my dad for that.


Richard

Last edited by rj8806; May 1, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 09:03 PM
  #37  
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Ok, for those interested, here is a side by side comparison of the two crossmembers before I send the bad one back. The correct one is on top in both pics.


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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 01:23 PM
  #38  
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Hey Richard,

I am seriously considering a 700R-4 to TKO-600 conversion in my 74 BB coupe, and I would probably bring the car to your for the job. My question is about my existing Bowtie Overdrives tubular crossmember. It was obviously designed for an automatic but I have read on the forum where some have modified it slightly to use with a manual. I like it because it tucks up under the floor pans on each side which allows room for my custom 3" exhaust. Can it be used with your TKO-600 conversion? If not, will your crossmember clear my exhaust? Thanks.

Paul
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