Push rod measuring tool
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
Push rod measuring tool
For a SBC what push rod measuring tool works? it seems as though the 6.800 - 7.800 is barely long enough and might not have enough threads to get a good reading. The 7.800 - 8.800 may be too long.
Seems to me they should have made a 7.250 - 8.250 but I am sure there is a reason they don't.
Seems to me they should have made a 7.250 - 8.250 but I am sure there is a reason they don't.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Roselle IL
Just did this on my BBC build. Seems we will finish near the same time. Your just down the road so we'll have to find a way to compare the performance of our builds 
Though I may have a few cubes on you.
I just installed the pushrods and buttoned up the intake last night.
I went to Ace hardware and bought a light spring to replace the valve spring with. I then just adjusted the rockers (while holding light upward pressue to keep the rocker in contact with the nut). I continued to adjust the polylock until I got the rocker motion that I wanted (a whole nother subject to read up on). When done, I drew a line on my pushrod and measured the movement of the line as I took the pushrod from lifter to rocker (essentially measured the play). Add this to your stock length and order away.
This obviously only works when increasing P/R size. However, I believe going from stamped to roller typically requires same or larger P/R. This saved me 2 checkers at $20 each plus shipping and really wasn't overly inconvenient.
Good luck.
Though I may have a few cubes on you. I just installed the pushrods and buttoned up the intake last night.
I went to Ace hardware and bought a light spring to replace the valve spring with. I then just adjusted the rockers (while holding light upward pressue to keep the rocker in contact with the nut). I continued to adjust the polylock until I got the rocker motion that I wanted (a whole nother subject to read up on). When done, I drew a line on my pushrod and measured the movement of the line as I took the pushrod from lifter to rocker (essentially measured the play). Add this to your stock length and order away.
This obviously only works when increasing P/R size. However, I believe going from stamped to roller typically requires same or larger P/R. This saved me 2 checkers at $20 each plus shipping and really wasn't overly inconvenient.
Good luck.
Last edited by lr172; Apr 29, 2008 at 04:50 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: baton rouge louisiana
we need he increase length due to the dart heads had longer valves.
we needed to go to the 1.5 dia. springs to hold the spring pressure.
we are going to **** off the dodge people. we are putting this in a dart.
not my chose.
we needed to go to the 1.5 dia. springs to hold the spring pressure.
we are going to **** off the dodge people. we are putting this in a dart.
not my chose.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
Just did this on my BBC build. Seems we will finish near the same time. Your just down the road so we'll have to find a way to compare the performance of our builds Though I may have a few cubes on you.
I just installed the pushrods and buttoned up the intake last night.
I went to Ace hardware and bought a light spring to replace the valve spring with. I then just adjusted the rockers (while holding light upward pressue to keep the rocker in contact with the nut). I continued to adjust the polylock until I got the rocker motion that I wanted (a whole nother subject to read up on). When done, I drew a line on my pushrod and measured the movement of the line as I took the pushrod from lifter to rocker (essentially measured the play). Add this to your stock length and order away.
This obviously only works when increasing P/R size. However, I believe going from stamped to roller typically requires same or larger P/R. This saved me 2 checkers at $20 each plus shipping and really wasn't overly inconvenient.
Good luck.
Though I may have a few cubes on you. I just installed the pushrods and buttoned up the intake last night.
I went to Ace hardware and bought a light spring to replace the valve spring with. I then just adjusted the rockers (while holding light upward pressue to keep the rocker in contact with the nut). I continued to adjust the polylock until I got the rocker motion that I wanted (a whole nother subject to read up on). When done, I drew a line on my pushrod and measured the movement of the line as I took the pushrod from lifter to rocker (essentially measured the play). Add this to your stock length and order away.
This obviously only works when increasing P/R size. However, I believe going from stamped to roller typically requires same or larger P/R. This saved me 2 checkers at $20 each plus shipping and really wasn't overly inconvenient.
Good luck.
My build is a mild 383. First engine I ever built up and actually, I had the short block built by Opel Engineering. I worked real hard on the components and believe I have a great set up while trying to keep the numbers matching, heads, manifold and block. No dyno but computer sim done by Billa shows flywheel numbers of 387 HP at 5000, 340 TQ at 1500, 438TQ @ 2500 and 442TQ @ 3750. I guess I left 100HP on the right side of the curve by using stock heads although they are camel humps opened to 2.02/1.6.
CR 9.51 actual and .040 quench.
Trans is a M21 close ratio 3.7 differential.
I would love to get to see some projects in the area. And Roselle is right next door. I know of at least one other build going on close by.
Well have to talk!
Alan
847-891-0954
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Roselle IL
Thanks for the info.
My build is a mild 383. First engine I ever built up and actually, I had the short block built by Opel Engineering. I worked real hard on the components and believe I have a great set up while trying to keep the numbers matching, heads, manifold and block. No dyno but computer sim done by Billa shows flywheel numbers of 387 HP at 5000, 340 TQ at 1500, 438TQ @ 2500 and 442TQ @ 3750. I guess I left 100HP on the right side of the curve by using stock heads although they are camel humps opened to 2.02/1.6.
CR 9.51 actual and .040 quench.
Trans is a M21 close ratio 3.7 differential.
I would love to get to see some projects in the area. And Roselle is right next door. I know of at least one other build going on close by.
Well have to talk!
Alan
847-891-0954
My build is a mild 383. First engine I ever built up and actually, I had the short block built by Opel Engineering. I worked real hard on the components and believe I have a great set up while trying to keep the numbers matching, heads, manifold and block. No dyno but computer sim done by Billa shows flywheel numbers of 387 HP at 5000, 340 TQ at 1500, 438TQ @ 2500 and 442TQ @ 3750. I guess I left 100HP on the right side of the curve by using stock heads although they are camel humps opened to 2.02/1.6.
CR 9.51 actual and .040 quench.
Trans is a M21 close ratio 3.7 differential.
I would love to get to see some projects in the area. And Roselle is right next door. I know of at least one other build going on close by.
Well have to talk!
Alan
847-891-0954
I'll call you this weekend or next.
Larry
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
It would be fun to compare projects. Mine is a '75 and not a numbers deal, just a fun hot rod. It came with a '69 427 (still had many L-88 components left in it), however, it turned out to be a basket case. It will emerge this spring as a 496 (I am expeting 550+ HP). I was able to sell the L-88 heads for $2500 and get some modern heads. I also painted it and re-did the interior this winter.
I'll call you this weekend or next.
Larry
I'll call you this weekend or next.
Larry
Sounds good. Yea I'm not a big numbers matching guy but since I have it I figure I should keep it intact. I need to do alot of body work and get it painted. Did you shoot the paint or have it done. If you had it done, who did it?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Roselle IL
I striped it, did the body work and sprayed it. It came out very nice, but I haven't been able to buff it yet and it doesn't look too impressive after the wet sanding.
I got some estimates and they were more than I paid for the car. I figured it can't be that hard. I sanded so much my shoulder hurt for the whole month of January.
I have a recommendation of a guy who does a lot of classic cars for a buddy of mine. However, I can't speak to his quality first hand.
I got some estimates and they were more than I paid for the car. I figured it can't be that hard. I sanded so much my shoulder hurt for the whole month of January.
I have a recommendation of a guy who does a lot of classic cars for a buddy of mine. However, I can't speak to his quality first hand.
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