Brake bleeding techniques and emergency brake adjustment.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Brake bleeding techniques and emergency brake adjustment.
Hi all!
New to the forum but have made use of the search feature, very informative.
I have just replaced the main front to back brake line on my 76 and also the 3/16 line from master cylinder to the front block.
I have read that gravity bleeding, whilst taking time seems to work fine but am a little confused.
Can I simply crack a rear bleed nipple and just keep master topped up and wait for it to stop flowing bubbles OR do I need to crack rear, wait till fluid starts coming out and then bleed in the old fashioned way of pumping pedal and opening and closing bleed nipple? Does gravity bleeding negate the pedal pumping is basically what Im asking.
The Emergency brake was replaced by the previous owner and a stainless kit was fitted. This was about 1500 miles ago. When it was first installed it was not adjusted up and I prefer the brake lever to be just slightly raised instead of vertical....it just doesnt look right to me! Anyway, on the drivers side, which way do I need to turn the start adjuster to expand the shoes? Do I flip it down with a screw driver or up? and is it opposite for passenger side?
Hope thats not to n00bie for a firts post but this is my first venture into American muscle.
New to the forum but have made use of the search feature, very informative.
I have just replaced the main front to back brake line on my 76 and also the 3/16 line from master cylinder to the front block.
I have read that gravity bleeding, whilst taking time seems to work fine but am a little confused.
Can I simply crack a rear bleed nipple and just keep master topped up and wait for it to stop flowing bubbles OR do I need to crack rear, wait till fluid starts coming out and then bleed in the old fashioned way of pumping pedal and opening and closing bleed nipple? Does gravity bleeding negate the pedal pumping is basically what Im asking.
The Emergency brake was replaced by the previous owner and a stainless kit was fitted. This was about 1500 miles ago. When it was first installed it was not adjusted up and I prefer the brake lever to be just slightly raised instead of vertical....it just doesnt look right to me! Anyway, on the drivers side, which way do I need to turn the start adjuster to expand the shoes? Do I flip it down with a screw driver or up? and is it opposite for passenger side?
Hope thats not to n00bie for a firts post but this is my first venture into American muscle.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
Welcome to the Forum. Regarding gravity bleeding, you can open all bleeder valves at once or do them one at a time. I like to get a cup or so of fluid out of each one. The main thing is keep the master cylinder fluid level up. You don't want it to run dry. I have never had to bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal after the gravity method is complete. And you are right. This is a time consuming job. Someone should chime in about the emergency brake. 
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Thanks Jud, will try the gravity bleeding first....seems like a job that will require several bottles of beer, all that time... 
Am trying to picture the E brake in my mind to work out which way to turn.
Am trying to picture the E brake in my mind to work out which way to turn.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Marcellus NY
Well I am no expert, but when i had to replace the rear wheel studs on my '80 i had to disassemble the e-brake assembly, and there is a pretty easy way to adjust the play in it.
1. take off the wheel and caliper so the rotor can be removed
2. remove the rotor
3. on the bottom of the e-brake assembly there is a screw type object that holds the e-brake pads apart.. funny looking thing with some notches in it so it can be turned with a screwdriver.
4. adjust that object so it spaces the pads a little further out.
5. get a second opinion on what I just instructed, I am no mechanic!!
Currently I am bleeding my breaks, going with the gravity method first. In my front two calipers there seems to be an endless supply of small bubbles, ive gone thru a LOT of fluid! the bleeders are only opened about 1/4 turn, the MC is full and I have to refill it every 15mins or so. am I doing something wrong? The rear didnt seem to have this problem.
well back to the bleeding..
1. take off the wheel and caliper so the rotor can be removed
2. remove the rotor
3. on the bottom of the e-brake assembly there is a screw type object that holds the e-brake pads apart.. funny looking thing with some notches in it so it can be turned with a screwdriver.
4. adjust that object so it spaces the pads a little further out.
5. get a second opinion on what I just instructed, I am no mechanic!!
Currently I am bleeding my breaks, going with the gravity method first. In my front two calipers there seems to be an endless supply of small bubbles, ive gone thru a LOT of fluid! the bleeders are only opened about 1/4 turn, the MC is full and I have to refill it every 15mins or so. am I doing something wrong? The rear didnt seem to have this problem.
well back to the bleeding..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Just replaced my brake lines with SS, new MC, rebuilt power booster, etc. Replaced fluid with DOT 5 and used a Motive power bleeder. Worked great just start with the RR, then LR, then RF, & then LF. Bleed the inside calipers first when doing rear brakes. Also hit them with a rubber mallet and push the calipers away from the rotor by hand--this helps get the air out. Did each wheel 4 times and the brakes work great.
I also replaced the parking brake cables and shoes when I had the Trailing arms done. I am still not happy with the adjustment yet. didn't mess with the star wheel only adjusted the cable tension--but this might not be the best way. Need a parking brake guru.
I also replaced the parking brake cables and shoes when I had the Trailing arms done. I am still not happy with the adjustment yet. didn't mess with the star wheel only adjusted the cable tension--but this might not be the best way. Need a parking brake guru.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
I've been working on my parking brake since Wednesday. Almost done, just some final adjustments to the cable and I'll have a working parking brake! This might help you some, I know it helped me alot. http://rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it for you. I have enough of the old parts still so you'll get the idea of how it works without having to take yours apart.
Remember the screw driver is a lever and the access hole is the fulcrum (the pivot point).
Push down on the screw driver and the brake shoes will shrink.
Push up on the screw driver and the brake pads expand.
As far as if the passenger side is different from the drivers side, the only way to tell is to try. The adjuster can be installed in two directions. If installed correctly, I believe the above is the same for both sides.
Get this adjuster set where the rotor will not turn, then back it off a turn or two, the rotor should spin freely now, then adjust the cables under the car.
It's more trial and error than anything else and familiarizing yourself on how it works.
From what you have said, it sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted, not the sprocket devise at the wheels. I'd look at that first if your parking brake is working.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=25
I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it for you. I have enough of the old parts still so you'll get the idea of how it works without having to take yours apart.
Remember the screw driver is a lever and the access hole is the fulcrum (the pivot point).
Push down on the screw driver and the brake shoes will shrink.
Push up on the screw driver and the brake pads expand.
As far as if the passenger side is different from the drivers side, the only way to tell is to try. The adjuster can be installed in two directions. If installed correctly, I believe the above is the same for both sides.
Get this adjuster set where the rotor will not turn, then back it off a turn or two, the rotor should spin freely now, then adjust the cables under the car.
It's more trial and error than anything else and familiarizing yourself on how it works.
From what you have said, it sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted, not the sprocket devise at the wheels. I'd look at that first if your parking brake is working.
Last edited by 74Blackfoot; May 6, 2008 at 12:58 AM.
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