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I just got an alignment and camber on the rear is off so bad its visible
I was told by the shop this is correct.
This sound rediculous to me -the rear tires are not flat on the ground.
Has any one else hade this issue?
What did the rear camber reading come out as? There are very few shops that will align a C2 or C3 correctly. Fortunately I run one of the few that do, do a C3 alignment properly. If the rear toe is out along with the rest that goes along with a proper 4 wheel alignment on a C3, you should expect to pay the shops labor rate for about 2-3hrs worth of work. If the rear toe is in specs (I actually did have one of those two weeks ago), then it only takes about an hour for the rest. Of course this is based on a car with new parts and nothing frozen up.
camber reading came out as.1 on left and .0 on right it was a four weel alignment, all front suspension is new rear is O.K .
Searching treads I found those weels should be perfectly vertical.
It must go back to the shop.
My books say for "street" the rear camber should be negative 0 to 0.5 degrees, but can be higher if you want to race. This causes the most wheel contact during driving as the suspension moves up and down.
I believe these are for a 68-69, so you may want to check for your year car.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Rather than going by the "book" I'd suggest following the recommended alignment settings from VB&P which suit your purposes, with zero tolerance for differences from side to side. Just my $.02...
Get a block of wood cut to fit the outer rim distance. Put a level on it and set the camber yourself. Or you could by a protracter from Sears, and dial it in.
camber reading came out as.1 on left and .0 on right it was a four weel alignment, all front suspension is new rear is O.K .
Searching treads I found those weels should be perfectly vertical.
It must go back to the shop.
.1 shouldn't be visible. If that was the readout and there is visible camber on the rear wheels, their aligner needs to be calibrated - badly.
They may have not settled the car after changing the alignment. I need to roll mine back and forth and bounce it up and down a few time after adjusting and before checking. That said, I would prefer a small amount of neg camber. Straight up and down although best for a drag car, will go to positive camber in a corner, which isn't best.
My '70 owner's manual says .5 to 1.0 degree (written thus- .75+-.25 degrees) negative camber at the rear. Not sure, but I would believe this to be typical for all '63-'82 Vettes. At any rate minus one degree would be barely visible so if yours is pronounced I would (like Batman sez) suspect it to be way out. Good luck getting it fixed- finding alignment shops that know how to deal with Corvettes can be tricky....
My '70 owner's manual says .5 to 1.0 degree (written thus- .75+-.25 degrees) negative camber at the rear. Not sure, but I would believe this to be typical for all '63-'82 Vettes. At any rate minus one degree would be barely visible so if yours is pronounced I would (like Batman sez) suspect it to be way out. Good luck getting it fixed- finding alignment shops that know how to deal with Corvettes can be tricky....
Which is why I went to doing my own alignments long ago, with aide from this forum....do a search, find out how to do your own in your concrete garage, turns out perfect....been some 4-5? years now, not nearly hard as it loiks and not rocket science either....lazer schmazer, no more snowballing.....
my guess is the "tech" didn't pull the pins in the rear turn plates after jacking the car & letting it down, thats one big advantage to the latest and greatest alignment machines, no jacking required to get a car set up for an alignment. my guess would also be that your rear toe numbers are a little suspect as well