I want to convert my automatic transmission to a manual transmission. Let me first say that I am on a budget - so calling up keisler and ordering one of their conversion kits is not an option. The motor will have a little more than 400 HP and around 430 ft/lbs of torque. I will be beating this car into the ground, so I am looking for a manual tranny candidate which can be beefed up - I'd like to keep my budget somewhere around $1500. I will be rebuilding it myself. Time is not an issue.

 

Your basic Muncie should be fine for your application. Since a lot of these cases and gear sets are pretty hammered, you might want to start fresh and build it with one of Auto Gear's Super Cases and new gear sets.

http://www.autogear.net/literature3.htm

 

I saw one for sale here on the forum recently for around $500. Your biggest headache is going to be the pedals.

 

This thread will let you know what's needed in case you need it also the link in this thread has alot of info.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2025110

 

I wrote a several-page article on this subject a couple years back when I converted my '70 to an M20 along with a detailed parts and price list. Everything on mine either came from fleabay or was new and the ENTIRE job (every last nut, bolt, clip, gasket, washer, etc.) came in at about $2200. Worth every dime too, I might add. PM or email me if you'd like the info.

 

Gonna cost you a least 2 g's I went with a 700R4 at first... built it up.. then went manua with a tremec. SOld the 700r4 for 1500, bought the Tremec for 2900. Got most of the stuff from Ebay or new.
I got the TKO 500 3:27 forst, but I have a 3:55 rear.

Best thing I ever did. There is a guy who sells peda kits on the forum. DO a search. That was hard racking down

 

I just swapped my TH350 to a ST-10, cost me around 1600. Hardest part for me was getting the clutch adjusted right with a after market billet flywheel/clutch setup. After all of the adjusting I bent the rod from the clutch pedal and when to a hydraulic clutch from a 85 GMC. Installed it, bled it and it just plain worked no headache involved. Would be even better to get a bellhousing from a 85 GMC to go along with that then you won't have to make a bracket. If you need any other info pm me I saved a list of all the stuff I bought and what it cost.

 

This is exactly what I would like to do...I have a 76 with a TH-350, found a 4speed from a 74 at the junk yard...would like to transfer the two?? How hard was it?

 

I'm always thrilled to see another enthusiast make this decision, as converting my SA from auto to manual was probably the best thing I ever did for it, including the BB. It is not for the faint of heart, but most definitely worth the "trouble". Greatly enhances the driving experience, if you ask me.

I've had both, and IMHO the Muncie is the superior value to the T-10. (Lighter too.) Recommend a wide ratio for any rear gear taller (smaller numbers) than 3.73:1, above which you may opt for a close ratio should your purposes dictate. Make sure you get one with the 1" counter shaft, which pretty much rules out any unit prior to 1966. The M22 close ratio will take more punishment due primarily to having straighter cut cogs. Fortunately, AutoGear has an "M22" Wide gearset, and I'm planning one for my own rebuild. I wouldn't bother considering the "OD" Muncie gearset for a Vette, in which top gear is actually substituted in place of 3rd. In any event, if you tear into a Muncie for any reason, I'd at least upgrade to an HD mid-plate. It's relatively cheap added insurance.

Other tips...

The pedals are the hardest part, and important to get exactly right. Don't slip into "Bubba mode" here (or anywhere else on this project for that matter). Speaking of such, don't make a mess of cutting the tunnel out for the shifter. Get the proper lower boot and use it as a template. Got mine from Paragon (#2394).

Use the AIM procedure for adjusting the clutch linkage and you'll be miles ahead. Fork ball height, in relation to the flywheel/disk interface, is a critical spec. If using an aftermarket bell, such as LW w/engine plate, this can cause grief when not right on the money. Also, don't skip dialing in the bell housing so it is both concentric with the crank and parallel to the flywheel. (BTW, I've got a spare LW w/new plate available.)

IMHO, diaphragm type pressure plates are generally the best choice for most applications, and you ought to be able to find one suited to your purposes. A lightweight flywheel (~15#) will make syncing gears easier for you and place much less stress on the driveline. (Have a couple of those available, too.)

Don't ever install a solid trans mount unless you like breaking cases. TCI recently published findings that they are responsible for something like 70% or more of broken trans cases. I would suggest using only an OEM type mount, or maybe poly if you have poly or solid motor mounts.

Also, the factory shifter is simply a PoS, its primary flaw being that it doesn't mount directly to the trans. Just get a Hurst Comp Plus and be happy. You can always get a stock appearing lever for it if you want that factory look. (Those who have never tried one don't know what they are missing.) There's a sequential shifter for the Muncie by Renagate (this is NOT a drag strip type piece), but I haven't seen any feedback on it from any Vette owner, and don't know if it fits either the C2 or C3 without modification.

Google "Muncie transmission" and you'll find a wealth of info and a good number of resources, but be sure to not overlook http://www.5speeds.com/index.html . Paul is a member, and Gear Rhonda rocks.

Hope that's worth $.02

 

I am only lacking the clutch, pressure-plate, and the frame mount, and I've got around a grand invested. Just gotta be willing to shop around for the best deals. From the work your doing to the body, looks like you have some time to wait for some good deals. I've found some awesome deals here on the forum. Much better than evilbay. Plus I'd rather buy from someone that cares about these cars like I do, rather than some hachet man on that auction site. Good luck