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Shock Mount SOS

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Old May 17, 2008 | 02:38 AM
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Default Shock Mount SOS


Ok, now that i have that out of my system. I've convinced myself that I am doing something horribly wrong installing my new shock mounts. Ok, the front flange coming off the bottom of trailing arm (houses the strut rod end) has a flat spot aligning with the flat spot on the shock mount shaft which feeds through it. Problem is this flat spot is only present on the first 1" or so of the shaft after which it does not pass completely through the strut rod, trailing arm flange assembly. If I feed it from the other direction it goes through no problem.

What painfully obvious fact have I overlooked? I thought I may have installed the trailing arms backwards but verified AIM and photo's on Stingers restore.. the forked flange has to be pointing down.

Someone please set me straight here... now I'm off to apologize to the neighbors.. they probably heard some things from my garage tonight that they shouldn't have.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 03:56 AM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Sounds like your LH & RH bearing supports are swapped with each other, if that's possible, and thus the ends with the flats are oriented incorrectly.

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; May 17, 2008 at 05:04 AM.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 04:15 AM
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Well that would make sense, what confuses me is that I didn't have the trailing arms rebuilt. Some where in its past they must have just 'forced' the old shock mounts in there. To check my sanity I tried putting the old ones back in and they didn't fit any better than the new ones.

I do plan on replacing the trailing arms at some point, but this year is out of the question.. just splurged for the suspension/front end/brake overhaul.

Any suggestions to salvage what I have without disassembling the trailing arms. Don't know that I'm ready for that project yet. Maybe shave a little off the flange to allow the mount to fit? It fit together before, unfortunately I know better now.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 05:00 AM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Are you certain the bearing supports/carriers weren't recently detached from the TA's? (Note that bearing replacement requires such removal.) If you've had bearing work done, I'd check that the end play is properly setup from 0.001-0.008" (0.001" being the racing spec), whatever course you decide on. And yes, it would be a PITA to swap them back if this is indeed the case, as you'd have to remove the stubs again, but it's the right thing to do.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 05:37 AM
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You are shoving them in from the front to back right? The flat spot should be in the bottom rear bore of the strut rod support on both sides.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 09:08 AM
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Flat spot should be on the ear closest to the rear bumper - this is for both bearing supports. Post some pics for us.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Easiest answer is that you're trying to put the left shock mount on the right side. Lets hope it's that easy any way. The other options are a lot of work.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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The shock mounts also have a fluted section similar to a wheel stud to help keep the mount from twisting. You shouldn't be able to slide the mount on all the way, you have to put the nut on and draw the mount up tight. Make sure you raise the trailing arm up some before you do this so that the stud goes straight through the lower shock mount. If you tighten the mount up with the arms down it's possible to end up with the stud going through the mount at an angle.

Do a search on shock mounts and you will find more info. There was a thread covering this not long ago with better explanations than mine and pics.



Rick B.
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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When I replaced the trailing arms and strut rods on my 1979 L-82 I ordered new shock bolts from Corvette Central. They sent me two left sides, but one was marked left side and one was marked right side. I laid under the rear of my car in frustration trying to figure out what going or if I was crazy. I finally discovered the problem and sent the bolt back that was marked right and they sent me the correct one. Those bolts are too expensive to force in incorrectly. GM still has them available, but they are around $117 each discount price.
Ken
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Old May 17, 2008 | 01:41 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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What's PN do you have for those factory "bolts", as I couldn't locate them under #'s 3829265-66 (HD service).

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Old May 17, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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I don't know what the part numbers were. I went to a friend who is the parts manager at the local Chevy dealer. He checked and said they were available through GM and my price would be $117 each. I told him no thanks and ordered them from Corvette Central for $39.95 each. When I need a part I always check GM first and compare with the after market price. I bought all new emblems and parking lights from GM when I painted my car.

Ken
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Old May 17, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Charlie...(Theshunkworks)
If you are interested in the parts numbers for the GM shock bolts, I'll go by the Chevy dealer and have my friend give me the current numbers he found. I'm leaving for Myrtle Beach in the morning for a week, but I'll be glad to check on the numbers for you when I return.
Ken
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Old May 17, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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It's not really that important at present, so don't make a special trip on my account. Was just wondering if they were the old HD's or not. Thought it strange that the Power Book recommended and service replacement PN's in my GM 1953-1982 Corvette Parts catalog were one in the same, but not available thru GM Parts Direct as far as I could tell. Thanks, anyway.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 03:38 AM
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Sorry guys I got sidetracked helping a friend move some railroad ties today and didn't get any time in the garage at all. Thanks for all the feed back on this one!! Skunkworks has the problem nailed down for me. What doesn't add up is how the old shock mounts fit in there at all. All that I've done to the trailing arms is replace the bushing and clean them up a bit, so you would expect that I could put them right back in as they were. The new mounts matched what I pull out originally. So they are correct at least in that respect. What also puzzles me is that I remember thinking how easily everything came apart as I disassembled the rear suspension. You'd think if those things had been jammed in there that I would have had some problems getting them out.

I'll pop in the garage in the morning and take some pics, this is not a fun predicament to find when you thought you were an alignment away from taking her out of hibernation and hitting the road.

Thanks again for all the advice guys!
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Old May 18, 2008 | 04:50 PM
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From: Wasilla Alaska
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Cell phone pics are as good as I can get for now. Here's reference for anyone who finds themselves in a similar predicament.

Shock mount feeding backwards through the flange


This is as far as the shock mount feeds though in the proper position because of the flanges being reversed.



Still haven't figured out what I'm going to do here. Floors me that it was working this way before.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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Perhaps you can have the flat milled all the way to the end, It shouldn't affect anything and this is the cheaper part to replace later on if inclined to do so.
It would get you on the road right away.

Don't feel too bad.
I just took my mounts off yesterday and noticed the previous owner had mounted the shocks upside down.


Last edited by noonie; May 18, 2008 at 05:09 PM.
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Old May 18, 2008 | 07:47 PM
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Noonie, how does Bubba find the time to work on sooooooo many cars

I was kicking around the idea of milling it down like you said, I think that's what I'll end up doing... summers are too short up here to waste valuable cruizin' time up on jackstands in the garage!

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Old May 19, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by thegazman
He checked and said they were available through GM and my price would be $117 each. I told him no thanks and ordered them from Corvette Central for $39.95 each.

The repro shock mount/strut rod attach "bolts" are dimensionally different that the original GM. Particularly, the shank of the repro bolt is bigger in diameter than the original. At least this was true of the repro bolts I bought and compared to the original.

I too would be interested in knowing what the current GM part number is.
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