Young69Owner

So I've recently upgraded my alternator from 42 Amps to 63 Amps. I would like to ask a few questions. I looked up an electric 16" Syclone fan that blows 2,500 cfm and draws 17 Amps. I also looked up a electric CSR Aluminum water pump that flows 30 to 37 gpm and draws 5.8 Amps.

Is it safe to add a peak 22.8 Amps to my system? Is 2,500 cfm as much or more than my flex fan blows (Is it enough)? Will the fan fit/how does it mount? Can I plug both items directly into my alternator (it says 12 V and I know the wiper motor is 7.5 V)? Is 30 gpm of coolant enough (does the fact that it is Aluminum help at all with its cooling properties)? I've heard of these plastic fans melting. How can I know if this is an issue? Thanks for an info you fellas can give.

SIXFOOTER

First off you would be cutting it a bit close with that alternator and an electric fan and pump/ It sounds like the fan is a pretty good one and the 1500 ft should do you fine in most cases. Don't know why you went with an electric pump, I wouldn't have on a street motor, but the reliability is way better than it used to be. I don't remember what the numbers were but someone posted in here a year or so ago the flow numbers for stock and Stuart Warner hi Flow pumps.
So, a bigger alt (80a at least). tie the fan and pump thru a relay directly to the alternator output and make sure your temp gauge is working correctly

Young69Owner

You are right. I will not get the electric pump - bad idea. The other engineers here say I will not really save anything, and if it cuts off, I'm done. It's not a good investment.

Moroso makes a water pump that claims to save 14 hp, however, it can't take more than a few to turn the stock pump. The guys here say no way and they want to see calcs.

So, all I'll be doing is the electric fan. Are there any C3 kits out there? Can a 63 Amp alternator support the addition of a fan? Would it take more than 17 Amps every time it spins up? Or is 17 Amps the startup current?

Mike Ward

You've used good deductive reasoning to understand why electric pumps do not save energy compared to a conventional pump.

The same logic applies to electric fans. No savings.

Do actually you have a cooling problem?

sly vette

I have dual spals with the standard 63 amp alt with no problems.
However at this time I have very little else going on concerning draw. Now after I install my amp and radio things may change...we'll see.

Young69Owner

I don't have a cooling problem. My car has a 195 degree thermostat and still runs 160 unless I sustain 90+ mph for a while (like on a racetrack), then it'll hit 195. It doesn't make much sense other than my upgraded radiator, but I'm happy with it. I thought that when I was done doing the T-5 conversion, this would be a logical next step, since my car would rarely need the fan, especially with a 0.75 overdrive. Doesn't spinning a fan when you don't need it waste some amount of energy? I go by the fact that all modern cars have thermostatically controlled electric fans and none have electric water pumps.

I do have a custom stereo that should be capable of 1500 Watts of output. Say it was taking 360 Watts on any given day (I have no clue). Would it use 360 W/12 V = 30 A? I guess I need to know how much current a stock '69 uses. My 42 A alternator powered my stereo fine. So would adding a fan rated at 21 A or less to a 63 A Alternator be completely safe?

Can anyone recommend any fans designed for our cars? I'd pay an extra $100 not to have to do any fab work as I think most of you would too.

Sully1882

truely the simple easy solution is to upgrade to a CS 144 type alt. Search the junkyards and you can find them cheep, from what I am told. I did this on my 72 coupe and I simply went to autozone and asked for a 1993-1996 Impala SS alternator. I then got the correct style plug that made this alt upgrade a plug and play. the clocking of the bolt pattern was exact and I just dropped it in after changing the pulley over from a serp one to a v-belt one. It runs my electric fan great and I will have plenty of power for when I install the stereo components. PM me if you need some more info or just do a search for a CS 144 alt.

hth,

Sully

Mike Ward

Spinning a fan when you don't need is spot on- that's why your car originally came with a thermostatic clutch for the fan. It 'releases' when no fan cooling is required.

Seems that Bubba downgraded your car by installing a flex fan in place of the very efficient stock assembly.

62C1

I have a dual Spal fan setup and am running an electric water pump. I upgraded my SI alternator to 94 amps and have no problem keeping the battery charged even though I only run the car for short periods when racing. I initially used a Summit electric pump rated at 37 GPH. This would be fine for a drag car but it didn't work for autocross or road course. I went with a Stewart high flow pump which puts out 160 GPM. This has worked well for racing. I also installed a Stewart inline electric pump. This boosts flow 300% together with the mechanical pump but the really nice thing is between runs I can cool the car by letting the electric pump and fans run. I have a portable battery box I plug in to run these so I won't drain the car battery. This setup cools the car from 220/230 after a long hard run to under 140 within five minutes. This works great in the Texas heat.

V-Rod

Dewitt sell's the Spal fan's you can find his link on the left under Cooling. You can buy them seperate or already mounted to a Aluminum radiator. installation is so easy even a caveman can do it.