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I haven't used my car for a good while and decided to take it for a ride. My gauge read 1/4 so off to the pump. It only took 5 gallons and stopped. I figured that this is impossible so i looked through and normally, i would be able to see the gas if it's full. It wasn't but every time I put the nozzle in, the tank will reject the gas and will not allow the nozzle to pump gas into it. What's wrong with my tank???? What should I do???? I also have an older F250 with dual tanks and the rear tank is doing the same thing as well. PLEASE HELP!!! Thank you!!!
Are you sticking the whole nozzle in the tank? If so, maybe the sensor on the gas nozzle is getting splashed with gas and shutting off. Around here we have those horrible plastic/rubber things on the nozzles and I have to hold it up and slowly pour gas into the car. That way I get a full tank. If I just shove the nozzle into the tank and walk away, I'll only get about 5 gallons worth.
Been there and done that. In the past, I would just leave the nozzle in place and it'll fill up with no problem. As I have said, same thing is also happening to my truck and luckily, it has 2 tanks so we're not really that concerned.
Talking about coincidence, a friend of mine just called and asked me the same question since his car is doing the same thing.
Anybody here have had the same problem? What is causing this? Any suggestions on what I should do will be greatly appreciated.
Try filling up a 5 gallon tank, the red plastic road side assistance types. Try the nozzle in all the way, and at various angles and see if the pumps shuts off.
Are you fueling at the same place every time or are you going to different places?
Regarding my '76, if I leave the nozzle all the way in when fueling, it will shut off early. To correct this, I pull the nozzle out leaving maybe just an inch or 2 of it in and continue pumping at a very slow rate. It will then take another 2 gallons or so. Give it a try.
Been there....done that. The bladder has collapsed. Time for a new tank...
As for the truck....it's a friggin Ford!!! Buy a Chevy!!!!
OK, I get the hint but where is this "bladder"? Is there a way around this like maybe replace it or something?
The friend I was referring to has a 76 Toyota and said that it just suddenly did that wherein he can only put in 5 gallons.
The truck a different story, it's a big block 460 and with gas prices, I won't be using it far enough to need to use the second tank. It's also beefed up with dual carbs, cam, headers, lifted, 4 speed 4X, etc.
Maybe I'll just use the motor on a boat.......lol
I don't know for sure if your 1981 has a bladder or not. But assuming that it does.
On my 1975 (first year for the internal fuel tank bladder) you need to drop the tank. The metal fueling unit unbolts from the top and you need to gain access to it. The top portion of the bladder also forms a seal between the fueling unit and the tank proper. Unbolt the fueling unit. You can now pull the bladder out of the tank. You will need to cut the top portion of the bladder and reuse it to form the seal between the fueling unit and the tank. I have never seen any vendor selling bladders (probably because there is a huge liability potential.)
GM added the bladder as an additional safety component in case of a rear end collision. Assuming that your metal fuel tank is in good shape, i.e. not corroded. The tank will function very well without the bladder. (In fact you will probably gain an additional gallon or so of tank capacity.)
BTW, the same goes for the spare tire in the carrier - a fully inflated spare is part of the rear end energy management system in case of a rear end collision.
If you are having this problem on more than one vehicle, I would experiment with the position of the fuel nozzle, and speed of the fuel going in prior to fuel tank maintenance. Cheers.
If you are having this problem on more than one vehicle, I would experiment with the position of the fuel nozzle, and speed of the fuel going in prior to fuel tank maintenance. Cheers.
Tommy
We kept on getting the same issue at any gas station but I will try and do just as you and others have said before we take down the tank.
I don't know for sure if your 1981 has a bladder or not. But assuming that it does.
On my 1975 (first year for the internal fuel tank bladder) you need to drop the tank. The metal fueling unit unbolts from the top and you need to gain access to it. The top portion of the bladder also forms a seal between the fueling unit and the tank proper. Unbolt the fueling unit. You can now pull the bladder out of the tank. You will need to cut the top portion of the bladder and reuse it to form the seal between the fueling unit and the tank. I have never seen any vendor selling bladders (probably because there is a huge liability potential.)
GM added the bladder as an additional safety component in case of a rear end collision. Assuming that your metal fuel tank is in good shape, i.e. not corroded. The tank will function very well without the bladder. (In fact you will probably gain an additional gallon or so of tank capacity.)
BTW, the same goes for the spare tire in the carrier - a fully inflated spare is part of the rear end energy management system in case of a rear end collision.
Jim
Jim,
Would you say the same goes with our truck and my friend's car as well?
Were these bladders installed in earlier years? Do newer cars have these? I may sound so naive but it's true and just very curious. Thanks by the way for your input.
I don't recall reading or hearing about any other vehicles (other than Corvettes) that used an aircraft type bladder in their fuel tanks. I am not even sure if the C4 Vettes had one.
Evidently, Chevrolet engineering (or GM legal) felt that the C3 fuel tank was vulnerable enough to warrant the bladder.
Oh, I guess I have to research on that. Thank you for sharing, we've had this problem with the truck for about 2 years now and it sure was boggling. It wasn't until the same happened to the car and my friend's car that made me realize that "something" truly is wrong.
Thanks again here's to a great day.