Does anybody have a picture of the tract bar installed on their car? I am going to be installing mine tomorrow and just wanted a picture for reference.

 

Never seen or heard about it. Post up when you get yours installed. I would like to see what it is you are talking about.

 

What kind of car are you installing them on?

 

I've heard about traction bars that are sometimes installed on the leaf springs that run parallel to the rear wheels. I've seen these things on the 67-69 camaros and on some of the late 70s to early 80s trans ams and firebirds, but I've never seen them on a corvette. The C3 has a single transverse leaf spring on the rear. JustinD do you mean stabilizer bar?

 

This is the bar:
here
and this is an example of what I'm talking about.

 

The traction bars at VB&P and Justin's are for '63-'79 Corvettes with the 4-bolt spring plate. Here is the traction bar I made for my '80 with the 3-bolt plate. I used a solid motor mount in the front and a bracket I welded up in the back. It solved my wheel hop problem.

 

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Here is their bracket and my bar.

 

I hope you have true duals with no crossover pipe in the way. (The old SSM bar used the same concept and used to specify that it was for use with true dual exhaust.)

This is actually just a rear end locating bar that reduce rear end "wiggle" under load. It is not a true traction bar.

The alternative is to use the Guldstrand rear end locating kit with the aluminum crossmember and pumpkin donuts. These do not require any bars and also firm up the rear ends location.

 

I don't have a x-pipe just true duals so I should be fine.

 

Toddalin is on the money here. http://www.guldstrandmotorsports.com...?idproduct=122

But if you can do some fab work you could make these real easy. If you need the size I will be happy to give you the info.

 

How do those work?

 

All these devises do is to take the "play" out of the rear end so the power is transferred to the ground rather than into rear end wiggle.

 

Hi there all, i`m new here but had a vette for 25+yrs , i would agree with toddalin

[This is actually just a rear end locating bar that reduce rear end "wiggle" under load. It is not a true traction bar.

The alternative is to use the Guldstrand rear end locating kit with the aluminum crossmember and pumpkin donuts. These do not require any bars and also firm up the rear ends location. ]

The diff is the item that is wobbling about on rubber bushings which could cause the rear suspension to alter it`s alignment. Plus it could wip up/down at the front diff mount as the rubber there, if like mine was, soft rubber. I replaced this rubber mount with poly mount from vette/brakes and made my own crossmember `doughnut` plates from some 1/4" plate...i did this some 13 years ago, and if i remember correctly you will also need to put a spacer between the crossmember `doughnut/plate` and up inside the crossmember/rubber mount because you have to use the same bolt (but longer ) to pull it all together. Or if you just pull it all up with no spacer you effectively bolt up solid the rear crossmember (might also strain the rubber mount!). I spaced mine some 10 or 20 thou from the rubber mount to keep the ride good but still acted as a stop if i started throwing the car around. I also note that the `link` type that is fixed to the bottom of the diff to the crossmember, also allows vibration to travel from the diff to the entire rest of the car.This may be a concern you may like to take into consideration...if not a concern you might as well just remove the rubber mount and put a solid metal spacer in !!.

I think a poly bushing is as hard as you would want to go.

 

For the locating kit if you make it yourself you can use longer studs that would enable you to put a nut and a washer in the same place as the bolt went in stock and torque that down and then put the plate on with the nut and torque that as well.


For the pinion you can go with the poly but keep the original washers to modify to use as the washers that come with the kit are thin and in my simple opinion only good for skipping across a pond lol. Or you can go solid and keep things a bit more tight. If you would like to know the size let me know and I will find out before I button things up back there.

 

Ha Ha, now that you mention it, i remember doing the same . I think i used it for a shim some where else.

 

Looks like it locates the third member and prevents shifting similar to axle wrap in a leaf spring/solid axle set up. Very cool for drag racing, not sure what it does for ground clearance though.

Kelly

 

I just fabricated one of these for my vette and my initial ride was MUCH better as far as eliminating wheel hop in a fast acceleration. I will be testing this more as I have time

 

I know what is does for ground clearance - about 1/2" less than my full length headers and 1" less than my oil pan.







If any of these things hit ground, I've already scraped up my from spoiler pretty good.

 

Didn't help to much in the traction department for me. I think drag radials are a better investment.

 

Probably helps more the worse the bushings are as there is more existing slop in the system and the bar limits the slop.

I replaced all my bushings with the Guldstrand kit. It firms things up but does transmit more harshness into the car.