no luck for me either.that may be one of the reasons he is changing the forum .it does go down for a day or so .the new forum should have more options and more dependeble .

 

Were the wiring direction for the '85 pump correct. I should have gone with the 85 and still may.

Thanks again for all your help.

- John

 

I believe the pump I got was an Airtex. A new type plug came with it, and it had to be spliced in. Follow the directions closely & study the wire configuration and you should be ok. I didn't have to reset my regulator after the install. At least I got lucky with something.

After all I read about 82 fuel pumps, & should have changed it when I had the tank out.

 

Dirtbuster1 ...Good news!

A "few" years back my 92 Isuzu 4X4 pick-up truck with a factory 3.1 V6 had it's fuel pump go. Dealer item at $350 for the pump! Looked at it and determined that altough it was "fat" it's length was about the same as the GM standard Delco pumps. Went down to Autozone and paid $29for a 1992 Chevy S-10 (4.3) pickup fuel pump...had it back in ...in 30 minutes.

Still using that old truck on my farm to move trailers around, frame is rotted, but it always starts...the pump has about 100K on it.

Ed

 

Drove the car again this morning. It should have cranked at 1200RPM's & it cranked at 650 RPM's. The engine runs good with the exception of a rough idle.

Hopefully my WinALDL cable & software will arrive today or tommorow. I can then track down the problems that still exist.

At least I can drive it now!

 

GOOD JOB!!! AND FOR THE RECORD I ALWAYS HAVE A PROBLEM LOGGING IN OVERTHERE TOO. Also keep an eye on your TBs for leaking. I have heard the extra pressure will find a weak gasket area.

 

Everythings has been rebuilt. The injectors were sent off for repair & calibration. If I disconnect the injector plugs, there's no leakage. I will probably readjust my idle screw on the rear TB to bring the RPM up to 500 at idle. I jst want to see if the ECM resets everything before I do that.

 

Out of 10 times over the past year I have gotten in once

 

http://www.crossfireinjection.net/if you need help on your tb ,try these guys they are from the cross-fire forum .

 

I emailed them 2 days ago & have not gotten a reply yet.

Thanks

 

You have me all mixed up here. Is it an IAC problem, a leaky injector problem or has some one messed with the adjustment screw on the TBI's?

Jim

 

It's an assortment of problems. I don't know whats going on. I have replaced ECM,O2,CTS & 2 AIC motors. I just got thru making sure that the ECM is going into open & closed loop with the diagnostic mode.

Whats got me stumped is why isn't the engine reving up when cold. Starts pointing back to the CTS again. If I'm not wrong this sensor controls the IAC motors. It tells them when to open or close. I need to go back and look at this.

Hope this clears it up some.

 

Went back to check the CTS sensor & one of the butt spice wires slid right out. That should make the car think it's colder ( more resistance ) but it might not had enough voltage to adjust the IAC motors. I want know until the morning when its cold, but it might just be the problem. Just enough connection not to throw a code.

The CTS sensor was putting out 270 ohms at around 180F.

Maybe I'll get lucky!

 

I know wrong thread but its hard to find a bunch of 82 owners grouped up. I have a Random tech high flow direct bolt in cat for 82's. I went dauls so I do not need it. Its like new and has very low miles. Paid 240.00 asking 75.00 shipped. PM me if interested so we dont bust up this thread.

Dirtbuster my car had similar problems and a new ECM got it somewhat going again. It would die and never start again unless you primed the TB's. Now my idle varies, one day it runs perfect and the next day it wont stay running or it dies when I come to a stop. It acts like its flooded when you try to restart it but it does fire back up. It also surges around 3000 rpm in most gears. One problem could be the Trick flow heads and the 327/350hp L79 cam on the stock ECM. It deos run great when the pedal is down.

 

I appreciate the offer, but I put a new one on durring my restro. The price is right. If I buy anymore spare parts, I want know where to put them. Scrap prices for converters has been bring alot of money, check it out.

What would we do with our spare time if these things ran right.

 

Herb,

I just found your thread on the Corvette Forum.


It occurs to me that you had one of the TBs off the lid due to the TPS screw issue. Did you rebalance the TBs after you put that one back on? I doubt that is your problem becuase if the balance was jazzed up, your idle would be bad all the time, not just hot. And of course it has nothing to do with IAC, CTS, etc issues that you are having.


I don't remeber what I have suggested for you to check, so forgive me if I'm repetitious.


Are you certain that you did not close up one of the swirl plates when the lid was off? You can look down into the TB bore and see them.

If the IACs are not moving together and they are both new, and you are using a known good ECM, then I have to assume that the wiring is bad somewhere. Have you heard about 'black wire'? That's where corrosion turns the wire black and creeps back thru the wire under the insulation. The resistance goes up and up and up and you cannot see anything externally. Very common on old cars in humid climates.

Can you check the resistance in the IAC wiring between the ECM and the IAC connector?

Combined with your CTS problems, I think you have bad wiring or a partial short somewhere that's bleeding off enough current that the ECM can't operate the IAC motors reliably.


If you have a good idle cold and it goes bad hot, I don't see how it could be the TBs as they are simple mechanical items that do not change between cold and hot.


So if you look at what DOES change, it would have to be something that contributes to closed loop (MAP, O2, IAC,CTS, RPM) and is not active during open loop.

If the IACs are not moving together, you MUST get that fixed before you can go the the next step.

WinALDL will be a huge help . . somehow I thought you already had that. It won't help much with the IAC issue though because the ECM only commands one wire for both IACs. If the IACs are not moving together, the only reason the ECM might be the cause is if the voltage is just too low to drive both IACs simultaneously. You mentioned that the diagnostic cycles the IACs. Do they move together in unison and at the same speed? Is it possible to check the voltage while they are running in diagnostic mode?

Just throwing some ideas into the mix.

 

i would check the tps switch.put it on a volt meter and check that it operates smooth.

 

I have WinALDL data. I don't have reference data to compare to. I can't copy the data that I have or find the log file. Does anyone have any suggestions on this software.

Help

 

I don't know if this is the info you want but.....

The log file is in the WinALDL directory. I open the file with "Notepad." Then I copy the entire text and paste it into an Excell spreadsheet. Once it is in excell, the data becomes much easier to understand.

I don't have any "baseline" data to compare my files with.

According to the lenght of the data file, the spreadsheet can be rather large.

BTW: Thanks for your posts on the crossfire. I am alway looking for things that help me understand it better.

 

If you have any data that you could share, that would be helpfull.

Thanks