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Bryan, (as long as we are bustin chops! :) ) How do you get that shiny aluminum finish on your strut rods?? :) (Are those strut rods? I'm a little weak on corvette anatomy) MJ
hahahahaha. That shiny aluminum finish was shiny aluminum foil. Used it to bubba rap them so they would not get overspray on them when we primered the car. But thanks for noticing :lol: :lol: :lol:
Very nice Neil......What most of us wouldn't give to be able to get at our frames like that.
Btw, guys, that TV advertisment for "tossing another shrimp on the barbie" was one of the most un-Australian ads that has ever been shown irregardless of the fact that Hoges was in it. Firstly we call them prawns not shrimps and secondly we'd never waste a good prawn on a BBQ. Chops and snags are the go for a good Aussie BBQ. Come on over and I'll shout the stubbies.
Explanations to follow as requested. :cheers:
Powder coating has never caused me any problems in 20 years of having it done apart from:
1) Make sure lead solder isn't used on any part to be coated :bb
2) It's a real PITA to remove
3) Getting good electrical earths (grounds) can be difficult (use valve grinding paste under the head of an old bolt, place in hole & revolve until bare metal is exposed through the powder coat. Fit the correct bolt with a plain washer under the head. This will give a good earth & prevent rusting). Tip for the day!
I've had all sorts of things powder coated, including thin alloy mounting brackets for brake calipers, & have never had a problem with warping (yet!). The only problem I've ever had is when I chucked an ornamental light in with some stuff for coating - I was handed back as a pile of gloss black parts with splashes of solder all over it :lol: (well, I didn't know it was soldered together!)
Chrome plating causes some metals to get very brittle (M/cycle wheel spokes for one), so I wouldn't risk doing my driveshafts unless somebody else has done it without any problems.
VHT do a good high temp clear coat.
Didn't realise that you could get Hammerite over there. It's good stuff (not as good as powder coat as it gets chipped easier), but they also do Smoothrite which doesn't have the hammered finish. When painting with it you MUST get a coat (of paint) on within 3 hours of the last coat, as it starts to cure otherwise. Once it starts to cure then you have to wait 6 weeks b4 you can paint it again :( If you try putting another coat on once it's started curing then it reacts & become a real mess (and yes, I've done that as well!). Currently using it on some of my parts, but each coat is taking so long to dry due to the cold that a quick paint job is taking 1/2 the night (I need to send all the bits to somebody in Australia to paint them in the warm!). All my friends in Aussie are (constantly) telling me how hot it is out there - all I did was mention that we're due snow today & I got a pic sent of a load of them on a Beach, drinking stubbies, clear blue skies, bikinis..... :cry
Bob,
powder coating requires 20 minutes at 180° C.
Straightening the shafts is done with a torch.
The heat there is much more excessive!!! About 1200 to 1500 ° C, depending on the flame.
Powdercoating does not hurt, I did it on my car too and.......
Therefore I painted my shafts RED, I gained 15 HP more!!!! :jester :cheers:
Frank... I was told that the temps used in the powder coating process were much higher than what you've qouted, but nevertheless I'll comply with the recommendations of the guy who did my shafts. Tho I still plan to powder coat plenty of other parts before they go back on.
I'd really like to have the brake calipers done, but haven't found anyone yet to discuss this with. I will have to order in the special colour I would like but that's not my concern. Again it's just a matter of finding someone who's done it before as I haven't heard this mentioned yet.
'The other thing I'm curious about is the dual mounted fibreglass spring you guys have. I've got VB's 330lb glass spring sitting here ready to slot into my car, but I like the double mount system as well as the fact it totally removes the stress from the diff cover. Is the spring that's used with the dual mounts the same as the standard spring they sell or are they 2 different unts?
Btw, I'd have thought you'd get at least 20 more hp from the red paint.
Paul...The BBQs and the beers go down well with me but its the bikinis I have to draw the line at. I'm not getting a bikini wax job done for anyone! :jester
I just did mine. Pulled them off, punched out the u-joints, put them in a bead balsting cabinet , and then painted them. Just don't get them greasy after blasting them. They will be chemicaly clean, meaning they will rust pronto. I heard from these forum guys that if you paint them ricer yellow you can get 10 more horsepower out of them.
You can take a look at the picture I posted up above. The dual mount spring that I have is different than any of the other springs they sell for a single mounting position on the diff cover. I wanted to remove the stress from the diff cover as well as I wanted complete flexibility to raise and lower ride hieght and spring rate. I like to do alot of different kind of driving and this setup provides the greatest amount of flexibility. If you want to see more pics you can go to my website. :seeya
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: Painting halfshafts (454Big)
Bob,
powder coating requires 20 minutes at 180° C.
Straightening the shafts is done with a torch.
The heat there is much more excessive!!! About 1200 to 1500 ° C, depending on the flame.
Powdercoating does not hurt, I did it on my car too and.......
Therefore I painted my shafts RED, I gained 15 HP more!!!! :jester :cheers:
454Big any pictures of that car ? I'd like to see how those pipes look :D
Man- the forum is great. I ask a deceptively simple question and I get a bunch of great technical answers and a full-fledged "flame fest" as someone so aptly put it. Pure entertainment. :cheers: