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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:35 AM
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Default Clutches

Just got my spark problem fixed start her up and before we adjust the carbs I want to run her up the block to see how she moves.

Push in the clutch go to drop her in R and grind push the clutch in 1 more time to 2nd guess self that I didnt push it in all the way the 1st time & to hear if the maybe the linkage is lose and I can hear any clatering you know the reaching prayer easy fix thoughts. Sure enough nope Ijump under the car look through the inspection plate my boy pushes in the clutch and I can see the fork moving the throw out bearing. Hense I need a new clutch "YES I know if it wasn't 4 bad luck I wouldn't have any"

So which is the prefered clutch these days ? I like to beat on my toys and it's been years sense I put a clutch in a car any help. Iwould like to buy the most dependable unit that wont make me a unick with the cost LOL seriously are there any pros amd cons to different clutches and what would you use in your ride.

427 - 435 - 460 - M22 - 411 feed me
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 01:16 AM
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I put in a Centerforce Dual Friction. It got great reviews from a lot of guys seeming to run some real power through them. I am very pleased with the relatively light pedal pressure. I thought it would have been much firmer for a clutch that promises to hold 90% more than OEM.

I have only a 100 miles so far, but operation is very smooth and hasn't slipped eventhough I tried to make it slip a few times
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 06:54 AM
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Are you saying you need a new clutch just because you get a little grinding while shifting into reverse. First off reverse has no syncros so if the shaft is still spinning at all it will grind. If you get a grind while going into 1st of 2nd you might just need a slight linkage adjustment for the clutch. Now if you jump on it in 1st and 2nd and you can feel the motor spinning up and the car is not moving with the motor spinning up yes maybe you need a new clutch. You can't really tell the condition of the clutch by just shifting into gears in the driveway. Probably just a simple linkage adjustment should be fine.

I 2nd the CF dual friction if you do need a clutch. I have had mne for 2 years and drive it very hard. Never let me down so far. Holds everything I throw at it.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Are you saying you need a new clutch just because you get a little grinding while shifting into reverse. First off reverse has no syncros so if the shaft is still spinning at all it will grind. If you get a grind while going into 1st of 2nd you might just need a slight linkage adjustment for the clutch. Now if you jump on it in 1st and 2nd and you can feel the motor spinning up and the car is not moving with the motor spinning up yes maybe you need a new clutch. You can't really tell the condition of the clutch by just shifting into gears in the driveway. Probably just a simple linkage adjustment should be fine.

I 2nd the CF dual friction if you do need a clutch. I have had mne for 2 years and drive it very hard. Never let me down so far. Holds everything I throw at it.

I know about the reverse grind but lets just say when I pushed in the clutch and through it in 1st aftern the car jump 3 feet is when I assumed it needs a clutch . Trust me I'm the guy that looks for the easiest way to fix things but I also know sometimes the longway is the short way. So I'm going to try and adjust the linkage but Iknowend result is it'sclutch time . Looks like the original clutch and the car has almost 60k miles and is decades old I think it's time

Last edited by BB427; Jun 3, 2008 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Are you saying you need a new clutch just because you get a little grinding while shifting into reverse. First off reverse has no syncros so if the shaft is still spinning at all it will grind. If you get a grind while going into 1st of 2nd you might just need a slight linkage adjustment for the clutch. Now if you jump on it in 1st and 2nd and you can feel the motor spinning up and the car is not moving with the motor spinning up yes maybe you need a new clutch. You can't really tell the condition of the clutch by just shifting into gears in the driveway. Probably just a simple linkage adjustment should be fine.

I 2nd the CF dual friction if you do need a clutch. I have had mne for 2 years and drive it very hard. Never let me down so far. Holds everything I throw at it.
If your disc is shot it will slip. Even then it could still be the adjustment. Try a clutch adjustment first. As the disc wears the adjustment changes slightly. Your car may have never had a clutch adjustment. Lengthen the rod a couple turns. If the clutch is fried I second the dual friction centerforce. Always shift into first, then reverse while still holding the clutch in.

Last edited by 63mako; Jun 3, 2008 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 03:59 PM
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Which way is the adjusting to lengthin it counter or clock
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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If the car has been sitting for a long time and it's an area with humidity, the disc can 'rust' to the flywheel - not uncommon for cars stored during the winters. If it is this, put the car in 1st gear and rock it back and forth to break the disc free from the flywheel.

As far as clutches, I'm a fan of McLeod products. If you happen to have a guy named Red Roberts answer the tech support line, pay close attention - one of the most knowledgable in the business.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BB427
Which way is the adjusting to lengthin it counter or clock
Which ever way makes it longer.

Should be counter clockwise. You are unscrewing the rod to make it longer.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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Okay your talking about the threaded rod coming coming off the back of the pedal the connects to the to the stationary shaft that has a lube nipple on it right ?
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BB427
Okay your talking about the threaded rod coming coming off the back of the pedal the connects to the to the stationary shaft that has a lube nipple on it right ?
Yupper!

There should be 2 nuts, one on either side of the square piece. The square piece has a pin on one side that goes into the Z bar and is held in by a clip. Loosen the two nuts and move the square piece down the shaft or towrds the front of the car. This will make it longer and should take up some free play in the linkage.

Last edited by Gordonm; Jun 3, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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Adjusted it outward as to pull the clutch fork closer to the pressure plate like the clutch is engaging and it did s**t actually its a little worst I'm going to runn back to the garage and adjust it the opposite direction and see if anything changes if not it's off to the speed shop again LOL.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BB427
Adjusted it outward as to pull the clutch fork closer to the pressure plate like the clutch is engaging and it did s**t actually its a little worst I'm going to runn back to the garage and adjust it the opposite direction and see if anything changes if not it's off to the speed shop again LOL.
How much free play do you have. When the clutch pedal is fully out and you go to depress it how far does the clutch pedal travel before you can feel it hit the throw out bearing. It should be no more than an inch or so.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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It engauges about 1" I talk to theservice manager at the local corvette shop. He said the propabilty of the disc being stuck to the fly wheel after sitting for a few years is more likely than the clutch gone bad. I think my best option is to throw her on the lift and just yank the trans. He also said that some of the vettes w/ the 427/435 came with a stock heavy duty clutch and switching to the CF is really only benifical if I going to be out racing her, So I'll let you know how it goes once I get the trans out.
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