Anyone know the simplest way to disable the factory security/alarm system in my '82? It won't stop locking me out and it's getting more than a little frustrating.

 

I have never done it but you may want to try pulling the 15 amp theft deterrent fuse. Interesting the manual calls it a 15 amp the picture shows a 10 amp.
Its up on the left side of the fuse panel.

The module is in the tray behind the passenger seat.

Jim

 

Hmmm I didnt think the factory alarm "locked" the doors. I know the door locks are connected to the control module for the purpose of arming and disarming.

 

The alarm is tied into the door locks but I'm not sure if it locks the doors. Mine was disabled long age by prior owner.

 

Again with the 82 alarm system............Posted a question last week about disabling the alarm system on an 82. Thanks for the responses, but maybe I should have framed it differently. The system doesn't actually lock me out, but it DOES disable the key lock mechanism (when the doors are locked) and renders it unusable. (In that it doesn't allow me to turn off the alarm with the key and I can't unlock the doors with the key). I removed the fuse when the system was off and that seemed to disable all the offending components.....................for a while. However, got out of the car yesterday, locked it, tried to get in later and the g@#%*m thing had locked me out again!! (Lock mechanism was in the "sorry, I don't want to work right now" mode). Now, how in the heck can a system with no power to it disable a switch with no power to it? After much cussing and screaming and confused expressions and trying every combination of lock/unlock, key on/key off, battery disconnects and what not it finally decided to unlock itself. AARRRGGHHH! Only thing I can figure at this point is a malfunction with the actual cylinder (which is, of course, no longer in production). Still scratching my head over this. Any more ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

Not having an 82 owners manual to confirm that the alarm does or does not lock the doors leaves me unable to give you a solid answer.But my belief is the alarm does not lock the doors which would mean its not the alarm malfuntioning.
That said in the past I have run into bad door lock "switches" that will remain slightly engaged.There will be just enough current going to the lock solenoid to keep it locked enough that you cant over come it with the key.Generally this runs the battery down-has this happened?You could just replace door lock switches but that could be expensive and not necesary.You could also just unplug both door lock switches and operat the locks manualy for awhile and see if the condition goes away.You can get to the bottom of a switch problem with a multi meter but I would hate to try to explain how.

 

Did you get a long-winded e-mail from me? (batman82/Barry L. Condon/nodnoc@mindspring.com). I very much appreciate your enlightened comments and spent a good hour composing a response and clarification of my issues, only to find out I hadn't logged in and am not at all sure if the mail was sent after I signed on. (D'oh............hate it when that happens)! Anyway, if you're of a mind to answer another question or two your comments raised in me, I think the path you suggest is the right one.

Thanks again, Barry

 

Yes I got your e-mail and your PM.With a little luck we can get to the bottom of your problem.Check your inside door lock switches and see if the toggle is returning to center-if it doesnt it will partially energize the lock actuator and keep the door locked.

 

This actually sound more mechanical then electrical to me. You did not state whether you have electric door locks or mechanical?

The security system Would not prevent you from unlocking your door - only the incorrect key or a bad cylinder would do that.

The system I think is the same as on the 81? When you mechanically turn the cylinder with the key you "Arm" the system. The key turning the cylinder also Dis-Arms the system.

My 81 is on the fritz at the moment - it will not Dis-Arm. I have to track down which sensor is frozen in a closed position or replace the module which is located in compartment behind the passenger seat. You can simply unplug the module and the alarm system will be disengaged.

My Horn would not stop blaring until I disengaged the system by pulling the plug at the module.

However bad electric door locks can and may be your problem. Constantly engaged because they are constantly energized - but as stated before, this should drain your battery over a period of time

 

Charlie are you making sure when using the key in the door lock you are returning exactly to 12 oclock? When the key switches get old if you go 1* past straight up the alarm will reset.Also go over to the pass. door and unlock and return the key to 12 oclock just to be sure its not that switch.
One other thing and I dont think its true but I was accidentally reading my 81 manual (not the 82) and it said the outer key lock switch is only for disarming and that the way to arm is by using the inside door lock switch ?!?! I know the earlier ones you can arm and disarm with the outer door lock.Thoughts?

 

Well...... I am not exactly sure anymore if it had to be armed with inside door lock button only....... I've got the system disconnected right now - but this weekend if I get time I will reconnect the module and ensure that both outer locks are at the 12 o'clock position. This all started last year when I had to replace the alternator - don't ask me what that had to do with anything, but the alarm system started going nuts. I then tested all the alarm contacts, hood, doors and tops and they all seemed to be functioning normally at the alarm module.
The only thing I did not do was take the inside door panels off and exam the contacts at the door cylinders.

 

Unplug the module it is a closed relay system. The unit will be completely disabled. If my brain is'nt farting I believe in the early 80's chevy & ford both used code alarm as thier "factory" alarm. If you pull the replacing with a upgraded remote system is easy.

 

It is unplugged at the module - so now what? You say it's easy to upgrade? Is there a direct replacement unit? Will the new one connect to the existing Alarm Harness?
I would like to activate my system again. I have looked for a new Module to replace mine but they are few and far between and NOT cheap.
So if you know something please continue................

 

if your module is unplugged I would go with a aftermarket DEI-viper or unit they are 1 of the more reliable unit. You will gain remote acc. to you security and all of your connections except for your powerlocks will be in the old harness. However you willonly have to run 2 wire up to the kick panel to grab the locks. All you have to do is take a picture of the factory harness you unplugged and I'll walk you through it wire by wire. Not to make sales pitch but if you need a alarm I have standard alarms to alarms that page your remote control if the car is tampered with lmk if you need anything help or equiptment.