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Everything in my A/C has been changed. Except the condenser. Now when it's running cold it stops and worm humid air comes out. I know it sounds like not enough 134. The system is full. Being the condenser is 30 years old could that be the problem maybe clogged?
Does it have an expansion valve? That could be clogged or partially so.
Back in the day in a car I had the a/c wasn't operating well when suddenly there was an explosion under the hood. The expansion valve was clogged and the high side hose blew clean off the compressor. There was compressor oil everywhere under the hood and the hood insulation was shredded.
could be the "clutch switch" (guys help me out if I'm using the wrong terminology) goes on top of the dryer I think and looks like a brake pressure switch. They go bad, sometimes you can tap it and the system will come back on, on mine I removed it and cleaned it and worked for a while. Finally replaced it and all it good.
It would be the low pressure switch. I'm not sure what year car you have. If you converted it to 134, it should have 80% as much as the
R12. Overfilling 134 is as bad as under filling it.
It sounds like it's freezing up, mine did that due to a sticking POR valve but your system is different than mine. I got some good advice from this forum:
Everything in my A/C has been changed. Except the condenser. Now when it's running cold it stops and worm humid air comes out. I know it sounds like not enough 134. The system is full. Being the condenser is 30 years old could that be the problem maybe clogged?
Does it cool again after you shut it down for a few minutes?
When you notice the heat is the car idleing? If this is the case and you are still useing the engine driven fan your high pressure switch is causing the compressor to disengage. In our cars that were not originally for the new refrigerant at idle there is not enough air moving thru the condensor causing excessive high pressure on the system and the high pressure switch disengages the compressor. Something else you need to check is when the warm air is coming out of your vents verify if your compressor is engaged. If the compressor is still engaged you may have one of the under dash actuators moving to the open position allowing outside engine air in to your cabin.
First thing I would look for is frost. If you have excess amounts of liquid logging up in areas you will defiantly have a frost line. Because the evaporator is enclosed the frost line will be hard to see. I would pull the screws out of the thermostatic switch and let the switch sit on top of the evaporator housing and see if your compressor clutch stays energized. This switch is normally closed at temperatures above 34* and opens at temperatures below 33* disengaging the compressor clutch solenoid.
When you notice the heat is the car idleing? If this is the case and you are still useing the engine driven fan your high pressure switch is causing the compressor to disengage. In our cars that were not originally for the new refrigerant at idle there is not enough air moving thru the condensor causing excessive high pressure on the system and the high pressure switch disengages the compressor. Something else you need to check is when the warm air is coming out of your vents verify if your compressor is engaged. If the compressor is still engaged you may have one of the under dash actuators moving to the open position allowing outside engine air in to your cabin.
No I took the stock fan out, and replace it with dual electric fans. I installed a small pusher fan in front of the condenser. That comes on only when I turn the A/C on
If the the compressor keeps "cycling" on and off, and you have the updated POA valve that has the cycling switch, then it may indicate one (or both) of these cases, the refrigerant is low, or you need to adjust the small screw inside the switch.
of course there may be some other reasons, just want to give you a place to check.
BTW, how did you manage to have a pusher fan on your condenser? I was trying to have one on mine, but it seems if I put one on, I wont be able to open the hood anymore! .. very tight place!
Could be moisture in the system freezing the refrigerant expands. If you turn the unit off for a few minutes and turn it back on will it start working again. If this is the case, moisture is probably present and thaws when the unit is off. The it will freeze up again as it passes through the system.
If the the compressor keeps "cycling" on and off, and you have the updated POA valve that has the cycling switch, then it may indicate one (or both) of these cases, the refrigerant is low, or you need to adjust the small screw inside the switch.
of course there may be some other reasons, just want to give you a place to check.
BTW, how did you manage to have a pusher fan on your condenser? I was trying to have one on mine, but it seems if I put one on, I wont be able to open the hood anymore! .. very tight place!
I cut 1" out of the hood latch and welded it back together. I still have plenty of room to take out the radiator
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