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Question for guys with offset TA's

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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
SharkintheWoods's Avatar
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Default Question for guys with offset TA's

How close are your offset TA's from the frame pocket. I shimmed everthing the way it came out with the original TA's and it looked like they might hit the frame pocket. I swapped a couple of shims from outboard to inboard, jacked up the wheel close to hitting the stopper and it is very close to rubbing the frame. Answers? Same experiences?? Is this ok?

Thanks...
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Everything goes back the same with the offset TA. The only thing the offset does is move the arm center away from the wheeel and has the EB cable mount on top. Shim the pocket as it was from the factory, or stack the shims evenly on both sides, as that is usually close. Avoid closing the pocket with the bolt by placing the last shim in with a hammer. They need to go in tight, or the bolt will close the pocket as it takes up the space.

When you are done, check the alignment with a laser level. Lay it across the rear rotor and shoot the beam down the frame rail. This is best done when the TA's are at operational height. You can do this by placing a 4X4 post along the bottom and across both TA's with a jack stand under both arms. Lower the car from the differential. Check the camber with a level in the vertical position on the rotor. The wheel studs can get in the way, so mounting a spare rotor over the rotor studs in reverse can help doing both. I hope this helps. A search will get you plenty of other information.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 01:11 AM
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Those offset arms are bad - the quality control on them is a joke. I had to clearance my damn arms just to get them to fit. They didn't even install my bushings correctly.

Last edited by stinger12; Jun 10, 2008 at 03:43 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 01:27 AM
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I had a similar problem with my offset arms rubbing the inside pocket. Ended up trimming 1/8" off the inner frame rail trailing arm pocket lip and to get a reasonable amount of clearance. This was with both trailing arms.

Take your trailing arm out...place the shim on the inside edge as if the bolt was going through the bushing and then see if the shim hits the inside trailing arm edge. The inside edge of my trailing arm was soo wide that it would get hung up on the inside shims and not fully drop when car was in the air. Arm was actually sitting on top of the shims.

Last edited by Hadez; Jun 10, 2008 at 01:35 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 03:42 AM
  #5  
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Go to my restoration thread and it will show you how I had to clearance my arms so that when it came time for alignment, I wouldn't have an issue with it hitting the pocket. My pockets are in perfect condition, so it was the arms. You aren't the first one to experience these problems - the quality control on them is poor.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Great,
I sure hope I don't have to come back apart with all this mess. I never envisioned that these would do this when I purchased them.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SharkintheWoods
Great,
I sure hope I don't have to come back apart with all this mess. I never envisioned that these would do this when I purchased them.
I know a guy that got a set that was so bad, that he had to cut the ends off the arms, then had to machine new ends, and have them welded back on. I'm not trying to make you feel bad...I'm just putting it out there that these arms DO have problems, and they often cause several issues when it comes time for alignment. Good luck
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