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Could changing rods/jets help my pinging issue?

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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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Default Could changing rods/jets help my pinging issue?

Right now I have a 795cfm Edelbrock 1903 Q-Jet on my 383, and as stated in other threads I'm having massive pinging problems. I've tried plugs and retarding timing and everything else but it still pings.

It mainly pings when the car is lugging along with the torque converter locked up at really low (1000-2200) RPMs. I don't notice any real pinging at WOT.

Right now the carb is stock with 73 main jets and 50V rods. Any opinions on if changing the jets/rods could help the pinging, and if so, which sizes should I look at changing to?

Also, looking at http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ss_q-jet.shtml it seems like for my model (M4M) the smallest rod they sell is .048. Could I use a rod from the 4MV model to make it even more rich on cruise?

Thanks

Last edited by neuroclast; Jun 11, 2008 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 06:40 AM
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What is the compression ratio? Does it run hot?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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at 1000 it's on the idle circuit(adjust screws)
IMO u need EFI to run 1000-2200 correctly
Maybe lars has a solution.
many hot rods never see that range, except slowing down.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Jun 12, 2008 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:48 AM
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Try pulling the vacuum advance off, and plug the hose. If the ping stops you need to work on the timing.

I had stalling issues with mine running too lean on the idle circuit, and have since fixed it with bigger idle feed restrictors, but never had any sort of pinging.

Usually pinging is caused by timing,running too hot,or just plain crappy gas.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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It doesn't run hot. Compression ratio is just over 11:1. EFI really isn't an option. With the vac advance pulled it still does it. Initial is already down to 10* if I go any lower my headers are going to be glowing
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:58 AM
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What cam / heads are you running?

Have you tried heavier springs in the distributer to slow down the advance?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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Trick Flow 23* (64cc) aluminum heads and 230/236 490/490 cam. I've got the heaviest I can find in there right now.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:57 AM
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At those rpms your probably pulling full vacuum-how much advance is in your vac. can?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
At those rpms your probably pulling full vacuum-how much advance is in your vac. can?
I phsyically limited it to 12* max
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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That cam seems a bit small for 11:1 cr, but not much you can easily do now about it.

Does it ping early in the morning,like with a cool engine? Maybe a cooler theromstat would help.You might try some 1.60 rockers to fake the engine into thinking the cam's bigger. (By adding 2-3 degrees duration)
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
I phsyically limited it to 12* max
That seems like a bit much.I've had good luck with the B1 can.It is only 8*max.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Years ago before I even heard the word dynamic compression ratio i built a 355 ci motor with iron heads and @ 10.7 compression. I used a Crane power max 272 cam.

I fought it for a couple of years with super ignitions that i played with the advance curve on distributer machines. I jetted it on a rear wheel dyno that i could use for hours on end with exhaust sniffers. I fully understand how to jet an edelbrock carb. I always carried moroso 104 octane booster.

What it came down to was just adding more cam duration. I went up to the power max 278 and detonation was a distant thought of what not to do.

Then on my first 383 build with flat tops and lots of good parts I used a 232/240 solid roller and it was right on the edge of detonation. So I went up in cam duration and was good to go
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Well I guess I'm stuck with a cam change then. I've never done that before but I'm guessing it's going to be a big project. At least for a slightly bigger cam I shouldnt have to change springs or anything.

If I do go with a slightly bigger cam, how is my 2800 stall converter going to effect it? Will it just not be quite as fast under acceleration or what?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Why couldn't you drop the CR a little by pulling the heads and installing a slightly thicker head gasket. A lot easier than a cam change.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
Why couldn't you drop the CR a little by pulling the heads and installing a slightly thicker head gasket. A lot easier than a cam change.

Wouldn't that mess up his quench?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Btw someone wanna explain to me what quench is? I though about doing just that with the head gasket but everyone said it's a horrible idea. It would be nice to know why?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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Is this a daily driver? Have you tried Money Pits suggestion-disconnecting the vac. advance.If that fixes the problem then work with the timing.
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To Could changing rods/jets help my pinging issue?

Old Jun 12, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
Btw someone wanna explain to me what quench is? I though about doing just that with the head gasket but everyone said it's a horrible idea. It would be nice to know why?

The quench area is the space between the outside circumference of the piston head and the cylinder head. It is this area that causes the air and gas to be squeezed which creates a turbulence in the space between the piston head and cylinder head that assists in the mixing of the gas and air.

It's my understanding that if you get too thick of a gasket, the air and fuel doesn't mix properly, or efficiently, and you get less efficient combustion.

I think there would be more benefits from a cam swap, than a gasket change, and you still have to take the top end apart. At least with a cam change the heads can stay on the engine.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
The quench area is the space between the outside circumference of the piston head and the cylinder head. It is this area that causes the air and gas to be squeezed which creates a turbulence in the space between the piston head and cylinder head that assists in the mixing of the gas and air.

It's my understanding that if you get too thick of a gasket, the air and fuel doesn't mix properly, or efficiently, and you get less efficient combustion.

I think there would be more benefits from a cam swap, than a gasket change, and you still have to take the top end apart. At least with a cam change the heads can stay on the engine.
Ok, that kinda makes sense. One more thing I'm curious about. The sheet I got from the original engine builder says it was built "3 in the hole." Is that 0.03 piston deck clearance, or do I have that wrong?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by neuroclast
Ok, that kinda makes sense. One more thing I'm curious about. The sheet I got from the original engine builder says it was built "3 in the hole." Is that 0.03 piston deck clearance, or do I have that wrong?

That's what I would assume too but without talking to the builder or the person who filled out that sheet we can only guess that's what he meant.
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