Installing Hooker Headers
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 1
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Installing Hooker Headers
I am now the proud owner of some gently used chrome hooker headers to go onto my C3.
Are these capable of being installed in ones garage with hand tools and a floor jack?
I have a Small Block with a manual.
Are these capable of being installed in ones garage with hand tools and a floor jack?
I have a Small Block with a manual.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Are they sidemounts?? I just did mine, by myself, in a couple of hours. Had my car about 18" off the ground on stands, and they VERY EASILY slid in from underneath. Granted, I had the original exhaust already removed since I am going to sidepipes, and it helps to remove the alternator to get to the front header bolts on the drivers side...but very straightforward...Great if you have a helper to hold the headers while you bolt them to the heads...
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Just did mine last month.
Car frame needs to be about 16 inches off ground.
Tall jack stands work fine.
A helper to install the headers is helpful.
You'll need a person under the car to feed them in and another up top to put in the head bolts.
Manual is no problem.
Disconnect the pedal rod at the base under the MC.
Disconnect the horizontal rod that goes back to the clutch fork.
The cross shaft/pivot shaft will come out real easy by removing the one nut on the outer end under the MC.
Install in reverse after the header is installed.
Car frame needs to be about 16 inches off ground.
Tall jack stands work fine.
A helper to install the headers is helpful.
You'll need a person under the car to feed them in and another up top to put in the head bolts.
Manual is no problem.
Disconnect the pedal rod at the base under the MC.
Disconnect the horizontal rod that goes back to the clutch fork.
The cross shaft/pivot shaft will come out real easy by removing the one nut on the outer end under the MC.
Install in reverse after the header is installed.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
The chrome scratches easy.
Trust me.
Wrapping them in a sheet or towl is a good idea.
Also make sure they are wiped clean prior to starting the engine.
Any oil on the chrome headers will become a permanent stain once the engine is fired.
Trust me.
Wrapping them in a sheet or towl is a good idea.
Also make sure they are wiped clean prior to starting the engine.
Any oil on the chrome headers will become a permanent stain once the engine is fired.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 7
From: Jacksonville , NC
I just installed mine a few weeks ago by myself. I chose to use ARP header studs which helps in gasket and header install. Just had to start all the nuts first then tightened them down. Massaged the #1 and #7 ourside pipes for clearenc for the nuts.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 1
From: Dodgeville Wisconsin
Installed a set of the Hooker headers and pipes a few weeks ago. Passenger side easy. Need a helper on drivers side though. Fairly easy to do though. Easiest way to put rockers back is to remove rear tire and slide them in from the back. I didn't have to notch mine. Goog Luck
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I have to disagree with most everyone that's replied to this thread.
The most difficult part of installing headers on a Corvette is getting the original exhaust system (pipes, mufflers, and manifolds) off the car.
After you get the headers installed, carry the tools you used to tighten the header bolts. For the first couple of weeks, tighten them EVERYTIME you stop, and then before you go. I know it's a PITA, but it's less of a PITA to just tighten the bolts than it is to replace a header gasket.
The most difficult part of installing headers on a Corvette is getting the original exhaust system (pipes, mufflers, and manifolds) off the car.
After you get the headers installed, carry the tools you used to tighten the header bolts. For the first couple of weeks, tighten them EVERYTIME you stop, and then before you go. I know it's a PITA, but it's less of a PITA to just tighten the bolts than it is to replace a header gasket.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Pretty easy install for me, had to ding the #2 pipe for the angle plug heads and on the D/S for the steering box. Also had to notch the rocker covers and slide them in from the back with the rear tires off (once the pipes were mounted). I got some used black powder coat headers and some new stainless pipes, pipes are yellowed already.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 7
From: Jacksonville , NC
Ha.. you know, now that I think of it, thats the reason I went with studs, I had a heck of a time starting bolts, due to interference with the gasket. (its hard enough to get to some of the bolts to begin with and then fighting to get them started just begs a cross threading adventure) Never dawned on me to align the mounting holes
.Oh well the studs worked well, but a bit pricey.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: destin fl
Corvette Dave How Much $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Wise In Your Exhaust System? Also Are The Primaries 1.7/8ths On The Headers? Reason For Asking I Read Some Where That When Using This Size, Exhaust Head Adapters Would Be Required. Nice Looking Pipes By The Way. Peace Out Lynn
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
I'm pretty sure I measured the primaries and they are 1 7/8". Got the headers used so I didn't have any documentation with them. They don't leak at all, but I did use some expensive $30 aluminum header gaskets, maybe they would have leaked with standard gaskets, not sure.
I also got the spiral baffle mufflers from Spiral Turbo Specialties and they are supposed to flow the best of any muffler or glass pack u can use. They sound incredible (but a little loud for some I think).
http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/products.html
Price was $300 or so for the used headers, $400 for the stainless pipes from either Summit or Jegs, I forget, and around $300 for the spiral baffles. I wish I had gone with the silver coated headers and pipes because the stainless do yellow pretty quick. They won't rust though, that's for sure.
I also got the spiral baffle mufflers from Spiral Turbo Specialties and they are supposed to flow the best of any muffler or glass pack u can use. They sound incredible (but a little loud for some I think).
http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/products.html
Price was $300 or so for the used headers, $400 for the stainless pipes from either Summit or Jegs, I forget, and around $300 for the spiral baffles. I wish I had gone with the silver coated headers and pipes because the stainless do yellow pretty quick. They won't rust though, that's for sure.
Last edited by CorvetteDave01; Jun 14, 2008 at 06:50 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 14
From: LaMoille Illinois
if you were asking me i got them straight from jet hot. ceramic coated headers and pipes,inserts(mufflers),and hardware for install for 1116.00 shipped to my house. they knock off 100 if you tell them your from the forum!
Navigator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Spring Hill KS
Quick question. I have a 80 C3 with the CA 305 in it. I am installing a full setof new Hooker headers and 4" side pipes. Which tube on the driver side is the best to have drilled out for the O2 sensor or do I really need to have it since it is an 80? I have the threaded peice supplied by Summit Racing which is where I got the headers and side pipes from.
