platzie

Guys, My Dad had a non-matching '68 327 (2 bolt)in his RS/SS and swapped in a crate 350. It's just taking up space, but I got thinking...I was contemplating a crate 383 to preserve the original 350. I can have that for free, but maybe freshen it up. It's like 10:1 compression right now, but was thinking of making it a fun engine I can beat on too. Put some vortec heads, manifold and new cam. Fresh hone & rings if needed. It currently has some 202 heads on it. Stroke it?

Save my money for the crate 383 or have fun building this up, learn something in the process. Obviously, I'd need to find a machine shop (Gunther's in MD seems reputable) and assemble myself,etc.

Day dreaming on a Friday...

Durango_Boy

Build a beast. I have both bought crate engines and built my own engines. Mostly they were all stock, and in the last six months I have started branching out and building more radical engines.

You have a lot of good ideas, from the Vortec heads and manifold and a radical cam. I say have fun, build a beast, and keep us posted.

platzie

How radical can a 327 build get? What's the cc's with just a 0.040" bore? Max bore? 0.060" It's a 2 bolt, but can be stroked to a 383 or bigger? I want to stay in the "safe zone" if you will as far as the limits of this build. Reliability and durability are important too.

platzie

Probably need to get rid of the domed pistons and goto flat or mildly dished due to gas prices etc.

Scott Marzahl

What piston part number are they, should be engraved on the top. If they are just a small 3 cc dome great, if they are monsters, just have them milled down. Your cam selection will determine what compresion works with premium fuel.

If you are thinking stroking it, then stroke it. You have the large journals, just install a set of main studs for some extra bottom end strength. Larger cubic inch engines need to breath so some better heads are desireable. Your stock heads are OK for a top RPM of 5,500 and you'll have some good torque.

Otherwise just freshen up the 327 and run it. Do you think it needs to be bored, I wouldn't unless it needs it and then try to stick to a .030" oversize. Find out what pistons are in it, the ccs of the heads and if you know the cam great, if not, the GM "151" cam makes for a great cam. If you want to go solid lifter there are choices there too.

platzie

I agree Scott, that's why I want the motor to start and tear it down. No rush either, just out of curiosity and use the new parts washer!

platzie

If it's a small journal, how does that limit the build vs. a large journal?

stingr69

A large journal 327 has the same block as a 350. You could stroke it to 383 but you might like just leaving it as a 327. The only thing a 327 is good for is a plain jane grocery getter (because that is what you already have) OR built up to be a stick shift high RPM screamer. I would choose the screamer myself. A small solid lifter cam with 112-114 lobe centers would give you good drivabillity. I bet a Crane F-280-2 would be good here. Combine that with 10.5 - 11:1 compression, upgraded rods (bolts at a minimum), forged pistons and good valve springs. You will want to have some gears in the back too. That would make for a fun ride. This can be as wild as you like.

-Mark.

MotorHead

Here's an idea for the 327, leave it in the corner of the garage and build a 383 or 406ci

vett us all

Probe Makes A Large Selection Of Crank, Rod, To Piston Head, Combos And They Are Priced Right. Peace

platzie

I'm thinking I'd prefer to "purr" a 383 than "scream" a 327. Both are fun, but might be alot cheaper the 327 route. Solid Lifter...I like it. Besides, I'd love the extra T.L.C. that it would demand! Sounds like I need to research more. Cool, Cheers!

Desert68

You can leave the stroke alone and build an RPM motor. Easier (cheaper) to zing one with a short stroke. Nothing like the sound of a small block north of 7K.

platzie

My Dad's '69 Firebird 400 w/ 4.11's I swear I would goto 8,000 RPM (based on the hood tach). Granted it probably ran out of steam before then, but it didn't ever even hiccup or cough. Another fun car I wish I had...I always said, "Your next build is going to have to be as fast as that one." Right, blue hair Dad puts a GM 290 Crate motor in. Can't really tell if it's better or worse. He never did get the 327 to run right. It had a single plan intake on it, so who knows what it has inside.

vett us all

Try A 3" Stroke/4.155 Bore. Zinger From H**l

breathial

cv67

Just did one. 4-1/8 bore. 3.25 stroke. HR, dual plane, 522hp/463 tq.

Big bore=big breather

platzie

Cuisinartvette, Can you please get more specific in your build!? Sounds real interesting! I'd like to see more parts and specs. THanks!

cv67

P.2. Its a :cough: Ferd, but you can do the same thing with a Chebby. (Dart Little M block)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1904892

Ill pm ya the specifics if youre interested (so this thread stays on topic).. Motor is in the car now...Hazes them at will in about any gear.

platzie

I'l have to read more. I'm obviously trying to re-use parts and go low budget, but sounds like I can make a nice build and still be in the 400hp range. What displacement (cu. in.) is this bore & stroke combo?

toddalin

This combo works well for me and runs fine on 91 octane. (Engine does not ping regardless of my timing setting.) This is more power than most get out of a ZZ4.

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled, polished
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance (now 34 degrees per Lars tune-up)
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Muncie M-20 CR 4-speed (now Keisler TKO600 5-Speed)
Hurst shifter (Now Keisler With Hurst Tower)
3.70:1 positraction
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels

At the time of the dyno pull the engine had never been professionally tuned up. The car did 293 ft-lb and 293 hp @ 5,500 rpm on the chassis dyno. The engine pulls to 6,200 rpm and does over 200 ft-lb from 1,900 rpm. This was prior to some clean-up work around the junction of the carburetor and base of the air cleaner that smooths the flow through this area and a Lars tune-up and should be good for a few ponies. The car has run 107 mph in the high 13's (old, bad tires) at the quarter. The car is extremely streetable and could probably even run 87 octane if it had to. (I can't get the engine to ping no matter how far I advance the ignition.)

The secret to power is in the attention to details!