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I've been playing around with a dyno program and noticed that along with giving the power and torque at given RPMs it also gives you the "volumetric efficiency", which it explained was the percent of air/fuel that is able to enter the cylinder before the intake valve closes. Using different cam profiles and valve sizes I've been able to get just about the same power curve regardless of the efficiency. So my question is, do I want high efficiency or low efficiency? At first I thought the closer I got to 100% the better because I would get more power out of every stroke, but then I messed with the cam specs more and got my efficiency up to about 120% and realized that this would cause close to no vacuum at the intake. I also realized that if I can get the power I want with very LOW efficiency I would burn less gas per cycle and get better mileage. So do I want high efficiency or low?
Thats hard to answer, you want the closest to 100 percent while keeping it streetable. Also the only real way to go over 100 percent is the use of a turbo or supercharger.
poor performance, bad gas mileage. The most efficient motors are probably between 1.0 and 1.3 hp per ci
Desktop dyno isn't exact. You will get better performance and mileage @ close to 100% VE. My build is 100% VE from 4500 to 6000 RPM according to Desktop Dyno...............which isn't exact.
Here's what my dyno's telling me, sounds too good to be true but I'm looking at almost 500 ft/lbs just off idle. Cam would have to be a custom grind since I'm pretty sure nobody makes anything like this. I'll post the specs on that as soon as I get them printed.
Here's the cam specs, I'll admit I just messed with the numbers to get the efficiency up. I don't really know what they mean in terms of idle quality and vacuum.
DD2000 is way off of reality because it rewards massive exhaust valve timing. So use real life cam card numbers and the .050 numbers increase the accuracy
Great that's what I was afraid of, so you're saying this cam cannot exist?
Well 240 degrees seat to seat is a rediculessly low duration number. Also cam manufactures tend to keep spit duration cams to within 12 or 14 degrees.
When you order a custom cam each manufacturer only has a list of so many lobe designs and machinable blanks of certain Lobe Center angles.
So you look for the type of lobe that you want H-flat, Solid Flat, h-roller or S-roller. Then you choose the intake lobe duration and exhaust lobe duration and then tell them what LSA you want
I have free flowing exhaust so on my 383 solid roller I went with 236/242 @ .050 on comp cams XR profile at 112 LSA
Go to the AFR website and click on small block chevy heads, then check out cylinder head dyno results and cylinder head magazine articles, this may help out with motor combinations if its something your not real sure of.