When I bought my '71, the previous owner had replaced the mechanical pump with a Holley Electric one. He has it wired through the fuse panel and I am pretty sure it is in the slot for A/C/heater.

I have blown the fuse twice now and the last time I got stranded down the road from my house.

How does everyone else have theirs wired/ran? I was thinking about running the wire straight to the battery with a fuse able link or just adding a secondary fuse box.

I have no details about the pump...so what is the common fuse amperage for these? and what gauge wire should I run?

 

if you run it straight to the battery, pump will never turn off. should be switched by ignition. did you test pump for amps draw ? could always go back to a mechanical pump. good luck.

 

Good point! No I haven't tested anything yet. The whole car is horrendously "bubba-fied" so I honestly thought a would start anew with the wiring. I guess I will track down the wiring and see if it is shorting out or something.

Is it possible that the fuse is not big enough? Its 20 amps now. Does anyone know the common size?

 

Pick up this little piggy back connector and plug into the IGN slot in your fuse panel. Then you have another connection if you need it. I have my HEI and electric choke hooked up. This is in my 72...

 

Fuse probably blows when your AC kicks in... why not call holley and ask for the fuse they recomend. I would hook mine up to a 30A relay controlled by the ign tab in the fuse box, and run the power wire to a pigtail off the batt + through the relay contact, in a plastic box inside the car, fused at what ever holley says it should be, but I do electrical for a living. i could build you a box if you'd like. C.

 

I power my Aeromotive fuel pump (in the rear of the car) from the alternator output. The wire from the alternator is routed to the jack storage compartment where it goes through an inline fuse and then to an Aeromotive speed controller. The speed controller has an output wire that goes to power the Aeromotive Street and Strip pump. A wire also goes from the HEI tach output terminal to the Aeromotive speed controller. The speed controller varies the pump speed according to the engine speed. The speed controller outputs a chopped DC voltage to the pump to regulate its' speed. Somewhere around 2500 rpm and above, the speed controller applies full unchopped DC to the pump. When I shut the engine off, a 0 rpm signal to the speed controller turns off the pump. With the engine off, when I next move the ignition key to the "run" position in preparaton for cranking the engine, the speed controller will turn on the pump even though the engine is not runing. The speed controller has an override switch that allows you to apply full DC to the pump in case the controller fails. Nice set-up. A little pricey at over $200 for the controller.

I like the feature that full pump power is not applied when the engine is idling. My old Holley, with no speed controller, ran at full power even though the engine was just idlinng or I was at a low cruise rpm. A lot of unnecessary wear and tear on the pump, plus at full power the Holley was noisy. Sounded like a coffee grinder.

 

Buy an 82 up oil pressure switch and a timed relay.

Wire the pressure switch and relay in parallel off the battery, fused to the pump. This way, when you turn the ignition on your timed relay will energize the pump for x amount of secs. When you don't crank the pump will shut off and not run needlessly. When you do crank after ign. on (you may want to run another relay trigger wire to energize the relay when cranking - simply done off the coil lug on the starter - , otherwise if you had waited and the relay turned off you have to turn the ignition off and on again) the engine should start and the oil pressure switch should keep the pump powered.

It's more work but a much better solution.

 

call jegs they have a fuel pump wiring harness and relay from painless part #76450102 try that, it is the one i used worked fine

 

Great suggestions guys. I have yet to get under there and check the wiring to see if it shorting out or something. The car does not have air anymore so I doubt that is what is causing it.


The thing is..I don't want to put a of time/money into it yet because I plan on pulling the body this winter. I am just looking to cruise in it until then while I clean up the '76's engine bay.

 

heres the wiring diagram for the holley elect pump