I am in the process of making some suspension changes on my car, and I am having some trouble with the tires hitting the frame. It is hitting just outside of the trailing arm "window". I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue and ways around it? I am considering modifying the frame, but is looks like it is reinforced from the factory so maybe a highly stressed area? I am using offset TA's so there would not be a clearance issue with moving the frame in as shown in the pic (area paintmarkered red is where tire hits).





Currently I am going to use a 2.0" adapter in the rear and it hits the frame slightly, but I would like to go to a 1.75" spacer to bring the wheel inside the fender some more. I don't really want to mess with the body if possible so I wanted to see what others have done.

Thanks,
Matt

 

What are those rear wheels you are using? I am using 18x9 and 285/40 Toyo's with 5" backspace, stock trailing arms and it all clears (except for parking brake cable)

 

Rears are 18X10.5 with 295 35 18 tires

 

I would worry about the rotted end cap and general frame condition first.

But that aside, yes the kickup area is weaked and the metal is double plated there to give it some more strength. However, you can easily cut it, hammer the section inward to give clearance and then weld it back up with some fresh steel plates to close the gaps.

Here's what greenwood did, a little extreme but should give an idea.

 

Thanks for the pic. That's a little extreme as you stated, but that is similar to what I was looking at doing. I spoke with Gary at VB&P today about getting some smaller spacers, and he said that part of the frame was stainless steel. Is this true???

In general the frame is in pretty good condition. The hole in picture is the only area with "questionable" rust, and I plan on trying to repair it this winter.

 

No, the frame is entirely made of mild steel. Stainless? Where do they come up with that.

 

Unless he misunderstood what area I was talking about that is what he said. I didn't think it sounded quite right. Oh well.

 

Definitely not stainless steel. I am very disappointed in VBP for a comment like that. I am running offset TA's from Van Steel on a stock non-modified 68 frame with 17x11 315's with no contact. BUT they do not tuck inside the fenders, no way shape or form unless I go with flares. I run a stiff suspension so the wheels never come close to the body upon the compression stroke.

Does the rear of the wheel contact the frame too? My guess is either your frame is bent out of wack or your alignment is way off and you have 2" of clearance between the tire and the frame in the back near the #4 body mount. Otherwise you should have no contact if the wheel is tracking straight front-to-back. You should really try for at least an inch of clearance between the tire and the frame all around.
What rims are you using? If your wheels are on straight and the alignment is close then you will have to mess with the adapter or frame. Running a large adapter isn't great for your wheel bearings so if you modify the frame, make sure you plan it out well and really beef up that kick-up area as its already the weakest point on a stock frame aside from the front ramhorns.
On a side note: I am envious of your workshop and lift.

 

I am running the Van Steel offset T/A's as well as dual mount spring, moving the diff up, spacing the rod ends down, etc. When I was checking for wheel clearance to the frame, I was just mocking up the rear suspension, so I am sure that the alignment is not correct. From what I can tell the frame is only wider at the front of the wheel well so that is why I am not having issues at the rear.

I will probably put the car together without modifying the frame and having the wheel stick out a little. Then this winter try to tuck it in a little more. Right now to get the wheels into the fender I will have about 1/8" of frame clearance, but I need to set the toe and camber first and check at full bump/max camber gain.

Side Note: We got this place about a year ago. Wife stays in the house and I stay out in the building

 

That is the first place my tires made contact with too as the frame is still angling inward at that point, it seems to be the widest area. I cut out that area and welded in some 3/16" flat steel, picked up about 3/8" or so doing that and it's stronger than the rust pitted stuff I started with for sure, probably even unrusted.

 

Thanks for the post. Do you have any pics of this?