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Motor Mount install how to? Anyone?

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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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Default Motor Mount install how to? Anyone?

Hello, I've searched high and low and cannot find any mention of this here. Anyone have a brief how to on replacing the front driver/passenger motor mounts on a C3? I've got the new mounts. I've heard it mentioned that it is about an hours worth of work.

Just want to know the best way to do it. Thanks.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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I have a 68, but you need to give more info, 327 or 427? I would recomend calling a local chevy dealer and getting the number for the distributor of the service manual, it runs about $40 and is full of great tips. the other manual would be the assembly manual. some of the distributors have good diagrams and tech support like Paragon (800) 882-4688, they have a tech line that I have used they can fax or email you diagrams or just talk to you on the phone. Wilcox corvette has a lot on their site but not what your looking for.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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Get the car up on jack stands, and support the engine with a jack so you have access to the motor mounts and can still raise and lower the engine.

First, lift the engine a bit to take the pressure off of the mounts.

Then, loosen the bolts on both sides.

Next, remove the bolts to the motor mount, remove them, jacking up the engine as needed, and slide the new mounts in. Install all bolts finger loose.

Then drop the engine back on the frame and with the weight of the engine back down on the mounts, slide the barrel bolts in, again, raising the engine as needed. Tighten all the bolts once the engine is down on the mounts.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wilerbear1
I have a 68, but you need to give more info, 327 or 427? I would recomend calling a local chevy dealer and getting the number for the distributor of the service manual, it runs about $40 and is full of great tips. the other manual would be the assembly manual. some of the distributors have good diagrams and tech support like Paragon (800) 882-4688, they have a tech line that I have used they can fax or email you diagrams or just talk to you on the phone. Wilcox corvette has a lot on their site but not what your looking for.
It's a 79 350 L48
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Get the car up on jack stands, and support the engine with a jack so you have access to the motor mounts and can still raise and lower the engine.

First, lift the engine a bit to take the pressure off of the mounts.

Then, loosen the bolts on both sides.

Next, remove the bolts to the motor mount, remove them, jacking up the engine as needed, and slide the new mounts in. Install all bolts finger loose.

Then drop the engine back on the frame and with the weight of the engine back down on the mounts, slide the barrel bolts in, again, raising the engine as needed. Tighten all the bolts once the engine is down on the mounts.
Awesome, just what I was looking for. Ok, so not much different than when I did my MG.

Where is the jack supposed to be placed under the motor? The pan, or something else? When I did my B, the engine only weighs about 300LBs, so the pan was fine. Seems this might be a bit heavier. Thanks.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mia
Awesome, just what I was looking for. Ok, so not much different than when I did my MG.

Where is the jack supposed to be placed under the motor? The pan, or something else? When I did my B, the engine only weighs about 300LBs, so the pan was fine. Seems this might be a bit heavier. Thanks.

I used a block of wood and put the jack under the balancer.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I used a block of wood and put the jack under the balancer.
Great, thanks again!
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:31 PM
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when raising the motor make sure there is room for the fan and distributor. You should be ok, but keep an eye on these. You don't want to damage anything.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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I use a cherry picker from the side and do 1 side at a time lifting the loosening both but only pull one side at a time.
watch that you dont smash the distributor into the firewall or rip any wires out!!
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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This looks like it might be a little beyond my capabilities. How on earth do you get to these bolts easily? Seems like a super tight fit.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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Do one side at a time so the engine and related parts are partially supported and controlled. Did you ever wonder why there are so many different tools that seem to do the same job? They help get those difficult to reach places.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Do one side at a time, and jack the engine up using the pan. Make sure to put a large enough piece of wood under the pan so its properly supported.

Simply take the long thru bolt out of the frame, jack the engine up just a little to take the load off the mount. Remove the 3 bolts on the engine side and slide the mount up and out. Installation is in the reverse order.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulH
when raising the motor make sure there is room for the fan and distributor. You should be ok, but keep an eye on these. You don't want to damage anything.
I'd just go ahead and remove the fan. There's only about 1/4" clearence at the top. Don't want to be replacing the shroud next.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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Default I just swapped mine last night a PITA

Originally Posted by KapsSA
I'd just go ahead and remove the fan. There's only about 1/4" clearence at the top. Don't want to be replacing the shroud next.

Cherry ppicker from teh side lifted one side at a time. Unbolted the fan shroud so I wouldn't trash the fan blades. The bolts aren't that tight (unless Bubba got to them) but there isn't a lot of room and if your mounts are as deteriorated as mine you will find yourself chiseling old rubber away from teh bolt heads. I got the top bolts to the block with a swivel socket and a long extention. The bottom bolts I go at easy with just a standard socket and ratchet. The biggest hassel is the power steering bracket (if you have PS) and ignition shielding (if you still have it) and getting the bolts started through these and the mount. I spent 6.5 hours doing both of mine from start ot finish including cleaning up after myself and some time spent first cleaning the underside of the car and setting up the cherry picker, jacking up the car putting it on jack stands ect. Did it in my driveway because I don't have a huge shop so if you aren't dragging out tools and such it is quicker than a day. Realistically it took me a good three hours + of cursing and then finally happieness when the motor was sitting in there rock solid.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mia
This looks like it might be a little beyond my capabilities. How on earth do you get to these bolts easily? Seems like a super tight fit.
I did mine when I had the heads off and it made it waaaaaaaay easier to get to the bolts.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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The power steering bracket, that was the toughest part! PG.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Given I spent the entire day getting the wiring to work on my MGB restoration project, lots of swearing involved there, I think I'm gonna have someone else do it. The frustration and stress on that damned British car has taken its toll on me. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Also, there are two versions of the Chevrolet motor mounts made. The motor mount U shapped bracket that fits over the frame horns comes in two widths. The Corvette uses the wider U shapped bracket. The first time I ordered a set of motor mounts, the auto store...of course... sold me the narrow width.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
Also, there are two versions of the Chevrolet motor mounts made. The motor mount U shapped bracket that fits over the frame horns comes in two widths. The Corvette uses the wider U shapped bracket. The first time I ordered a set of motor mounts, the auto store...of course... sold me the narrow width.
That's good to know. I have what appear to be some pretty wide mounts from Bumper to Bumper.
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