manual brakes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
manual brakes
1st let mesay I searched the form but didn't find the answer. Heres the deal put on 2 new front calipers and new front hard and soft lines. Did have my vacume bleeded with me so I tried gravity crack open the 2 rears bleederscame back 30 minutes not a drop .So I closed the pass side and pumped the pedal fluid came out the dr side. closed it went to the pass opened it pump pump pump noting. closed it went to the 2 front cracked them open and the same thing as the rears NOTHING tried pump it w/ them open and nothing. Should I vacume bleed or do Ihave a prob w/ my MC
PS the MC was bone dry before I started frt rght cal leaked out thats why they are new.
Update at bottom need advise
PS the MC was bone dry before I started frt rght cal leaked out thats why they are new.
Update at bottom need advise
Last edited by BB427; Jun 29, 2008 at 07:48 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Gravity bleeding takes quite a while if you started with any dry components. Bench bleeding a master is very important and you'll be chasing air for a long time the way it went in.
Fill the master, crack open all the bleeders, and let it sit. Periodically check the level and top off if needed. I had to let mine sit over night once letting gravity do it's thing.
Fill the master, crack open all the bleeders, and let it sit. Periodically check the level and top off if needed. I had to let mine sit over night once letting gravity do it's thing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
If the master went bone dry, they you will need to re-bench bleed it. You can actually do this with it in the car.
Disconnect the lines from the master.
Attach some short lines and route them back into the master.
Jack up the rear of the car so the master is level.
Fill the resevoirs.
Pump the brakes until you have no new bubbles forming in the fluid.
Hook up your brake lines to the master and bleed as normal.
I did this on my car and it worked great.
Disconnect the lines from the master.
Attach some short lines and route them back into the master.
Jack up the rear of the car so the master is level.
Fill the resevoirs.
Pump the brakes until you have no new bubbles forming in the fluid.
Hook up your brake lines to the master and bleed as normal.
I did this on my car and it worked great.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota Fl
If the master went bone dry, they you will need to re-bench bleed it. You can actually do this with it in the car.
Disconnect the lines from the master.
Attach some short lines and route them back into the master.
Jack up the rear of the car so the master is level.
Fill the resevoirs.
Pump the brakes until you have no new bubbles forming in the fluid.
Hook up your brake lines to the master and bleed as normal.
I did this on my car and it worked great.
Disconnect the lines from the master.
Attach some short lines and route them back into the master.
Jack up the rear of the car so the master is level.
Fill the resevoirs.
Pump the brakes until you have no new bubbles forming in the fluid.
Hook up your brake lines to the master and bleed as normal.
I did this on my car and it worked great.
And do you have any more pics of the mount?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
screw the PM if that is a C5 motor in a C3 post some pics. I saw a dude in a feiro drop a C5 motor that thingwent from Grand national chaser to GN blazer lol his buddy had a mustang 5.0 motor in his all that time into a feiro LOL
PS thanks for the tip on bench bleeding the MC
PS thanks for the tip on bench bleeding the MC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
I had an issue with my proportioning valve recently, not sure if it applies and I am by no means a brake expert. My master was dry in the rear and the seals in the valve dried out best I can figure. After I had them in fluid for about 24 hrs they loosened up and started working correctly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
I had an issue with my proportioning valve recently, not sure if it applies and I am by no means a brake expert. My master was dry in the rear and the seals in the valve dried out best I can figure. After I had them in fluid for about 24 hrs they loosened up and started working correctly.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
Okay I vacume bleed the master ,It had some rust flake s**t landing in the bleeder reso. I pumped 3 pints of fluid threw the rear part of the MC until it was rust free. then bleed the front part 1 pint flush through nice and clean.
I go to the rear dr side ncal pop off the break line vacume 15 lbs suction 120mls come out a little dirty so I refill mc and all comes out clear great move to the ps rear side and suction at the bleeder valve not the line. a sh*t load of air comes outfluid starts to flow close the bleeder .
The front suction 5 lbs air out .Then I did the standard pressure bleed pump the pedal crack the valves dr front pedal gets hard Pass front gets harder rear pass pedal gets harder then goes soft rear dr side pedal gets hard again then softer.
Here is where I need help
I pop the MC to fill and rusty muck starts pushing back into the rear MC section. and my pedal is soft ,But if I pump it 4-5 times it gets hard I let go of the pedal for 10 seconds & step on it to the floor.
I rebuilt the front cals replaced all the front lines soft and hard .
where do I go from here??????
PS- the nut on the shaft inside the firewall that runs into the master looks like it had a slight leak is that possible?????
I go to the rear dr side ncal pop off the break line vacume 15 lbs suction 120mls come out a little dirty so I refill mc and all comes out clear great move to the ps rear side and suction at the bleeder valve not the line. a sh*t load of air comes outfluid starts to flow close the bleeder .
The front suction 5 lbs air out .Then I did the standard pressure bleed pump the pedal crack the valves dr front pedal gets hard Pass front gets harder rear pass pedal gets harder then goes soft rear dr side pedal gets hard again then softer.
Here is where I need help
I pop the MC to fill and rusty muck starts pushing back into the rear MC section. and my pedal is soft ,But if I pump it 4-5 times it gets hard I let go of the pedal for 10 seconds & step on it to the floor.
I rebuilt the front cals replaced all the front lines soft and hard .
where do I go from here??????
PS- the nut on the shaft inside the firewall that runs into the master looks like it had a slight leak is that possible?????
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
You need a new master cylinder.
If you are getting rusty stuff flowing back into the master thats bad.
The fluid on the inside of the car is leaking past the rear piston seal on the master cylinder. You could rebuild it, but with the rust issue, I would just replace it with a new one. Make sure you measure the opening on the rear of the new one. It should be 1" not 1 1/8".
If you are getting rusty stuff flowing back into the master thats bad.
The fluid on the inside of the car is leaking past the rear piston seal on the master cylinder. You could rebuild it, but with the rust issue, I would just replace it with a new one. Make sure you measure the opening on the rear of the new one. It should be 1" not 1 1/8".
