1968 Big Block Engine Removal Questions
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 19
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1968 Big Block Engine Removal Questions
I am planning to remove my engine for a warranty repair, and somehow got a friendly debate going about the best approach to remove the engine.
1) When I originally did the engine swap, I pulled the transmission with the engine. Other than the weight and bulkiness, it wasn't too bad. It seemed like the easiest way at the time.
2) Some of my coworkers feel that I should separate the engine between the bell housing and the engine. This way the throwout bearing stays with the bell housing and the engine is not as awkward to handle. One of the obstacles is the tight bell housing bolts around the firewall.
3) The third method was to separate the bell housing from the transmission. Since it has the nonremovable crossmember, just put a jack under the transmission, and remove the engine with the bell housing. The obstacle here is working with the thowout bearing when putting the engine back in.
Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations?
Thanks in advance
1) When I originally did the engine swap, I pulled the transmission with the engine. Other than the weight and bulkiness, it wasn't too bad. It seemed like the easiest way at the time.
2) Some of my coworkers feel that I should separate the engine between the bell housing and the engine. This way the throwout bearing stays with the bell housing and the engine is not as awkward to handle. One of the obstacles is the tight bell housing bolts around the firewall.
3) The third method was to separate the bell housing from the transmission. Since it has the nonremovable crossmember, just put a jack under the transmission, and remove the engine with the bell housing. The obstacle here is working with the thowout bearing when putting the engine back in.
Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by namttip; Jul 2, 2008 at 09:19 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
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From: walpole ma
I would leave the bellhousing with the trans and just take the motor out. If you use a lift plate that bolts on the carb ,the motor will lift right out fairly easily. To reinstall you just have to line up the trans with your clutch. I had to do that recently in my 68 and it worked great.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 148
From: East London/SW Essex UK
I would leave the bellhousing with the trans and just take the motor out. If you use a lift plate that bolts on the carb ,the motor will lift right out fairly easily. To reinstall you just have to line up the trans with your clutch. I had to do that recently in my 68 and it worked great.
I too have just done this lasr week with my '68 427. Finding an engine crane with a jib that is long enough will be the biggest issue - I had to use crane from side of car and remove one front wheel to get access for legs. Replacement of engine was a little more tricky - especially single handed - jack under transmission and bellhousing helped
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Eastampton NJ
I vote for pulling the engine & trans out as a unit. I find trying to mate the engine & trans back together while working under the car to be a pain. Dropping them back in as an assembly, with a leveler on the lift, means you just float the eng+trans back onto the mounts. Its super easy - I did it by myself...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 840
Likes: 19
From: Oshawa
I vote for the engine trans together, I've done both ways and found that although it might be bulkier with the two together, it save a lot of pain putting the two back together on your back! just my .02
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 19
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I appreciate everyone's input. I can certainly see where mating the engine to the trans while it is in the car to be tough. That is why I pulled the trans with the engine the first time. I did the job with the lifting plate that mounts to the top of the intake. I think that we used the hole closest to the firewall to distribute the weight. That seemed to work okay. The main problem was keeping the tail shaft of the trans from dragging the ground while the engine was still over the radiator frame while removing and installing. That is part of what makes leaving the transmission in place sound pretty good.
Again, thanks for the input.
Again, thanks for the input.
