Adding Power Brakes
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 923
Likes: 4
From: Austin Tx
no, you also need a different master cylinder, I believe the holes in the firewall don't match up so you have to modify that. Its not worth it. I've had a 72 with PB and a 69 and 71 without and its nicer not having that huge booster in the way in the eng compartment. If you slam on the brake on a non pb car, your going to lock up the wheels, so I don't really see the advantage of power brakes. In a non -antilock world, you can't ask for any more than locking up the tires.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 552
Likes: 2
From: Waynesboro GA
I tend to agree with you. It is nice to have the extra space. I have a 69 Camaro that also doesn't have power brakes. I just live with two females that are used to power brakes. I am like you, stand on the brakes and lock it down!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
adding power brakes would be good idea if your wife drives the car. unless she's a power lifter, there's no way she would be able to stomp that pedal as hard as you can. a car with locked wheels (assuming that she dosn't know to pump the pedal) is still going to stop quicker than a car with only moderate pedal pressure.
to change to power brakes, a booster has to be installed(of course),the master cylinder, and brake lines to the proportioning valve have to be changed, and the lines have to be bled. the only hard part is installing the booster. you have to be either very determined, a contortionist, or a very sick person. i know, i've changed two! get a price from a corvette shop, then see if you want to do it or have it done.
to change to power brakes, a booster has to be installed(of course),the master cylinder, and brake lines to the proportioning valve have to be changed, and the lines have to be bled. the only hard part is installing the booster. you have to be either very determined, a contortionist, or a very sick person. i know, i've changed two! get a price from a corvette shop, then see if you want to do it or have it done.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
If you want a real power brake equipped car add a Hydroboost system. This gives real power and not just a vacuum assist. I drove mine for a while with manual brakes and yes it stopped the car fine with some effort. Now with the hydroboost system you just lay your foot on the pedal and it stops in a hurry. The system purchased can be a little pricey but you can also make up your own from boneyard parts as many here have done. I bought the kit www.hydroboost.com a few years ago and it has provided me with years of good brakes. It is a very complete kit and is an easy bolt on to the manual brake cars.
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
OK. And any suggestion how to install factory vacuum assist?
1. Firewall holes are not in appropriate location - easy - can drill another one
2. Pedal housing has holes in "inappropriate places" - can do it
3. Rod is to short by 0.5 inch - what with that?
4. where to connect the booster rod with brake pedal? Original hole?
....
Is anybody give some suggestions? maybe photos?
1. Firewall holes are not in appropriate location - easy - can drill another one
2. Pedal housing has holes in "inappropriate places" - can do it
3. Rod is to short by 0.5 inch - what with that?
4. where to connect the booster rod with brake pedal? Original hole?
....
Is anybody give some suggestions? maybe photos?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
kk
i don't know what you mean when you say the pedal housing has holes in "inappropriate places"- are you referring to the 4 bolt holes to mount the booster? just drill new 4 new holes for the booster. as far as the rod being 1/2" short, do you mean the pedal push rod or the booster rod that pushes into the m/c? the length of the booster push rod is critical, because if it's too long, the m/c will not release pressure. the pedal push rod clevis should go into the same hole(i never noticed moer than one!).
i don't know what you mean when you say the pedal housing has holes in "inappropriate places"- are you referring to the 4 bolt holes to mount the booster? just drill new 4 new holes for the booster. as far as the rod being 1/2" short, do you mean the pedal push rod or the booster rod that pushes into the m/c? the length of the booster push rod is critical, because if it's too long, the m/c will not release pressure. the pedal push rod clevis should go into the same hole(i never noticed moer than one!).
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks for repply. Drilling holes is easy - will do it, but I'm little bit affraid, that if I'll put the booster in the same hole as I have for factory MC - the booster will be too high. In this position anyhow rod will be too short (pedal will be down a bit - 1 inch dipper than clutch).
The other hole I mentioned was the onle currently switch bracket is installed :-).
Do you maybe have some kind of template how should I drill the firewall for installation purposes?
The other hole I mentioned was the onle currently switch bracket is installed :-).
Do you maybe have some kind of template how should I drill the firewall for installation purposes?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
drill the mounting holes for the booster so that the pedal rod goes thru the original hole. the brake pedal will be lower that the clutch, it should be about level with the gas pedal.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
I have no use for power anything on my car!(Except the eng. of course)
However if I were to add a power assist I would go with the hydroboost. I have never heard a negative comment, and it gives more room in the eng. comp.
However if I were to add a power assist I would go with the hydroboost. I have never heard a negative comment, and it gives more room in the eng. comp.
