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Last week I posted a thread about clutch adjustment, because my new clutch was not adjusting properly. Well... I just read a clutch article in the May edition of Corvette Enthusiast. Who the heck would think that a Corvette does not use a standard Chevy small block clutch! The article states that vette clutches, with bent fingers, use a shorter throwout bearing than regular Chevy clutches with straight fingers. Can anyone shed some light on this? I currently have almost no free play at the top, and barely disengage the clutch at the bottom. This may be my first FUBAR of my car restoration. I went to Jeg's and picked out an 11" clutch package off their web site. I guess it pays to shop at the local NAPA or Autozone. The only good lesson I've learned is how to pull the clutch, which I've already done once. Anyone need a clutch for their Chevelle (cheap) !!!
I used a centerforce clutch that I got on ebay. I think it was for an early camero. I didnt think there was any difference, but I may be wrong. Are you sure everything went in right? disk facing the right way?
Sounds more like a fork pivot ball / throwout bearing mismatch to me - geometry seems way off. I believe you should be OK with the clutch assembly - but I'm sure you will hear otherwise if I am wrong!!.
Sounds more like a fork pivot ball / throwout bearing mismatch to me - geometry seems way off. I believe you should be OK with the clutch assembly - but I'm sure you will hear otherwise if I am wrong!!.
Now I'm confused. It seems like a linkage geometry problem. A narrower throwout bearing sounded logical to correct that. I checked the local Autozone, they list the same clutch and throwout bearing for vettes and other Chevy's. Everything went in smoothly and correctly. I've checked for bent or worn linkage and cross shaft, everything seems good.
Did you adjust the frame side of the z-bar to clutch rod , that should take out some slack.
I don't know what you mean. I adjusted the clutch rod that's below the master cylinder. It is at the end of the rod now. The problem is that I have no free play at the top, and barely get full clutch release when it's fully depressed.
I don't know what you mean. I adjusted the clutch rod that's below the master cylinder. It is at the end of the rod now. The problem is that I have no free play at the top, and barely get full clutch release when it's fully depressed.
After reading this a few times, it sounds like you have a short T/O bearing but might need a long T/O bearing. This would allow you to back off the adjuster, giving you more (longer) throw subsequently releasing the clutch.
if you have the adjusting rod screwed all the way out,
you will have min. distance for clutch release.
screw the adjuster in, to acheive some free play in the release bearing.
69VETT
if you have the adjusting rod screwed all the way out,
you will have min. distance for clutch release.
screw the adjuster in, to acheive some free play in the release bearing.
69VETT
That was how I started out with the new clutch, to give me about 1" of free pedal. At that adjustment, the clutch was not fully releasing when the pedal was at the floor.
After reading this a few times, it sounds like you have a short T/O bearing but might need a long T/O bearing. This would allow you to back off the adjuster, giving you more (longer) throw subsequently releasing the clutch.
This statement could be wrong. The short bearing goes with a bent cone diaphragm pressure plate. This is what you should have unless you have a flat diaphragm pressure plate that uses the long bearing. The correct plate is the bent cone for all V8`s including Vettes and nearly the whole line of GM cars. The long bearing is for 6 cylinder chevys.
This statement could be wrong. The short bearing goes with a bent cone diaphragm pressure plate. This is what you should have unless you have a flat diaphragm pressure plate that uses the long bearing. The correct plate is the bent cone for all V8`s including Vettes and nearly the whole line of GM cars. The long bearing is for 6 cylinder chevys.
I bought it as a set, from Jeg's. I'm sure it's a matched set. I guess I'll pull the tranny and measure everything.
I had the same problem when I had a centerforce clutch installed.
The same problem being: I adjusted the nut to the very end of the upper clutch rod so there was no room for further adjustment, and I still had to push the clutch all the way to the floor to shift gears. I would often hit the bright light switch by mistake.
After much much discussion (check the archives!!!) it was determined that I needed a longer clutch fork pivot ball. GM makes 2 lengths, a short one and a long one. Some folks use an adjustable. Me being bubba opted for a longer clutch rod.
This statement could be wrong. The short bearing goes with a bent cone diaphragm pressure plate. This is what you should have unless you have a flat diaphragm pressure plate that uses the long bearing. The correct plate is the bent cone for all V8`s including Vettes and nearly the whole line of GM cars. The long bearing is for 6 cylinder chevys.
I agree with you, but there are a lot of mysteries here! Not knowing what he has and not knowing what he took out leaves a lot of unknowns! As I originally stated, it is a geometry issue - and likely a pivot ball / T/O bearing mismatch. We're all just throwing darts anyway without being there to see it!
I agree with you, but there are a lot of mysteries here! Not knowing what he has and not knowing what he took out leaves a lot of unknowns! As I originally stated, it is a geometry issue - and likely a pivot ball / T/O bearing mismatch. We're all just throwing darts anyway without being there to see it!
Well not exactly. We know by the section he posted in that it`s a C 3 of some denomination and they all take 11 in clutches except L88`s that is 10.5 or 4 depending on the clutch catalogues. He also ordered it as a set and I see no reason for mismatched parts. I would also guess he looked them over matching the new with the old and would not use strange looking parts. Changing a clutch unless you have a hoist is no picnick, and even with a hoist its not fun. So we not exactly in the dark but do not know if it`s a OE setup or some trick fancy aftermarket stuff....
Thanks for the input guys. I bought an OEM replacement Exedy clutch from Jeg's. 11", 26 spline. PRNDL described it correctly. I have to push the pedal to the floor to get full release, and I have less than 1" of free play in the clutch pedal. The clutch matched the previous one in size. The old TO bearing is 1 1/4". I guess I'll be pulling it apart.