Engine/Tranny Bolt Up
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Paso Robles CA
Engine/Tranny Bolt Up
I am reconnecting my engine and tranny and am having difficulty getting the torque convertor bolted up. I wiggled the convertor and pushed in until basically it went past two line up points. When I attach the tranny body to the block I can not rotate the convertor to line up the holes. I spoke with the guy who rebuild the tranny and he stated the torque convertor should spin freely when the tranny and engine are together. I am now on my third attempt and still can not get the convertor lined up. What am I missing?
scott
scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
It's got to go into the transmission further. Don't try to draw the engine / tranny together with the bolts, the should pretty much slip together. Turn the converter while lifting it up slightly (because it's so heavy) and push it onto the tranny input shaft. Check it with a straight edge across the "bell housing" to make sure it's well below that surface. Once the tranny and engine are mated the torque converter should spin freely and easily slide on the input shaft up to the flexplate.
Keep trying!!! It will go.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Paso Robles CA
Thanks for the help and now for the bad news, maybe. I bolted up the engine and tranny by lining up the torque convertor. When the engine/tranny were together the torque convertor was snug on the flywheel and could be moved with some assistance of a screw driver. Patience not being one of my virtues I installed the engine/tranny combo last night. Will I be able to manuever the convertor with the engine in place or do I need to pull them? Man this one hurts I (not as bad as a torn up tranny) but I already hooked up several the other items. Will do the right thing though.
scott
scott
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Streator Illinois
It's got to go into the transmission further. Don't try to draw the engine / tranny together with the bolts, the should pretty much slip together. Turn the converter while lifting it up slightly (because it's so heavy) and push it onto the tranny input shaft. Check it with a straight edge across the "bell housing" to make sure it's well below that surface. Once the tranny and engine are mated the torque converter should spin freely and easily slide on the input shaft up to the flexplate.
Yes, the converter can appear to be all the way onto the input shaft when it is not. If you rotate the converter while pushing towards the rear until the ears engage the trans pump, you will feel it move back another 1/4 to 1/2 inch and then it is completely installed.
There is a reason why they say patience is a virtue. On this type of work it is invaluable. Hope you have not damaged anything. If it were me, I'd remove everything and start over just to make sure.
Also, always a good idea to use Locktite on the converter to flexplate bolts. New good quality bolts are a good idea too.
Terry
Last edited by tnovot; Jul 12, 2008 at 09:12 PM. Reason: typo
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Yes, the converter can appear to be all the way onto the input shaft when it is not. If you rotate the converter while pushing towards the rear until the ears engage the trans pump, you will feel it move back another 1/4 to 1/2 inch and then it is completely installed.
There is a reason why they say patience is a virtue. On this type of work it is invaluable. Hope you have not damaged anything. If it were me, I'd remove everything and start over just to make sure.
Also, always a good idea to use Locktite on the converter to flexplate bolts. New good quality bolts are a good idea too.
Terry
There is a reason why they say patience is a virtue. On this type of work it is invaluable. Hope you have not damaged anything. If it were me, I'd remove everything and start over just to make sure.
Also, always a good idea to use Locktite on the converter to flexplate bolts. New good quality bolts are a good idea too.
Terry
best of luck....you have to spin hell outta that converter and wiggle it around quite a bit as it flops around a bit to get it seated onto the front pump....it's those slots on the converter that intersect with pump tabs and forcing that rotor back into the pump housing will scarr up a machined aluminum surface and then it's toast....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Paso Robles CA
Okay thanks again and I hope everyone has patience with me. I just want to be clear with a couple of comments earlier. I did use the straight edge method and the convertor was well behind the front edge of the tranny housing. When I installed the tranny to the engine there was less than 1/8" when the convertor touched the flywheel and the block and tranny housing mated up. I did work the convertor several times onto the input shaft several times and felt two distinct line up's (ie convertor slid towards rear of tranny after wiggling and turning). Question/comment - the slot on the convertor is about 3/4" in depth can it not be properly aligned for the last 1/16"? I know I am probably trying to justify my own stupidity but am not looking forward to pulling the engine/tranny back out again. What is the last alignment of the convertor to tranny and how far to from the end is it? Is the front pump alignment within the last 1/8"? Thanks for everyones patience I want to do this right but don't want to pull the engine/tranny unnecessarily (as if puling them for a radiator leak wasn't unnecessary). 
scott
scott
