Yes, that helps Brent, thanks
I have the 1W resister and have located a replacement alternator, so tomorrow I'll dig into this and go from there. According to the diagram from Parts America I should be able to do the wiring all from under the hood(rather than under the dash ) & run a #8 wire from the alt to the starter while I'm at it like I should have done in the first place.
I'll post back with the results

 

Anyone know what the different is between a CS130 and CS130D alternator is? I'm interested in upgrading to a CS alternator this fall when I install a dual electric fan system.

 

I recently bought a Painless Wiring #30707 Pigtail for CS130/144 alternators.
The kit includes a 82 Ohms / 5 Watts resistor that you must use if you don't have a light bulb indicator. The size of this resistance is about 3/8" diameter and 1" length. This is much bigger than a 1/2W resistor, but it is also much stronger and much reliable.
Actually, this resistor has the same resistance value as a light bulb ( it absorbs about 2 Watts --> 12V x 12V / 82 = 1,75 W ).

For the moment, it works great and the resistor stays cool enough

 

Here's a link where you will see the difference between CS130 & CS130D alternators...

http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Altern...html#Section_3

 

OK, problem solved & here's how I did it

Here is the orange wire w/ fusible link and the brown/white wires that originally went to the external regulator
[IMG][/IMG]

Here's a fuzzy pic(didn't catch it till I downloaded it from my camera) of the 330 ohm 1W resistor and the plug for the CS130
[IMG][/IMG]

Soldered the orange wire from the car to the red on the plug. After thoroughly cleaning the ends of the resistor(I used 400 sandpaper), the resistor is soldered to the wire marked "L" on the plug. The other end goes to the brown/white stripe wire on the car. For some reason the solder wouldn't take to the brown wire, so I crimped it. Should be OK, as all the connectors on these cars are crimped from the factory anyway.
[IMG][/IMG]

Soldered (and crimped) ends are then shrink-tubed
[IMG][/IMG]

I wrapped the wiring with electrical tape and secured the connections to the CS130. Note the resistor running in parallel with the fusible link. I left the resistor uncovered for better heat dissapation
[IMG][/IMG]

All done! The link/resistor are visible because of the camera flash, otherwise you have to really look to even notice they are there
[IMG][/IMG]

Fire'd her up & noticed the amp gauge swig to the right, then slowly move into its current position. Turned on the lights and a few other items, not even a blip. Turned on the stereo & had to really crank it to see the needle even budge. Hope this is a good sign!
[IMG][/IMG]


Hooked up a voltmeter and was rewarded with a good 14 volts! The voltage would wander between 14.3-14.4, nothing to be alarmed over
[IMG][/IMG]

So that's how I fixed the problem. This should work on other 68's as well, although I'm sure most of you already knew better than to install an alternator without having the proper resistance in the line

If I missed anything, feel free to point it out. In the meantime, I'm having another beer

Thanks to MN-Brent, mrvette, Durango_boy(your the one that got me started on this swap ) & everyone else for your help and input

 

You did great...very nice work. The one thing I will mention is that the large black cylinder on the wire isn't the actual fusible link...it's the section of wire FROM that black cylinder to the termination at the end. That cylinder is just where the fusible link starts.

 

Thanks Matt

All these years I thought that was the actual link....guess one learns something new every day

 

haha....success, it werks...and looks right too....

the solder did not take to that dark wire because it's steel...hard to solder too, it's a cheep form of resistor wire for GM to use...

well I hear it's steel anyway...never bothered to check with magnet, come think of it.....

but hey man....case closed....

NOW one thing I would recommend to everyone....

I don't care what the factory did on these sharks....IF you have anything else but a super smooth operating engine, you need to reroute the wires from the alt, to the intake mani, to the back side of the engine and then firewall out to the fender in a large loop....up a size too for the main power wire...

that happens is the wires get tired and break off from fatigue loading at the alt power stud primarily....but you see I don' t want questions as to just HOW I specifically know this....

so don't ask, it cost me a computer and CALPAK some years ago....damnit, Just DAMNIT!!!

:o

 

I thought there was something peculiar about that brown wire, it's a single strand, and poked right into my finger(copper usually bends first). That woke me right up.....

 

Glad I could be of assistance. Finally got my vette back on the road today after 4 months of jackstands. Felt real good.....

B...

 

I know exactly how you feel B, my 68 spent most of last Aug-Sept on stands with brake issues, mostly waiting on parts, returning defective ones, etc...but got the problems fixed in time for some cool autumn cruising!