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Is there a hard a fast rule to use when selecting a replacement cam, (capable of producing more hp) or is it pretty much a matter of personal choice. The lobe size, grind, duration, is all Greek to me. I just want to boost hp and still have a comfortable driver. [IMG][/IMG] :crazy:
Bill
Wes:
You really need to take into consideration your current setup. Since you still want to have a comfortable cruiser I wouldn't recommend going with a "hot" cam. Basically the duration is the amount of time the valves are kept open and your lift is how far the valves open. What is your current setup? I would say either the:
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 262
OR
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 256
This is a matter of preference but I think a lot of people like a cam around 210 to 215 duration at .050 and a lift of around .450 to .470 for some more Hp out of a stock L48 motor. I'm sure more will chime in on this subject. A dual plane intake is all you need for this combo. Refering to your other post
Wes:
You have a 3.36 rear end. You have pretty much the same setup as I do. I would say go with an Edelbrock Performer Intake (2101) if your emission laws allow. I am currently running the Comp Cams High Energy 268 which is very similar to the Xtreme Energy 262. I personally wish I would have gone with a slightly larger cam. I would go with the Comp Cams Extreme Energy 268 cam.
The Edelbrock Intake and the Comp Cam should put you around 275-300HP.
Thanks guys...
I like Ganeys suggestion of a savings on the valve springs ( use over)
save $$$
Bence...What are you lacking with the 268 that you feel the XE 268 will give you?? How is the idle? Are you making enough vaccum? Do you use the upper end of the RPMs other than when on the strip?
Bill
My New Year's present to Ganey LOL. Wes, heed Ganey's words. He and others recommended the Comp 260H to me (I have an auto), Went with it and am glad I did.....you can see by my sig what little else I have done.....The thing just PULLS now compared a stock L-48.....no spring change for me either.....ENJOY!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :seeya :flag As an afterthought, a member of the Forum here Desk Dynoed mine at 275HP....
Wes,
Change your springs. They are fairly cheap, since you should probably pull the old springs to replace the valve stem seals on an older high mileage engine. Valve springs do loose their spring after a number of years or miles of running. You don't need to go with expensive high lift springs, GM Z-28 springs are cheap and should drop right in.
You should replace your timing set if you go to the trouble of replacing the cam.
By the way I'm in the process of putting in an XE262 in my car.
The XE262 is a good choice. It has more torque than the XE268, so for around town the 262 is a good choice. Mine just comes alive everytime I kick it. Maybe you ougth to think about a 650 Speed Demon?
Ganey, I heard you were the man on cam selection!! I have a "77 stock L-48, automatic with Eldebrock 2101 intake and an Eldebrock carb. :confused: I like the sound of a stock 350ci / 350hp cam, but don't know the specs. Which of the Comp cams would be close to this or a little better LICK without changing heads, torque converter, etc.? Or should I just go with the 350 cam?
Thanks guys...I like Ganeys suggestion of a savings on the valve springs ( use over) save $$$.....Bill
I think what Ganey was recommending was that you could use stock (spec'd)valve springs - not reusing the old springs. If you want to see the best performance after installing that new cam, clean up the heads, get a valve job (probably needs it by now), and get new springs, unless you plan on replacing the heads.
I agree with smokehouse 69, if current compression is good and you don't want to go to expense of pulling the heads (no need to do so, really), I strongly recommend that you change out valve springs, and install new valve guide/stem seals. I installed the Z-28 springs, and they were noticeably stonger than the tired, 90,000 mile stock springs I removed.
New springs, seals and locks should only set you back about $60 to $70.
From: WANTED: '68 rear valance with b/u light assemblies IM, e-mail, or PM me here. Thanks!
Re: Cam Selection (wes76)
One cam profile that is often overlooked around here is the tight duration/high lift profile. If you don't spin the motor above 5000 rpm very often but want the feel of a BB then go with this concept. It is very possible and easy to get 420+ ft/lbs. of torque from a SB with a tight duration/high lift profile. If interested ask your cam manufacturer about custom grinds.
I have one more thing to add here... The stated cam profile will yield a torque curve as flat as Oklahoma, and considering torque and HP are = @ 5252 rpm...
Expect peak HP around 4800 and torque around 3200.
Thanks All...
I will definitely replace springs and associated parts along with checking for burned valves etc. I am also replacing timing gear and water pump while in there.
Some simple specs. are not everything, it's the area under the curve. Harvey Crane of Crane Cams promoted the duration at .050 for comparison since the advertised duration was getting out of hand. I.E. a 290 may have less than a 268 for example. 350 HP- 221/221 & .447/.447 114LS Crane has been selling it since it was popular years ago. Crane gives the rpm range as 2200-5200.
You would probably like a newer cam better. If you went up 1 step on the stock L-48 cam that would be similar to Edel. Performer 2102 cam "matched" to what- a heavy Chevy- not a Corvette. Up another step is Comp Cams 260H/XE256 (110LS) (idle-5200). This will work w/ stock auto./gears.
If you go up another step to Comp Cams 268H/XE262 (110LS) then you can expect if your engine is tired for it to drag up to about 3000 & then go.